Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.

Topics - Waves be Good

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 16
So, planning to move so that I'm pretty much living on the Uluwatu/Bingin stretch and generally planning to ramp up my daily surf intensity a bit beyond what I'm used to.

Was thinking about donning a helmet, at least for some of the early weeks, while I get my shallow reef nerves in a row.

It seems like Gath sort of have this market on lockdown, no? (

Anything I should know, special considerations? (Paging Tommy)


I got a 1/4 inch little scrape, bailing out over a shallow coral reef, just enough to open the skin.

24 hours later (and despite putting antiseptic 2x), the wound is red and swollen with little bumps starting to develop in a 2" radius around the wound.

48 hours later those bumps are spread twice as wide and are showing up on my other, non-wounded hand.

I seek treatment and get calamine lotion and antibiotic cream.

But now, 72 hours later, I see the bumps spreading further along both hands, down past the wrist and itching.


Any tricks for rooting out coral infections? I went to the best clinic in Bali for this diagnosis and I feel like they may have been too relaxed.

(I accidentally posted this in a less-viewed board first. Just doubling up here in case the wider audience can lend a hand)

Hey Crew,

My wife and I, who many of you know, are leaving Senegal because of the spread of Ebola in West Africa. Because we have already left the country, friends from our surf community are helping us to evacuate our belongings.

We always surfed with a bunch of the Delta pilots and they'll be bringing three suitcases of our most important possessions back to JFK/NYC this Friday the 19th in the afternoon.

We need somebody to meet the pilots, collect the bags and take them via taxi to my wife's sister in Queens.

We tried putting this up on taskrabbit and recruiting people who don't know us; but I think they were sketched out. I literally packed the bags via webcam with my Danish neighbor who runs the Ngor Island surf camp and these pilots have a lot of integrity.

We're happy to pay somebody $100 plus the taxi fair to Queens (about 35 minutes from JFK, towards Laguardia).

If any of you know us and would be willing to help; we'd be so grateful. Leaving Senegal in these conditions sucks. Just like it sucks watching our community in Liberia in free fall.

Please send me a PM if you're able to help.


I wonder if anyone has found high quality resources about minimalizing vulnerability to, or the impact of umbilical hernias--the mid-abdominal type?

Surfing doesn't seem to be too much of an aggravation since even as we backbend, our abdomen's are usually planted on the board; but during cross-training for surf, I find that keeping in mind a hernia-vulnerability is a total drag and it's proven difficult to find consistent or clear advice anywhere I've looked online. Also, most MDs I've seen are just like, "don't lift anything heavy and eventually have surgery." not impressed.


So, I always enjoy the financial threads in here. I want to know if anyone's heard of this rumor that China is planning to create a gold-backed currency?

Seems like an absolutely brilliant (brutal) thing for them to do and may be part of why precious metals are climbing (one of a small number of things i track).

Whatchu all finance peoples thinking?

This is a bit of a long shot, I realize, but the wife of a one-time Rockaway surfer has two close friends missing during a dangerous climb in Peru. They're looking to get in contact with anyone whose got wings down there. I know some of you have surfed down there pretty often . . . any connects? Here's the request in not my words:
My friend, Ben, and his friend Gil, went to attempt a first ascent on the south face of Palcaraju Oeste in Peru and have been missing for over 5 days now.
 A search team found Ben and Gil's tent, followed tracks up the glacier to the base of the route (a 800 m face of steep snow and ice), and spotted tracks on the descent ridge at about 5,800 m. That's all they know so far.
 Friday morning, they plan to take a satellite image of the 5800m mark (at Lat: 922'19.71"S; Long: 7723'4.67"W), and to have a group on foot climb the ridge to the 5,800m mark. (It may be too dangerous to proceed, since the ridge does have a section of very broken glacier.)
 They desperately need to do a flyover of the area ASAP, but haven't been able to find a plane, despite major efforts to do so. If you know anyone in Peru who could lend or rent a plane, please contact Liora (202) 558-8346 ;[email protected]
 Please forward this message. You may know someone who can help.I know the surf connect is meager. But this community is the only one I know who might be able to link them up with a pilot/plane.

Thanks all.

Hello All,

My best friend is going to be spending a couple weeks in Guatemala (around Guat city) in December. He's just learning how to surf and will be on a budget, not shoestring; but nothing too nice.

Can anyone recommend a spot/surfcamp/establishment that takes good care of inexperienced surfers? Ideally, the shorter the travel time from Guat city, the best.

Thanks for helping me to steer my friend in the right direction. (I'll be standing by to answer your AFrica-centric inquiries)

So, it gets way bigger here in Senegal than I have previously experienced. The waves right near where I live can push well past doubleoverhead towards quadruple overhead and unsurfable.

I'm going to work on pushing my comfort with big waves and when it gets to be over 14' on the face, my 6'4" starts feeling a little bit small. I want to buy a semi-gun that can take me as far towards a 20' wave face as I develop the courage to surf. I'm not looking for a rhino chaser or a legit gun; but something fast and appropriate for heavy reefy and sometimes hollow waves of consequence.

I'm 5'11" and 150lbs.

I'm guessing I wanted a rounded pin tail? More length than width? Something in the high six foot range?

Any pointers at all?


Has anyone put together a best shots of the year thread for Rockaway/Long Beach recently? I don't check the site as regularly as I once did; but I would *love* to see a highlights thread for 2010 or the first half of 2011. Does it already exist?

the whole vertical slot of my futures fin is *full* of the part of the fin that did not snap off. There isn't any part protruding that I can grip with pliers. I have removed the screw and I can touch the fin through that hole, but I can't apply leverage because of the hole's length and delicacy.

How can I get this fin box free and clear? I need my step-up board back in the water.

Any tips?

A good friend of mine here in Liberia is pushing towards sixty years old and charging our point breaks fearlessly. He recently discovered that he's happier on a fish than he is on the 7'4" big guy thruster/funboard combination that he had been using like a crutch with his age as an excuse. He's super stoked on the fish that he's riding; but it's about to fall apart and he wants to know what he should buy.

He's not sure how much more time he's got riding fishes so he wants to get the best fish he possibly can. The one he's riding now is around 6'4" and I wouldn't go much shorter or much longer. It seems to be in the right range.

I want to help him to get a board that he will totally love since he surfs for seven hours on the one day off that he gets per week in between 14 hour days building the new U.S. embassy.

I can't say enough about how cool this dude is and what a presence in the water.

He'll buy whatever I recommend; but I'm not sure what to suggest and I don't know anything about the newer materials (carbon fiber, etc.) from which boards are being made.

SO: imagine you want to pimp out a fish for a grandpa: what is the best damn fish in the world?


So, in the 14th second of this video three surfers go for the same wave. I didn't see the contest and I don't know who got called. Looking at the situation, I'm not sure how it would be adjudicated. What happened?

Who got penalized? It looks like all three of them could be called. Or none. Or two . . .

(And hello, after a while of quiet, to the good people of NYC. I'm missing the snowfall surf. It's been way too flat in Liberia . . . under the palm trees. And Shenzi and I have some updates for you all, coming soon)

Stories of Stoke: The Aloha Room / First Legit Barrel Stoke
« on: December 14, 2010, 07:08:52 AM »
After six years of surfing and maybe two years of trying to get legitimately shacked, everything finally fell (or did not fall) into place. I've had my share of cover-ups and closeout barrels, but I've never yet managed to negotiate my way deep into a tube and then back out of it. This Sunday, a 5.5ft 18second swell lit up Liberia's best point break and turned out some growling 200 yard left handers with several challenging hollow sections all hovering in the 8-11' faces range.

Shipwrecks, the point about 300 yards south, lit up and devastated two of my silhouetted friends, which means that about 45 seconds remain before Cotton trees goes wide and long. I paddled deeper with the pack, let two of the set waves slide past and scratched in to the third which offered a standard steep drop and first couple of turns before getting super rampy in advanced of the second critical batch of rocks. After about 20 feet of 45 degree weird rampiness, the next 30 yards of the wave just went purely vertical and I set my line, trailed my hand and flew towards rock set number three. Then there is like a second and a half of blackout, where I now realize that a far bigger portion of the wave threw outwards than I expected and everything went *dark* and menacing. (I may also have closed my eyes.) The next thing I remember is seeing a way out about five to six feet ahead and I realized I could actually make it, which I did. I then claimed it, got bounced by some funky steep beach refract and blasted.

It was perfect. That threshold has been doggin' me for a long time and I'm so glad to be on the other side of it. Plus the best Liberian surfer here had a sweet view of my pit and was happy to re-live it with me about 12 times.

Stoked.  ;D 8)

Hello All,

I'd like to get an Alaia shipped to Shenzi's parents in Montana who will then bring it out to Liberia in a few weeks.

I know that they are usually part of this whole DIY spirit, etc. But I can't access that from Liberia.

Who sells Alaia's. How do you select one that is weight/height appropriate?

Any hints on shipping?

--I was riding a friend's here during last dry season and they make boring little waves into an adrenaline filled work out. So I'm really stoked on the idea of having my own.

Any suggestions welcome.

In my tradition of using this board for everything in life, here is a new departure:
  I'm canvassing for interest in the following job:
  A major NGO in Liberia wants to assess and map (via GPS) *every single   watering point* in the country. It's not a big country; but the roads   are often in terrible shape, or not in existence.
  I've got the technical team in place to compile and present the   information and to train the field workers to collect it and transmit   it. I've also got the water and sanitation experts to help train the   field workers to make accurate assessments of water points.
  * People who know how to ride motorcycles through serious technical rainforest.
  * People who know how to fix motorcycles that are damaged by serious technical rainforest driving.
  * (I do not want people who need training in anything about motorcycles.)
  * People who can project a zen/jedi calmness when surrounded by groups   of machete wielding villagers who may not understand English perfectly.
  * People who can project that same zen/jedi calmness when confronted   with troublesome officials. Nobody will seek to do you any harm (most   likely), you just need to make sure that you do not perceive your   circumstances as menacing and start getting all skittish.
  * (I do not want people who have short tempers and big egos, you will hurt yourselves and the reputation of my company.)
  * People who don't mind eating just about anything. You will be eating   weird rainforest creatures and spicy, oily soups. You will get mildly   sick and continue working.
  * You must also be happy with the idea (perhaps) of having a Liberian   guide/partner riding on the back of your bike (or following on his own)   to help facilitate your travels.
  This would be an 8-10 week gig, finishing at the end of December. It   would be near constant, round the clock travel and work. You would be   remunerated fairly. I will need at least six people, to cover the whole   country in the short amount of time.
  Afterwards, you would find yourself in Liberia, where there is surfing.
  If you know anybody who wants the experience of biking all over half of   Liberia (during dry season), and who can be trusted to collect   life-saving data for a good cause, please let me know at [email protected].

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 16