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Messages - nose_manual

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421
So I am in that category of older guy (41) with some kookish tendencies.  I'm not an amazing surfer by any means, but I'm also not bailing on every drop in.  Sometimes bigger rights and lefts become straights.  Sometimes, if no one is around me, I jump off of my board and let it go where it goes.  I pearl every now and then and come up laughing at myself.

Here's the thing: not everyone learning to surf is as blatantly ignorant as the folks who (I think) you're referring to in this post.  I do paddle out at the main peak a lot, but sometimes, particularly when it's bigger, it's just to watch from close up.  I want to see where people are positioning themselves, to watch how good surfers paddle and make the drop, and to pick up on the dynamics of the wave.  I may move out to the shoulder and drop in from there, but only if I know no one else is near me.  I'm usually out of the way and I make waves enough to be far ahead of someone who dropped in at the peak.  I am surprised sometimes by how fast people catch up to me, though, and that usually results in moving further out on the shoulder.

I guess I'm just saying that everyone needs to learn, and people learn differently.  I get pissed off when surfers who are clearly more competent will just sit directly inside of me because they assume I won't make a wave.  If I blow one wave and get back into position and you paddle just inside of me because you saw that I'm in a good spot, I get annoyed.  I don't usually say anything because I don't feel like I have that right, necessarily.  No wave belongs to me.  But I will stay in that spot and paddle right for you and hopefully make my bottom turn. 

People in my position are, in my opinion, responsible for taking an approach to learning that doesn't put anyone in danger and hopefully doesn't annoy them.  But that goes both ways.  If I get glared at, I usually apologize and smile and generally people who are really good surfers are super nice and forgiving.  They laugh it off.  It's the intermediate "rippers" who tend to be more aggro, who glare and don't say hello or respond if I say "nice wave."  Maybe they could actually learn something by watching me...

Not to get too deep into the hierarchy of kooks, but I think that one does exist. 

Also, the idea of using a hamstring as a leash is truly disgusting, but if it means keeping Yeti off the streets, I'm in.



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