Author Topic: Surfing can save your ass.  (Read 2270 times)

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Offline ez_ed

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Surfing can save your ass.
« on: October 24, 2014, 12:26:50 PM »
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  • Wow. It's been a long time since I've felt compelled to share a story of stoke. Life gets really hard. Harder than I ever would have realized until I was the one in the ringer. Personal travails and haunting memories can truly shake the life(or at least the zest) out of tou. In the end, it's just you and a few choice people who are truly "go to"
    But there is another source of hope. My backyard. After surfing for the past 5 or 6 days in surf ranging from really fuckin fun to eh, it occured to me that i'd truly be fucked without surfing in my life right now. Relationships fizzle and the ocean is there for you. Your teenage kid is suffering and you can take her out and surf for a few fleeting hours...Life is kicking you in the teeth and your son comes home with 1st place surfing trophies and re-ignites your stoke. Just when it's needed.
    It got bad. Really bad. I found myself in Newport Beach for a week and couldn't even get it together enough to partake in a chest high groundswell or body surf some Wedge nuggets...
    The weeks before that I drove my kids to the beach every day while I just sat at a picnic table--numb.
    But getting back in the water has made life for me more manageable. A place to cleanse myself and "stretch out my soul" a bit...
    I am thankful for that.
    Even if it feels like hell on land, there's hope and peace in the water, whether it's pumping or total crap.
    Also a good place to hide your tears and cry freely.
    The ocean will accept your pain but also remind you that there's a lot of beauty and love, too.
    Aloha.

    Offline money4coffeeman

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    Re: Surfing can save your ass.
    « Reply #1 on: October 24, 2014, 01:05:32 PM »
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  • WTF, EZ, We drop out of touch for a spell and see what happens!!!!! ;)
    PM back atcha- call me this eve and get your okole on a plane here now, soldier!!!

    Offline damian

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    Re: Surfing can save your ass.
    « Reply #2 on: October 24, 2014, 03:58:41 PM »
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  • Ed,
    I've been through one of those particularly terrible life experiences that left me not wanting to surf- or do much of anything else really.  If you're back in the water- then you are at least back on an up-swing.  Lots of time outside, a little break from regular life, and therapy did it for me.  I'd really recommend not skipping that last one.  Best of luck.

    Offline ez_ed

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    Re: Surfing can save your ass.
    « Reply #3 on: October 25, 2014, 02:02:19 AM »
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  • Mahaloz, guys. No therapy for me...It's the therapy that partially got me into this mess. Some things are best left alone and buried....I know it sounds archaic, but it's my firm belief.

    "Live like you're dying."

    Offline onefinookas

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    Re: Surfing can save your ass.
    « Reply #4 on: October 25, 2014, 05:49:13 PM »
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  • If you hold your fat in will human combust, FYI
    "paddleboarding is bullshlt, where's my wine" anonymous

    Offline ez_ed

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    Re: Surfing can save your ass.
    « Reply #5 on: October 26, 2014, 02:48:19 AM »
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  • Not me, baby. I have Dutch blood.

    "Live like you're dying."

    Offline ez_ed

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    Re: Surfing can save your ass.
    « Reply #6 on: October 29, 2014, 06:22:55 PM »
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  • I am super proud of my son for winning the North Shore Menehune 7-9 longboard division. He has been knocking on the door in years' past with a 3rd and 2nd place finish. This year he caught the biggest waves, made the best turns and cross-stepped well beyond his years to take the win. Given the tumult associated with parents on the brink, it is a true blessing. ...

    "Live like you're dying."

    Offline money4coffeeman

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    Re: Surfing can save your ass.
    « Reply #7 on: October 30, 2014, 03:38:24 AM »
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  • congrats! go N!

    Offline HydroGlide

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    Re: Surfing can save your ass.
    « Reply #8 on: October 30, 2014, 04:19:44 PM »
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  • I am super proud of my son for winning the North Shore Menehune 7-9 longboard division. He has been knocking on the door in years' past with a 3rd and 2nd place finish. This year he caught the biggest waves, made the best turns and cross-stepped well beyond his years to take the win. Given the tumult associated with parents on the brink, it is a true blessing. ...


    congrats on the well timed victory