Author Topic: Steep beach break waves  (Read 2112 times)

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Offline jboosted92

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Re: Steep beach break waves
« Reply #15 on: February 25, 2017, 05:16:45 PM »
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  • UPDATE!!   


    Ok, sort of long post with mixed in questions. Would appreciate responses to them!




    Before my session today (3 hours Chest high, relatively clean) . i wrote down and (Crammed) these items into my brain


    1. Chin Down, when paddling into wave
    2. Legs up ( try kicking if necessary. Ensure feet are together consistently *Feet Together, i believe i may have been slacking in this and had my feet wider and my knees)
    3. Catch the wave a bit later....less paddles...Always have eye on the wave.
    4. Wave Selection. Be picky, only take off on waves where im near the power pocket or on larger ones, close enough
    5. Extra Paddle even once caught.
    6. Angle when necessary, especially if wave looked like a peeler ( angled wave out of pocket, as oppose to typical closeout)
    7. look down the line


    Sooo my results of this...


    1. Definitely rewarded. Caught more waves than my last session.
    2. Conditions were good. Pre-Low tide, some waves got sloppy with minimal peak, so i tried not to waste my energy.
    3. Looking down the line. I think i finally have this drilled home. The only time i caught my self looking down, was if during my pop up i was caught on the lip, trying to "press it down"... otherwise my head was always looking down the line or back to see if someone inside
    4. Kicking = kicking ensured my feet where together ( kind of hard to kick with knees apart), i feel this helped transfer weight forward as well..


     


    QUESTIONS:


    1. Chin down. THis may sound like a dumb question, but i felt sometimes when i was chin down and powering into the wave, there was a ton of water moving around I was then blinded by the water..... this common? maybe i was too far up on board regardless? Other guys in the break today, "appeared" to not have this issue"
    2. Being a beach break as everyone noted....not all waves the same...one second you can catch a wave at Spot X, with 5-6 paddles, the Next at Spot Y, with 2 paddles.... other than experience and wave watching, any tips on this?
    3. Paddling : I dont think im the best in the world, but im Strong as F, i paddle hard as SH1t....but im wondering if im not as" effcient" as others
    4. Time in water: When im not surfing, im training... I feel like Jello arms on "fair/good" days come at about Hour 3-4, depending on day. I would like to be able to be in the water 5-6... is 3-4 hours normal? good for now? improvable?