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Messages - ward_hill

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1
On A Wave by Thad Ziolkowski. He's a prof of Creative Writing at Pratt. It's really a memoir of growing up in Melbourne, FL in the 70s, so strictly speaking not a 'surf book'. Those older than fifty may find it  enjoyable from a nostalgic viewpoint; for others it offers a snapshot of the times. 

There's good surf stuff, but the narrative also tells a family's story. Definitely more in the category of Contemporary Lit than Surf Books.  A nice read for those so inclined.

2
through the indulgent beneficence of my family, i am planning a surf trip to the west coast, leaving late march, early april, accompanied by my trusty canine companion.  general scheme is to take a southern route pretty much straight across, with perhaps a quick stop in the southwest before heading over to the coast. will be heading home across the mountain west, with stops in bozeman and boulder to see friends.

would like to stay about two weeks each in the malibu and santa cruz areas. plan to do as much camping as possible, perhaps giving my middle-aged body a break for a few days at a motel/inn that will accommodate dogs.  i'm doing my homework on the web, etc., but just thought i'd stop in here to see if anyone had any recommendations, particularly about pet-friendly places.  thanks in advance ...

here's a shot of Buckley checking out Earl ...




3
congrats!

4
left my O'Neill 2/1 short suit on the ground next to my vehicle on saturday, very late afternoon, in the upper-tier parking lot all the way out east.  just thought i'd post here on the extreme outside possibility that someone here was there, picked it up, and hasn't sold it yet!

hope everyone got while the gettin' was good!


5
Ahh...Jake is still around, I'll send him a text message to check in with you! I think he may have an old board of yours if he didnt sell it to buy food for his dog - wait til you see the giant thing he has these days - LOL

Chizler pokes in once in a while under a psuedonym, Cupso is long gone as are some other familiar names - but you'll still find more than a few you remember if you poke around here a bit.

Not sure if I'll be out early tomorrow, but if I am, I'll for sure let you know/look for you.

chizler and cupso! ... that's when i came on the old site, then here.  i used to lmao every day!  still check in now and then ...

here's my surf doggie ... about 125 lbs in this pic, bigger now ...



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Nice!  Tks for sharing!

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suit is quite a few years old, but has been worn less than 5 times

size M/T

lots of creases, but otherwise in very good condition

will accept a reasonable offer










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wow, that sucks

i exchanged greetings with you guys on the boardwalk as i was coming off the beach ... came back and sat a while and saw the bag hanging on the pole and you guys in the water a ways west of there

it was still there when i left, at a few minutes before noon

9
About 6-7 years ago at an extremely western spot, hurricane swell (can't recall which one) on my 9'4" longboard.  It took me forever to make it out and when I got there I realized that I had no business being there.  Waited for a long time until a "small" enough wave came in.  I took off and made it about 7/8 of the way down the face when it pitched over me and knocked me in front of the wave.  Then next thing I remember is being ragdolled like never before or since and then dragged toward the beach.  No idea which way was up until I felt my leg being pulled by my leash which was stretched to within an inch of its life.  Kept stoking trying to get to the surface and was just being dragged.  Finally popped my head up, in the soup, long enough to gulp a breath and see that the rest of the set was about to land on me.  Returned to the dragging thing and it didn't end until I was pushed up on the beach.  I just lay there trying to catch my breath.  A friend came running over cause he thought I was in serious trouble.  He had watched the whole thing and was looking for me after I went down and said he was amazed that I got a breath when I popped up, because he said my head just popped up long enough to be seen and then got dragged right back down.  The day I learned that a man has got to know his limitations.

september 99?  around the 12th?  hurricane dennis? ...

I drove out to a high-numbered street in b**** h*****.  Coming over the V-Z, there was a large wave breaking right off Caesars Bay!

There were solid 10 footers coming in, with light offshores.  I got rejected once, then made it out on my booger.  Once there, I regretted it. Looking down, it felt like being on the roof of a house!  There was no one else out, at all!  I just wanted to get back in.  I aborted several attempted takeoffs, and then realized that I'd gotten myself a bit too far inside when a huge set appeared outside.  I kicked and paddled like hell to get back out, making it just to the bottom of a monster that came down on my head.  After a scary-long holddown, I got to the surface and grabbed my board just in time to get launched on a huge foamball.  After another ridiculous holddown, I resurfaced within about 20 yards of the beach.  I made it out of the shorepound and collapsed on the beach, ready to barf.  During the second one, I was actually thinking that I might not make it.  While recovering on the beach, I watched some kids on shortboards getting annihilated a couple blocks east. 

I've learned to accept my limits!!


10

wow.  i can think of a lot of people that these mice are better than   ::)

that was my first thought ... those effing rats are better than i am :-[


2) the second comment: "I feel sorry for the poor mice. They must be terrified"....how do you know they're not stoked outta their little rat minds. if you're gonna anthropomorphize, why not be positive ?


exactly!  ;D

i needed a good laugh, thanks ray g!

11
Marioville! Sports, Politics, Humor and more... / Re: FREE HOWARD
« on: October 26, 2006, 12:30:24 PM »
no comments re howard, but $.02 on R&B ... imho, best R&B program is rythmn review with felix hernandez on wbgo every sat morning ... follows saturday morning function with bob porter, another great show

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Stories of Stoke: The Aloha Room / Re: Oct 12th
« on: October 12, 2006, 11:33:52 PM »
appreciate all the work LN, have fun at the wedding and good luck on the interview!

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Happy Birthday!!!

And thanks for keeping the site humming along ... bravo!

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i was out friday from 10 to around 1:30, sitting quite a ways west of the jetty, and couldn't believe the sh#t going on over there  :o




15
thanks, jsk ...

worked like a charm!

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