[ez_ed]

So this evening I went out at smallish Alii's for a get wet session. I score 3 or 4 set waves and walk the board, throw around a cutback or 2 and foam climb a few for 150 yard rides to the beach and "block" a few for my little man(who caught some near double O waves for him) and then just completely flail and kook out worse than a day 1 softboarding kook on one wave, nearly decapitating some Japanese tourist surfer chick in the process. After profusely apologizing, I paddled out and proceeded to catch a few more and ride them pretty smoothly, regaining some semblance of dignity.
I'm sure the Japanese surfer girl must have thought I intentionally shot my board at her after she saw that I could actually surf with some degree of competence.
It's very strange that after all these years of riding waves that I could still completely spaz out and fail so incredibly on a random small wave. Just a reminder that surfing(like life) will leave you scratching your head from time to time.

[thanks_table]

Ha- I think we've all experienced something like that. Some kind of mental distraction is usually the culprit...


 It's easy to forget how complicated surfing is when you've been doing it regularly for years, and I could see somebody tossing themselves into a drop-in in the middle of some kind of deep unrelated contemplation (which is super common when floating out in a quiet lineup), and then suddenly being like "WAIT WTF AM I IN THE MIDDLE OF DOING?"

[SeaCliff]

So this evening I went out at smallish Alii's for a get wet session. I score 3 or 4 set waves and walk the board, throw around a cutback or 2 and foam climb a few for 150 yard rides to the beach and "block" a few for my little man(who caught some near double O waves for him) and then just completely flail and kook out worse than a day 1 softboarding kook on one wave, nearly decapitating some Japanese tourist surfer chick in the process. After profusely apologizing, I paddled out and proceeded to catch a few more and ride them pretty smoothly, regaining some semblance of dignity.
I'm sure the Japanese surfer girl must have thought I intentionally shot my board at her after she saw that I could actually surf with some degree of competence.
It's very strange that after all these years of riding waves that I could still completely spaz out and fail so incredibly on a random small wave. Just a reminder that surfing(like life) will leave you scratching your head from time to time.

Man, oh man do I feel - and experience - your pain at times. Been there for sure. I had one of those days the other day, except that it was the other way around - it wasn't all good and one bad, it was all bad and one good. For whatever reason, I couldn't catch a cold, let alone a wave. In 2 hours, I had one decent wave, very late in the session. For me, with such little time in the surf since the storm, I just chalked the day up as the equivalent of the first day of Spring training - hopefully better days ahead as I shake the rust off. Amazing how humbling the ocean (and surfing) can be, isn't it?

[ez_ed]

Yesterday was pretty big out and a bit gusty. Was sharing the set waves with my SUP friend who was paddling into some fairly solid chunkers. I caught an outside roping walled up left almost to the jetty wall(if you know Alii's you know these are rare treats) and noticed the SUP drifting unmanned and heading for a death sentence against the rocks. I cutback and ride within a few yards of the wall, save the board and paddle it back out to the SUPer who was doing a survival swim in and passed it off to him.
I made the long paddle back out and caught another decent set wave before coming in.
As I walked up the beach to the shower, I notice the same Japanese girls with a very confused expression.    Now I KNOW they must think I shot my board at 'em.
Proud to be a kook.

[money4coffeeman]

bully............

[little_nasty]

haha - i know this feeling really well.  i did something very similar at gas chambers some years back - kooked out, but probably appeared to shoot my board at this surfer gal in the lineup.  I'm pretty sure she thought i did it on purpose.  felt sooo bad!

[ez_ed]

bully............

http://pullingin.com/page/chronics-bully-model-surfboards-is-a-big-boys-paryer-answred


My next board?

[money4coffeeman]

the way you were belly achin' about being sore after that day hike, I think youre ready for a walden pop-out
Quote of the day " Is this called hiking? Its like.. just walking, right?"- N   

[ez_ed]

Haha. I think i'd actually dig one of those Walden popouts, Micks. Was having fun on the rental 9'6" NSP and the 8' Wavestorm so...why not?
Heading out NOW with the Brewer/Bonz to get the last remnants of Avs! Cheeee!