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Messages - RayG

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1
I know Alex has his boys swimming, but if I may do some bragging-

Remember ‘giggle girl’ on the boogie board from a few years ago?

My niece Ciara (who is now 7) just made the Swim Team at her School in Queens. She told me she now want to gets to the “real” waves this year!
So once I get back on my feet and into the water after this latest gallbladder incident, I’ll have my partner in waves!


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2
Question pops up at least once a season... check past threads for many opinions. But to be blunt, your first attempt will suck... but it will BE YOURS. It will be asymmetrical, but the wrong way. It will be fast when it needs to be slow, and a dog when you need speed. Every fin will be offline and the finish will be sh1t. BUT IT’S YOURS.


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3
Whatever Mother Nature did in the last few weeks, thank you. A semblance of  sandbar returned to a former non-sandbar spot. No more sand suckers dumping on the beach. Conditions not great, but certainly sponge-worthy this AM. DP with less wind was better. Eventually, wind got to be too much.


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4
Well, first off, you earned a kudo for not calling it "boogie boarding". Once you are beyond the cloth covered "CVS Pro models" and move onto Slick bottoms and boards with a stringer (or 2), you can then be considered a "Body Boarder".


If you've been surfing for awhile, then you pretty much have all the wave knowledge you'll need. One MAJOR difference is the takeoff spot. You won't be able to sit out at the Ambrose Light and pick off the sets like you might have on your Plimmatron, that's for sure. Knowing the power spot towards the inside will get you into more waves with minimal effort. (Picture the old movies from Bruce Brown and the like- a quick turn, one paddle and up and riding. They didn't paddle for 30 yards trying to get into a wave).


If you want to "have a clue", don't go straight. Which I think is pretty obvious.
Hand placement? Everyone is different- but in general, going left- left hand about 4-6 inches off left front corner. Right hand is back on the outside rail about where your waistband is on your boardies. This allows finer control for setting the inside edge(pull up to trim higher, ease off to slide down a bit).
Going right would be the mirror image. You will find, just like standup, that you will have a preference for lefts or rights based on how coordinated you are. Nothing to do with being a goofy or regular foot. I am a regular foot when skating or surfing, but my body is better coordinated for going left(essentially, backside) on the BBoard.
As for paddling back out? Using the fins correctly makes that easier as well. DON'T kick your feet and have them come out of the water. You waste a lot of energy and momentum. Keep your feet below the surface with a smooth strong motion- you make better progress.
While I will paddle out into almost any size- there are limits when it's small. Mushburgers that need you to "assist" with kicking isn't worth it. Fins can be used as it gets bigger to hold the edge or to stall a bit without pulling back on the nose to slow down. IF you are into the spinny fiddly moves you need to release the fins from the water to allow that kind of stuff. I'm a bit past all of that with the aches, pains and bad back stuff, so i'm more into getting the tubes and "power carves" and such. Especially in grinding shorebreak... which doesn't always suit my aches and pains and bad back.


Bottom line? Don't worry about what others think. Show up, paddle out and drag your nuts like a big boy and have some fun.

5
I don't don't find it too much of an issue. It's the water that can't go anywhere that makes you feel deaf. A quick pluck on the side of the hood with a head shake and the water escapes the ear canal. Hearing restored... ish.


But you've missed out on the main reason for leaving it there... "Oh, sorry, I didn't hear you calling me off when I blatantly dropped in on your best wave of the day"

6
<Aussie vox> "you guys really missed it..." Almost precisely at 9:30am, wind turned on shore and crossed it all up. Before that, pretty sweet on a good tide at one of my sandbars in central. Then walked 18 holes. I think my legs might fall off...


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7
Yeah, I know... spongers... But it's prime Teahupoo


https://apbtour.com/live/

8
I say, use the piping plovers bodies to make a reef...


9
Even some of the greatest names use/used "Professional Glassers". As shaping is an extremely difficult skill to master, glassing can be just as technical to get the best out of the board.


For those of us who have shaped their own boards (once usually, to see what it's like), not being an expert in either usually meant a brown trout job on both aspects.


As long as they work together as a team to get the most out of the foam... who cares?

10
Right, not the place. Islanders belong on the funny pages


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11
I was able to sit JUST inside the drift zone... well, actually I could stand on the bar and hold position instead of wearing out my 56 year old legs. Since I was alone I could wait for the the non 'closey' waves. worked out fine, and I could see the larger set waves coming by peering up towards the crowded spot. When they hit there I could paddle outside and pick them off pretty regular. It's getting towards that time of year when the "silver line" on the horizon lets you know a set is coming. (but you didn't hear that from me... ;) ) Quite a few longish barrels on the midsize ones. Larger set waves didn't throw over quite as much until they were well inside and then closed out.

12
...Fall waves are all about. No need to go into all the sordid details if you got out. The usual crowd scene at a popular LB Boulevard. 2 or 3 blocks away an empty jetty all to myself for a couple of hours. I will give some kudos to the gaggle of groms that paddled out as a bunch later on. I certainly expected the worst, especially needing to be in a slightly more inside spot on the sponge. But no, they waited their turn, pulled back if I was on one. I would return the favor for the next one and let them have it, even if I was in the spot. Even as they "wolfed" around to the different peaks, they still gave me my waves that I was lined up for.


It's been a while since I had a 4 hour session, but time was flying with all the fun I was having.





13
I remember- I looked it up in my old posts. It was the winter 2010/2011. This thread was started:


http://www.nynjsurf.com/forum/main_room_general_new_york_surf_and_new_jersey_surf_discussions/once_time_i_was_surfer._29893.0.html



I followed along with all the posts about "getting away from here" to find waves anywhere. That's when I wrote this:


http://www.surfinghandbook.com/2011/01/the-sky-is-different-at-the-ocean/




14
Put a sponge in your quiver. Wind swell and the right sandbar can be overhead and draining. And painful depending on thickness and depth


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15
Oh, right. Using Trace around here at most beach breaks. Take off, bottom turn, pull in, close out. "Distance Travelled: 30 yards". "Time Riding: 2.6 seconds".


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