Bride-of-Psycho paddled out on my other longboard & tried to chil & get used to being back in the water from Her Loooooooong hiatus. ( for those that dont know her story) She was at a place called Tacones in PR & got drilled on a pretty heavy day, BBing with us & got her fin stuck in the reef after getting crushed on a nasty set, she got effed up rolling all over the reef once the fin finally broke & she nearly drowned. I couldnt find her & I about lost my mind that day & when she popped up in the white wash I watched her gasping for air & getting drilled by the sets rolling onto the reef directly where she was cought. She didnt go back in the water after that for almost a year & a half. Very psychological. she couldnt even look at the waves if they were bigger than a waste high day. She didnt even swim she was so tramatized & for the last month or so she has watched us surf & she started getting the bug back. She paddled out on a longboard just to float out in the water & try to get over some fear but it was a lil bigger than she wanted it to be with waste high sets bouncing her around but she did it anyway.
She was really nervouse & just chillin past the line up out of everyones way. NYHC found a lil red Balloon & paddled it out to her. That was a nice jesture & she felt like she had everyones support. Then about a month later she got back on her Boog & had a great time in some waste high shore break with a few of us & then it changed, she was all stoked & wanting to get back in again. Saturday, she paddles out on a longboard with us & it was a nice small but clean day & I pushed her into the 1rst wave comming her way. She didnt quite understand where to be on the board so she kinda pearled a lil. I showed her once where to go & she was all set, next wave I gave a her a lil shove into the wave, she paddled & I saw her arch her back, slide up & wahlah! She pops up & rides the wave on her 1rst shot of longboarding! after that she cought about 4 more 2 with out help from me pushing her in, yesterday, it was choppy, way to overcrowded for a knee to thigh high day & she wwent it anyway. Paddles the slop on her own & pops on up like she was ridin a bike. she cought a few waves & then got out.
I asked her where ya going? she says, " I gotta quite while Im ahead." she was doing so well so I say hey come on back out its fun & she says, "All I hear is you guys getting frustrated by the crowds, yelling at people & coming out of the water with stories of Kooks. I just had a really good time & rode some really fun waves, I dont wanna come out of the water ever saying Uhg, this sucks, It took me a year & a half to get back in here, i dont want anything negetive to screw that up. Im so stoked right now!"
Her wisdom floored me, I just gave her a big ole kiss & said how proud I was of her. You really can learn something from a Kook with a reeeeaaaaaalllly nice butt.
