Author Topic: Knee high on the sets  (Read 1577 times)

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Offline waveslider

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Knee high on the sets
« on: July 31, 2014, 06:34:06 PM »
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  • My in-laws were heading to Hawaii from NY for a podiatry convention so my wife, her brother and I decided last Tuesday that we would surprise them for a few days as we haven't seen them since Christmas. Got lucky with last minute standby tickets as my uncle works for the airlines and miraculously made it on the first flight we tried on Wednesday, in first class no less.


    Normally If I'm in Waikiki Ill rent a longboard from Moku or Koa for the week, but we got in late so they were both closed when i got there and didn't open until mid morning.


    I wake up around 4am and even though there is no swell I wanted to paddle out at first light, the only problem being I dont have a board and even the places on the beach to rent usually dont open til 7. As Im walking past the Moana Surfrider on the beach this creepy dude runs up to me. I was pretty convinced he was gonna stab me or try and sell me ice, but he asks me if i want to rent a board from him. He's a haole but an original one. Probably got stuck there on an acid trip in the 70's. I ask him what he's got and at this point I've pretty much convinced myself that the only thing I'm gonna have fun on in the micro swell is a 12' softop or a gallon of lava flows and a pool raft. He says he's got 3 great boards, so he takes me through the racks and i find a pretty cool one that he claims is 11' and more of a glider type shape. I dont have a tape measure and I'm part Irish so it would have taken quite a while to measure it so i take his word for it. No logos, no dims, triple stringer, glass-on single and its pretty suntanned but in pretty good shape. We chat for a few about the shitty waves and how in the 70's it was head high everyday.


    As anyone who has rented a board in Waikiki knows its usually about $25 a day from a shop or about $30 an hour on the beach. You also usually have to leave a copy of credit card, drivers license, hotel room key, first born etc. Guy tells me to take it and its $10 for 3 hours. I tell him Ill only be out for about an hour as I just want to grab a few waves before breakfast. He said hes going to grab some breakfast too and that I can just lock it up when I'm done. Wow this guy is pretty trusting.


    I paddle out, without a leash cause he didnt have one and it actually looks even worse from the water then it did from the beach. Its still pretty early and with minimal waves the usual dawn patrol crowd of 1000 only had about 15 people out. I caught a few meaningless waves but still fun because its bathtub warm and the turtles are already out. A set rolls through that pretty much everyone party waves and its just me and another gal sitting out the back when it happens. A rogue thigh high wave comes out of nowhere and I paddle for the great beast and catch it. I am now alone on a wave in Waikiki at 6 something in the morning. I rode that rogue wave practically on to the beach all the while doing almost nothing but standing there except a few small turns so I dont run over the other tourists. Normally when I'm up and riding I just yell "Godzirra" so no one drops in on me, but literally not 1 person paddled for it the whole time. I kick out and paddle back out with a huge poop eating grin, catch a few more and call it a day.


    After carefully inspecting the board as I was taking it out of the water the only thing i noticed was a super tiny JR on the bottom part of the tail. So basically all i could surmise from this is that the board was glassed by Jack but I had no idea who shaped it.


    I put the board back in the rack and strolled back to the hotel thinking about the best wave that I've caught in forever was thigh high in the middle of waikiki. I've surfed all over Oahu and Maui basically twice a year for the past 5 years or so, tons of great and memorable sessions in Manhattan Beach getting shacked in South bay closeouts, south orange county and north county sd and NY but this was by far the most fun and memorable wave I've caught in a damn while.


    I looked for the creepy dude for the next 3 days and never saw him. I lurked around the board a few times hoping that he would jump out again but no avail. Got stuck riding a crappy surftech for the rest of the week, but nothing will dampen the smile after that rogue wave.


    P.S. If we had a "Stories of Bitching: The anti-Aloha room" id post it there, but what the eff happened to Pops? I know our resident Oahu local lives up North but any ideas?  For 4 straight days pops was 83% SUP's which correlated to about 79% donkey f*c%tardery. Ruined a fun wave.
    « Last Edit: July 31, 2014, 06:37:11 PM by waveslider »