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Messages - MikeM

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The trip was incredible!  Both for me and my son as surfers and for my wife and other kids as a family.  While it took a couple of days just to find the spots and get used to the roads enough for our dawn patrol routine, we scored over head waves in the 4 to 5 star range!  Added blessing the south coast turned on and it was incredibly beautiful and head high perfect a-frames.  If you're going to Barbados for the first time, pm me for some intel.

Thanks to the power of the surfing community sharing and posting about my missing board, she finally made it home!  Material things don't matter but surfboards are more than material...  Friendships we make and how we treat eachother are what makes life matter.  Thank you friends of the ocean!

Got a call last week from a guy who was feeling sorry for steeling my board!  It's coming home!  Made it all the way to Wilmington before he had a change of heart.  Super grateful that he came clean and that this work of art is coming home.  Thank you for thoughts and comments.

After posting this, I got a call for an EMS response on a guy that was in the water at the coast guard dock.  Grabbed my wet wetsuit and was first on scene for what would become the saving of a life of a man in my industry who's boat had overturned in the chaos of wind against tide conditions.  The patient arrived on a coast guard boat and we medevaced him to a trauma center where his core temp had been brought back to 89 degreeson arrival and climbing.  Last report... 98.5 degrees and recouperating!  We saved a life tonight!

Reminiscing of the roping muffly warped gargle of the tube in which i was gliding thru clinging to the wall for deeper cover.... over and over!  Avery takes off behind the peak on a set wave, and finds his first interior view of the curl as well.  Such a proud daddy!   Such a stoked Daddy! Words cant describe the gratitude I have for my life these days.  But I am grateful to everyone I've ever encountered in any way and to those that paved the way to allow for this lifetime...  Tough days for the earth but god i'm proud.  Shared a moment of silence with Avery in the surf today as well, remembering the lost lives of this day in 1941.  In addition to the thousands of Navy Personnel lost, firefighters responding to the aid of the ships were lost as well.  6 of which were the only non military personnel to ever recieve the purple heart!  Indebted

I was supposed to be working in NYC but snuck off to Montauk at 3 am instead.  Scored some epic waves and came in for a break at about 10 am.  Felt like the world was ending and World War 3 had begun, as firemen that had been surfing packed it in and went to the aid of their fallen brothers.  For my wife, the news that I was in Mtk overpowered the sense of relief that I was not in NYC.  I left as if heading to work and went surfing instead...  World War 3 had begun in that house that day as my (now ex)-wife refused to join me in Mtk and I refused to head west.  Paddled back out not knowing if those would be my last waves or not.  I've grown up a lot since then.  But I'm still surfing in Mtk only now I 'm surfing with my son!  He's got the bug and there's no better thing for stoking the stoke then when your child finds his own!  Blessed are we who ride with the ocean!  May the spirits of the 343 be gliding in the waves of heaven with the love of the ancestors and the stoke of the angels.

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