Author Topic: Inspitration  (Read 451 times)

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Offline ez_ed

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Inspitration
« on: March 18, 2010, 08:44:07 PM »
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  • Was out at Pinballs at double overhead(surfline called it 10-12+ and local call was 6-8') and breaking out on the boil(damn near smaller Waimea) and caught some solid ones while sharing the outside peak with just one other guy who seemed pretty competent and comfortable out there. We get to talking and it turns out the guy has only been surfing for THREE YEARS!
    I thought he was saying he's only surfed the North Shore for 3 years or Waimea for 3 years but, upon further clarification, he's been surfing 3 years PERIOD. He told me he's paddled into 18' Hawaiian scale and I have no every reason to believe he has.
    Inspiring.

    Offline SeaCliff

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    Re: Inspitration
    « Reply #1 on: March 18, 2010, 08:48:01 PM »
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  • Sigh.

    Inspiring for sure - but on the other hand, I've thought this many, many times: For the amount of time I've spent in the water, I have an embarrassingly small skill set. Very def envious of the naturally gifted!
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    Offline ez_ed

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    Re: Inspitration
    « Reply #2 on: March 18, 2010, 11:02:06 PM »
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  • I'm guessing the guy isn't slaying waist high surf on a shortboard or perching himself up on the nose at Chuns but he figured out how to lineup a tricky spot, paddle in, pop up and drop into some solid ones. Most pretty good surfers I know would pass on yesterday's session for a more "user friendly" spot. I met a guy who claims to only have been skating for 4 months who drops in on a 6 ft. section and can carve respectably at the park so.....
    "Live like you're dying."