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Messages - Mark E

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16
I am a recovering hanger. Been folding for about a year now.

17
Be interesting to see how it looks with an on shore wind.

18
Looseness is our beacon, he is forging ahead, setting an example for the rest off us. No surrender!!!!

19
It always takes a little time to get used to winter rubber. The gloves are a killer. I am going to rock the 1.5mm gloves as long as possible. The mittens are just stupid, hard to push down into the water and heavy to lift out of the water.

21
My usual spot did not look user friendly this morning at low tide. Paddled out and gave it a go. Ooof! Above my pay grade so I got back in my car and drove to a more manageable spot that didn't have broken boards washing up on the shore line.

22
Most shortboards have a soft rail in the front and a hard rail in the rail. The soft rail is forgiving and less likely to catch as you transition rail to rail. The hard rail in the tail will give you grip in the face of the wave as you pump but will then give you release as you make a turn. Think of a stone skipping on the surface of the water.

23
I don't miss any of this.  Moved to the west coast a few months ago and the crowds here aren't half as bad as Rockaway.  I usually try to find my own spot anyway, but even when there's a crowd there is still some respect. 


Congratulations on the move. Have fun exploring and try not to miss the NY winters too much  :)

24
Look around in any line up. There is always someone who is getting waves, ripping and not getting in anyones way. Sometimes he is sitting deep at the jetty but a lot of times he is picking off the ones that go wide. Look again and he is inside getting the smaller ones. Doesn't matter where he is, he is always getting waves. His eyes are always on the horizon. He is not looking at the other surfers, he is not waving to people on the beach and he is definitely not shouting to his friends who are a football field away.

25
I'm a mess!    But being 69 years old and surfing since 1962, it's still a win.    Total knee replacement after getting infection surfing in panama. Too many scars from finding hard objects with my body.  Broken toes from getting driven through my board by a really big wave.   Broken hand when the lifeguard boat got driven on to me by shore break. Tweaked neck , wrong place wrong time.   Two blown shoulders punching out of F-4 with shoulder harness not tight enough, been paying with pain for that since 1969.   Real stiff over all, the more I work out and stretch the better.    Mild pain just now from the storm swell we had last week, but worth it


Punching out of an F-4 seems like the more exciting of the injuies in the list.

26
41, I had put the plug in the jug a few years earlier and was looking for something healthy to do. A surfer friend told me I should learn in the winter when there are less people around to piss off. I didn't want to spend money on something I might not enjoy to I went to the dive shop in the East Village and bought some cheap dive boots with zips up the side and a pair of 3mm gloves. My friend gave me one of his old wetsuits. It was the kind with the chest zip that went half way down the arms and was way to big for me. I paddles out into chest high waves in the middle of February. The suit was way to big and flushed so badly it took my breath away. My hands went instantly numb and the boots filled up with water. I flailed around in the white water for about half an hour until my body went completely numb and I could hardly walk..............I've been hooked ever since.






27
Hero day.

28
I am kicking myself preemptively already


Be grateful for the fact that you can kick yourself since your legs will not have been bitten of by sharks!!!

29
Plus it's summer so that means there are sharks. Ugh!!!

30
Yes, fun waves and a fun crowd.

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