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Messages - MikeM

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16
dude that was awesome...  sucks about your girl but you know you made the right decision - i think you know that. 

Any girl that is going to give a man an altematem every time he thinks about doing something which she can't be a part of, most likely won't be there for him in the end.  That altematem thing is deadly!
What ever happened to a discussion, an understanding, and a compromise?!
Though I miss her greatly, and from behind the curtain of love, was prepared to take the plunge, she was not the one, and I am very glad that she had the strength to finaly end it for good.



18
Didn't see a doc until a couple days after I got home.  I wouldn't want to stitch it due to that affecting how the nail bed comes back, if it comes back.  It never hurt in Hawaii.  Once it blew up and got all wierd looking, here, I went in.  He quarterized it, but not to stop the bleeding, more to kill the infected area, and allow it start healing fresh again.  He said it will be at least 3 mos. for it to heal.  Sounds worse than it is though, it just hurts a little, and it hasn't stopped me from doing anything along the way.

20
thanks for reading.  Glad you enjoyed it!
Damned if i know what happened to that toe.  I looked down and saw a circle of blood around the flesh that holds the nail bed in place, and thought, that's gonna hurt!  Had about 4 miles left to walk, before I could clean it, and it started raining, the trail got slick and muddy.  I can definately understand how 92 lives were lost on that trail.
Must have caught it on a razor sharp piece of a hardwood root or something.
When i got to the ocean and rinsed it, i had to pull the whole thing off, nail, nail bed, and surrounding flesh.  The infection now, is way nastier than the clean bloodied tip that I walked outta there with.  That jungle mud is no good for booboos.

21
I like the v-slit alot better than the Rambo hack.  Thanks. 

22
So I lost a generous piece of my left pinke toe on that Napali trail, and finished the hike Barefoot. When I got to the clean ocean, I stepped in and cleaned the wound. Bandaged her up with some tripleantibiotic, and surfed away the rest of the trip. Everything stayed good until I got home, but now she's blown up and lookin like a hunk of wood. The doc thinks I have some tropical exotic infection, and prescribed 1500 mg of Kefalexin. So my question is, Is my rotten booty pee collection gonna kill me tomorrow, and if so, how do i seal it off without taping the hell out of it?
I guess I should have posted this on Onefins long and short of it thread.
LOL

23
I love this message board!  Nice deep and meaningful responses from all.  Will have to print this one and file it away with the ireland one.  Anyone know anything about buying realestate in Sayulitas?  Is Mexico a safe real estate investment?  Or do they have squatters rights question marks on every deed?

24
Well it started out as a last minute act of self preservation, after this douldromous winter. What came out of it was a life altering experience.
Day 1... fly three flights and 14 hours (including layovers) Dinner at Dukes with my best friend( it would be hard to find a better person in this world) and 3 chicks of various levels of interest. We had the geeky one, the older hippie one, and the fake breasted Orange County snobby one. Took a solo walk down to the water and felt the warm ocean on my feet, and just listened to the waves surging against the sand, breathing slow and deep, the stars thick and bright overhead. AHhhh!
Day 2 and 3 or 4... DP delivered close to head high on occasion, I guess, actually the surf from those three days is kinda blurry. It was relatively small but always a wave that we would consider epic by our standards. Nice to have real good company, and local knowlege. Got to stand up paddle a bit for the first time on this 10'0 Topper Fish. Later, got to paddle a friends outrigger canoe out in the Bay for the sunset. Unreal beauty, the clouds had been thick up in the ridges of the lush green mountains, thickening the waterfalls to an amazing level. The first three days had these unreal low rising rainbows, humpbacks every day. The kids broke the sand on a river outlet and were ripping up the lepto standing waves. Wacky drunk lady jumps in and tears thru the lineup, without a clue. Lunch with Ambrose and a cool tour of his very unique shaping compound. The evenings were spent with beers and surfy movies. You gotta see second thoughts if you haven't yet.
Flew back to Oahu where my other best friend has been living on and off for 20 years. He took a week off, just to surf with me. And surf we did. After visiting Owl at the sunset shitter, we shared small kine sunset point with 5 guys out including K Bradshaw and his 21 year old hottie.
Then paddled over to Kammies and had ourselves some sweet bowly rights. Ahhh then there was the Kava, and its funny how you get to know people there, just by visiting a bunch of years in a row. Very fun time across the street from rubber duckies. There's no better place for babe watchin than foodland on the north shore! At least none that I know, but if there is one please do divulge. The surf never got too big and when Sunset finally came alive around day 5 or so, the crowd was just relentless. Back to Kammies for the deep bowly rights and just a few friends. Then to the sugarmill to visit Mike Casey, and check out this sick Ulo board that he shaped out of solid Koa, identical to a performance shape polynesian board from several hundred years ago! Freakin sicko! Mike Casey always has something really cool goin on. He may be livin day to day, but he is livin! Fun guy. Check him out @ www.caseysurfdesigns.com
Last year he paid me the honor of revealing the intricacies and secrets of making a hollowed out hardwood board.
Hit Chunns with Hurricane a coupla times too. Then we met up with Johnny Moore and went to the range on the southeast side and fired away on the .38, the .45, and the .22. Got a nice shell hicky to remember the moment. First time behind a pistol.... Good fun!
Looked at the forecast and home was still lookin cold, my girl had told me "if you go, don't bother coming back", and wasn't taking my calls. So I extended the trip for an extra week and went back to the other island. Brother Micks came over for a surf with Mr. Chinaski and I but my back wasn't allowin it. Another great soul livin the life in paradise.
On that next part of the trip, for the most part, I did the solo thing, and had a good time. Surfed whenever my back allowed it, hiked the trail along the Napali coast(in flip-flops), which took a third of my left pinke toe. Beautiful rugged trail! Canons was catching the swell @ doubleoverhead but there was no way my back was gonna let me paddle into one of those. Heavy Heavy! Hootin away at the scene though!
Dinner with Ambrose and Micks. I've never met a guy with more of what he calls obtuse humor. Wish I had a recorder. The man is a genius, no doubt. Micks is too, but Micks is more of a normal kinda genius! Amazing insight and an honor to be blessed with friendships and people like this in our lives.
Another of those days, I hit the road for the Waimea canyon and Kokee State Park. Freakin unreal! Blows away the grand canyon! Not nearly as big but it has what the GC has and then some packed into a smaller and more observable space. Just incredible to look into the purples and greens and see the falls, and the tops of mountains below you. At the end of Kokee, i found the spot that I will take the love of my life to one day. At 4,000 feet, the clouds carress the mountain peaks, and plume gently, up, around, over and through, like the spirits of the ancients themselves, rising, calmly watching over the sacred land. The chordoroy of the blue ocean becomes visible below as the clouds open, temporarily exposing, her naked beauty. Just an awe inspiring place to meditate, to just sit and breath and tune out all that other junk and just be happy to be alive. Next time I'll rent a bike. For the 15 mile trip back down.
The last day was spent at the bay, surfed 7 hours! the humpbacks were within 300 yards and just slamming away at the surface with there tails and flukes. Guarding their layer i presume. Out of the corner of my eye i saw a larger fish hit a 12" bait fish, and then this huge boil of thrashing unleashed, as that larger fish was engulfed by the next guy on the foodchain. Big ol bitch, fin was pasty brown green color, I'm thinkin hammerhead. Later in the day the spinner dolphins schooled up and came inside just dancing in the air for hours! Great crew of guys out for flat ****, not epic but still overhead and awesome by our standards. Turns out some of the older fisherman that I know, own homes there on the bay. Small world! **** Cross was kind enough to share a few waves and talk story, check his work out. Amazing! www.rockcross.com
Finished off the session with a humpback that rose up real slow and just held its hump up for a good 5 seconds, then very slowly disappeared into the abyss. Mother nature was sending me off, and i was no doubt enthralled by her beauty! Mahalo to the gods of nature for keeping it real and holding on through it all!

Cruised back to the ******, stuck in thick traffic, and the dj was talking about the power being out for the whole north shore and most of the east side. Didn't hear what caused it at that point. Pulled into the driveway and there's a beautiful voice on the radio chiming in to how i was feeling about the magic of the island , and where i'm at in life, and why i'm really there right then, and she just goes off on this acoustic indian jewel rant of song that was just epic. I sat in the driveway for 30 minutes, and just listened to her story and her music. I think i fell in love. She only picked up a guitar 2.5 years ago and already has an album cut, and while she sat on the **** and watched us run for the ocean she chimed in to our connection with nature and spirit and the cleansing act of doing what we do as surfers inb the ocean. She wrote a song about it, that day, and played, seemingly for me, on KKCR. Check her out @ http://cdbaby.com/cd/katiegray

So I sent her an email, and let her know that she reached me, and she was kind enough to return a note saying that the song will definately be on her next cd. Good stuff, right there.
Last day so i had to pack everything up and then hit it to Ambroses shop for talk story and hang with the brahs. The local hawaiian guy, i forgot his name was working on Ambroses truck while Ambrose just starts rippin this old school pigeon, and laughin, just a rant of entertainment. The local brah starts telling me how when Ambrose first came to the island and opened his shop, 30 years ago, he needed some resin tint, and went to Ambrose, and ambrose pulled out this half ampty container of the right color and says $7. I guess i'm ramblin, but i'll continue, noones forcing you to read this. So the local guy gets pissed cause he knows that the full container would cost 6 at the store, and he took it and left and said, that's it, i'm never buying nothin from that guy again. Now they're best friends and he refers to him as the only howly that took the time to learn the hawaiian language. All 5 of his children have hawaaian names.
So then it was a quick and unforgettable meal at K pasta, (brother Micks, you better show that young pretty lady server a good time)and off to the bird for the return to the ohana.
Stoked on an epic journey!

25
Aloha NY,  glad to see that my plan paid off for all parties.  See here's how i do it...
I book my flights and the swell models blow up where i'm leaving from and drop down where i'm headed, then i get a nice slightly overhead hollow peeling and realing week of surf, at my destination with the whales, rainbows, and bikinis...  Then as my departure date approaches, the model blows up and i extend the trip, incur a few service charges and charge the real thing like a honky with a credit card!
Trips been awesome.  My best friends are in Hawaii, no doubt!

26
Keep the dp open for small kine Makaha on Tuesday, though the north shore will be a little bigger.  Paddle out in the dark and enjoy the first round with a little solitude.  You won't be disappointed.  I'm arriving in the afternoon, so will be missing that oppurtunity.  feeling the pain of lacking waves after traveling 5,000 miles, but at least you're in Hawaii, and surfing with some great people.  Those trades seem like they lay off a bit between now and 1 March.  Could make for some east side oppurtunities.  Check your pms for my number if you wanna trade a heads up or two, or have a beer or a surf.
~Mike

28
Cool.  Thanks

29
$80 per board.  You'll ussually get thru NY with being charged for one while two or three are in there, but HNL gets you for every board without fail.

30
Not sure how to get the details but I just heard on the news that there is a tsunami warning in effect for indo and thailand.  Have there been any improvemnets in the warning system over there yet?  Know how to find out where the warning is for?  Where's Toby right now?

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