Author Topic: One step up and two steps back....  (Read 1667 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Offline Looseness

  • Local Access
  • Local Hero (Platinum)
  • ***
  • Posts: 5702
  • Liked: 86
  • Soft hated: 3
  • Karma: +256/-232
  • OS:
  • Windows XP Windows XP
  • Browser:
  • Firefox 3.5.6 Firefox 3.5.6
    • View Profile
Re: One step up and two steps back....
« Reply #15 on: March 25, 2010, 11:58:31 AM »
  • Go Up
  • Go Down
  • listen to music, LOUD FARKING ROCK AND ROLL MUSIC, through good headphones or good speakers before you go out so that you are fully amped. Smack yourself in the face/head a few times while listening, maybe pound your chest a little.
    This stuff will hopefully quiet all the intellectualization that's going on and you will run up the the beach and want to attack the freaking surf rather than THINKING about stuff.

    you can do all your homework on land. leave it there and paddle out to surf. 

    PS I have sucky sessions, can't find a rhythm, surf with people that are WAY better than me, have slumps too. 
    « Last Edit: March 25, 2010, 12:01:30 PM by Looseness »
    It's no better to be safe than sorry....

    Offline rockyveiga

    • Regular (Silver)
    • ***
    • Posts: 325
    • Liked: 5
    • Soft hated: 0
    • Karma: +0/-0
    • OS:
    • Mac OS X 10.5.8 Mac OS X 10.5.8
    • Browser:
    • Safari 4.0.5 Safari 4.0.5
      • AOL Instant Messenger - rockyveiga
      • View Profile
    Re: One step up and two steps back....
    « Reply #16 on: March 25, 2010, 12:08:32 PM »
  • Go Up
  • Go Down
  • maybe pound your chest a little.


    this is true... chest pumps are proven to make things better
    I Play Fa Keeps!

    Offline Jack Crank

    • Local (Gold)
    • ****
    • Posts: 738
    • Liked: 25
    • Soft hated: 4
    • Karma: +1/-0
    • OS:
    • Mac OS X 10.5 Mac OS X 10.5
    • Browser:
    • Firefox 3.6.2 Firefox 3.6.2
      • View Profile
      • No Gods, No Vegetables
      • Email
    Re: One step up and two steps back....
    « Reply #17 on: March 25, 2010, 05:04:12 PM »
  • Go Up
  • Go Down
  • listen to music, LOUD FARKING ROCK AND ROLL MUSIC, through good headphones or good speakers before you go out so that you are fully amped. Smack yourself in the face/head a few times while listening, maybe pound your chest a little.
    This stuff will hopefully quiet all the intellectualization that's going on and you will run up the the beach and want to attack the freaking surf rather than THINKING about stuff.

    you can do all your homework on land. leave it there and paddle out to surf. 

    PS I have sucky sessions, can't find a rhythm, surf with people that are WAY better than me, have slumps too.

    Wise f'in words.

    Offline frroK

    • Local Access
    • Local Hero (Platinum)
    • ***
    • Posts: 13518
    • Liked: 17
    • Soft hated: 0
    • Karma: +651/-629
    • OS:
    • Windows XP Windows XP
    • Browser:
    • Internet Explorer 8.0 Internet Explorer 8.0
      • AOL Instant Messenger - frrok
      • View Profile
    Re: One step up and two steps back....
    « Reply #18 on: March 26, 2010, 10:41:02 AM »
  • Go Up
  • Go Down
  • whatver you do, be careful of the last song you heard in a rush from your car on the radio or something... the last thing you want is to have Rod Stewart in your head while your trying to drop into some top-to-bottoms....  (not that rod stewart is bad, its not that condusive to "charging" LOL)
     
    I usually dont like to listen anything before i paddle out.. what if Im listening to Agnostic Front or some other hardcore band, I'd want to stab people and like break things...

    Offline rockyveiga

    • Regular (Silver)
    • ***
    • Posts: 325
    • Liked: 5
    • Soft hated: 0
    • Karma: +0/-0
    • OS:
    • Mac OS X 10.5.8 Mac OS X 10.5.8
    • Browser:
    • Safari 4.0.5 Safari 4.0.5
      • AOL Instant Messenger - rockyveiga
      • View Profile
    Re: One step up and two steps back....
    « Reply #19 on: March 26, 2010, 10:48:34 AM »
  • Go Up
  • Go Down
  • whatver you do, be careful of the last song you heard in a rush from your car on the radio or something... the last thing you want is to have Rod Stewart in your head while your trying to drop into some top-to-bottoms....  (not that rod stewart is bad, its not that condusive to "charging" LOL)
     
    I usually dont like to listen anything before i paddle out.. what if Im listening to Agnostic Front or some other hardcore band, I'd want to stab people and like break things...


    maybe start by break the death sticks outta there... hah
    I Play Fa Keeps!

    Offline Looseness

    • Local Access
    • Local Hero (Platinum)
    • ***
    • Posts: 5702
    • Liked: 86
    • Soft hated: 3
    • Karma: +256/-232
    • OS:
    • Windows XP Windows XP
    • Browser:
    • Firefox 3.5.6 Firefox 3.5.6
      • View Profile
    Re: One step up and two steps back....
    « Reply #20 on: March 26, 2010, 12:18:11 PM »
  • Go Up
  • Go Down
  • whatver you do, be careful of the last song you heard in a rush from your car on the radio or something... the last thing you want is to have Rod Stewart in your head while your trying to drop into some top-to-bottoms....  (not that rod stewart is bad, its not that condusive to "charging" LOL)
     
    I usually dont like to listen anything before i paddle out.. what if Im listening to Agnostic Front or some other hardcore band, I'd want to stab people and like break things...

    HAHAHAHA.... yeah you want to choose your music well. I was riding with AJ in NJ one time and he had on Phish as we pulled up to paddle out.....I was all "DUDE, there is no way i'm paddling out with this in my head, PLEASE put something else on  for a minute or two". Nothing against Phish other than I can't stand them....
    It's no better to be safe than sorry....

    Offline Shacky

    • Global Moderator
    • Local Hero (Platinum)
    • *****
    • Posts: 6436
    • Liked: 87
    • Soft hated: 3
    • Karma: +372/-328
    • OS:
    • Windows XP Windows XP
    • Browser:
    • Internet Explorer 7.0 Internet Explorer 7.0
      • AOL Instant Messenger - mcfloater
      • View Profile
      • CONDO
    Re: One step up and two steps back....
    « Reply #21 on: March 26, 2010, 01:35:07 PM »
  • Go Up
  • Go Down
  • classic!!!!!
     
     
    You can't stop the waves, but you can learn to surf.

    http://www.condotheband.com

    Offline jammy

    • Local Access
    • Local Hero (Platinum)
    • ***
    • Posts: 2507
    • Liked: 51
    • Soft hated: 0
    • Karma: +224/-162
    • OS:
    • Mac OS X 10.5 Mac OS X 10.5
    • Browser:
    • Firefox 3.6.2 Firefox 3.6.2
      • View Profile
    Re: One step up and two steps back....
    « Reply #22 on: March 26, 2010, 02:07:01 PM »
  • Go Up
  • Go Down
  • i thought loose was joking.
     
     my favorite favorite song to get pumped up is...
    "Whenever I Call You Friend " Stevie Nicks & Kenny Loggins
    NLITB

    Offline ankleslapper

    • Wahine
    • Local Hero (Platinum)
    • ***
    • Posts: 1366
    • Liked: 30
    • Soft hated: 0
    • Karma: +3/-3
    • OS:
    • Mac OS X 10.6.2 Mac OS X 10.6.2
    • Browser:
    • Safari 4.0.5 Safari 4.0.5
      • View Profile
    Re: One step up and two steps back....
    « Reply #23 on: March 26, 2010, 03:27:52 PM »
  • Go Up
  • Go Down
  • jammy, i'm seeing last summer's classic fish/boogie board session set to that in slow-mo and cracking up.
    the A is a small price to pay

    Offline jammy

    • Local Access
    • Local Hero (Platinum)
    • ***
    • Posts: 2507
    • Liked: 51
    • Soft hated: 0
    • Karma: +224/-162
    • OS:
    • Mac OS X 10.5 Mac OS X 10.5
    • Browser:
    • Firefox 3.6.2 Firefox 3.6.2
      • View Profile
    Re: One step up and two steps back....
    « Reply #24 on: March 26, 2010, 03:37:59 PM »
  • Go Up
  • Go Down
  • i'm revising it for the banjo. i'm obsessed. you should see my little dance to it too. ;D
    NLITB

    jscottk

    • Guest
    Re: One step up and two steps back....
    « Reply #25 on: March 26, 2010, 04:55:08 PM »
  • Go Up
  • Go Down
  • AAaaaahh the White Witch...I wonder if Kenny Loggins banged her?

    Offline money4coffeeman

    • Local Access
    • Local Hero (Platinum)
    • ***
    • Posts: 1132
    • Liked: 124
    • Soft hated: 0
    • Karma: +8/-3
    • OS:
    • Windows 7 Windows 7
    • Browser:
    • Internet Explorer 8.0 Internet Explorer 8.0
      • View Profile
    Re: One step up and two steps back....
    « Reply #26 on: March 26, 2010, 05:58:30 PM »
  • Go Up
  • Go Down
  • Nice, onefin- Felipe is a class act, I get the pleasure of surfing with him from time to time. Cool that he was that way with ya.
     
    I think even is a bad session you can always find one little thing that went right.  I no this is an odd reference but I surfed Waimea one time and had the miserable luck of getting obliterated on the drop and snapping my leash plug leading to an awful swim to the beach that seemed to take hours.  It was only my second wave of the day and the first wave was a giant  shoulder hop that a wheelchair bound SUPer would have made.  I got to the beach, barely and crawled back to my stupid shitty truck completely defeated and feeling like quite the chump.  I went to Foodland to drown my misery in a 40 oz of Mickeys and some Donuts(like i didnt already have enough donuts).  As I was sitting at Three Tables watching the back of the waves unload at the Bay I started to replay the shitfuck session that just went down, yep it was awful as I remember it, I did nothing right and I should have known better than to try and take off where I did on the second wave, as a matter of fact I did know better which made me feel even worse.  But...


    Well as I rewound the session again going all the way back to walking down the beach to paddle out by myself it dawned on me, there was a breakthrough in the session that had not occurred to me.  And this wasnt just one breakthrough but a monumental shift in my approach to surfing.  I paddled out by myself, yep, no buddy no other guys on the beach, no waiting for a wiser older sage mysto like person to tell me where best to paddle out, just me solo.  Not to say there wasnt a handful of guys already on it but this was the first time I wanted to surf the Bay and regardless if I could find someone to join me or not  I was farking on it.  Than there was the paddle out, slightly mistimed as I raced down the slope of the beach with the backwash heading out to sea I jumped on my board and started paddling as hard as I could.  Ha 20 feet into it and Im staring into 10 ft shorebreak on a 10'1 gun, gosh Im fucked bailing not an option, I go for a hail mary duckdive that bearly feels like it submerses the board but sure as brown trout it worked.  I duckdove waimea shorebreak on a 10'1 gun and didnt get killed, how the hell did I do that?  And when I had snapped the plug and I was stuck out there with no board and an really crappy swim ahead of me, Felipe Pomar paddled up to me and asked if I needed help and if I knew how to get in, and I was able to say probably for the first time that I didnt need help and that I did actually know how to get in and that I better get swimming if I know whats good for me.  And just like that I went from Droopy Dog to Top Cat, I successfully paddled out solo through hell shorebreak only to get my ass handed to me, rip the leash plug out and send me scurrying/crawling back up the beach tail between my legs and I could not have been more stoked.  From then on, if I found a wave I was on it where as before I would run around and try to find someone to go with me and make sure they had tested the waters previously, now it was different and life changing, and it was good.


    I refuse to proofread this post so I apologize for misspellings and run-on sentences, I need more cafe.

    Offline onefinookas

    • Local Access
    • Local Hero (Platinum)
    • ***
    • Posts: 7576
    • Liked: 322
    • Soft hated: 12
    • Karma: +212/-220
    • OS:
    • Mac OS X 10.5.8 Mac OS X 10.5.8
    • Browser:
    • Safari 4.0.3 Safari 4.0.3
      • View Profile
      • Email
    Re: One step up and two steps back....
    « Reply #27 on: March 27, 2010, 01:15:36 AM »
  • Go Up
  • Go Down
  • I knew Felipe and more so Ricardo through Strong Current Surf Shop, at least a little bit.  I was very stoked that Felipe at least gave me the once over to make sure I was ok, Im sure the wipeout looked horrible but it felt ok.  Which reminds me even a bad wipeout where you survive unscathed outside of a possibly bruised ego should count as a step forward.  After a horrible wipeout I will sometimes be more stoked on that and remember it more than any landed air or deep pit.  I remember one session last year where I got a bunch of good ones but than got ragdolled to bitchslap which led to being held down and dragged across the outside of the jetty in LB, I think Dorado saw the whole thing or at least the end, it was the worst beatin I had in years but all in all I was OK, I still remember it.  But I digress cuz its late, the Pomars rico suave Peruvian playboys with balls of steel.  I remember when the owner of Strong Current went to Peru with the Pomar's and several gringo's, upon his return from the trip he said he snapped all his Brewer Guns at Kon Tiki and had not slep a single night until the plane trip back to HI.  Pomars...Legends.
    "paddleboarding is bullshlt, where's my wine" anonymous

    Offline Dorado

    • Local Access
    • Local Hero (Platinum)
    • ***
    • Posts: 4076
    • Liked: 284
    • Soft hated: 24
    • Karma: +28/-95
    • OS:
    • Windows XP Windows XP
    • Browser:
    • Internet Explorer 7.0 Internet Explorer 7.0
      • View Profile
    Re: One step up and two steps back....
    « Reply #28 on: March 27, 2010, 01:11:53 PM »
  • Go Up
  • Go Down
  • Surfed a decent amount of what we consider big days around here in the water with Justin and would have to say about the only time I saw him a bit shaken was that Fri of Nor Ida . In all fairness that morning was not too many takers in LB besides , Onefin, myself , Skudin , Marty Brull , Gerry and his boy the Nassau cops , Bal stack . We all got out the water about the same time which was right around the time of Onefins beating to hold down when the wind went up a notch to rediculous . But as he mentioned im sure paddled out a few hrs later , the ocean has that way of humbling us , the key being how you handle the humiliating moments which we all have and will continue to have

    Offline Shacky

    • Global Moderator
    • Local Hero (Platinum)
    • *****
    • Posts: 6436
    • Liked: 87
    • Soft hated: 3
    • Karma: +372/-328
    • OS:
    • Mac OS X 10.4.11 Mac OS X 10.4.11
    • Browser:
    • Safari 4.0.3 Safari 4.0.3
      • AOL Instant Messenger - mcfloater
      • View Profile
      • CONDO
    Re: One step up and two steps back....
    « Reply #29 on: March 27, 2010, 04:07:32 PM »
  • Go Up
  • Go Down
  • As Looseness says, "it's the ocean, things happen."
    You can't stop the waves, but you can learn to surf.

    http://www.condotheband.com