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Messages - Mark E

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1
Guys offering to replace the board. Wouldn't do any harm to take him up on the offer and post a review.

2
Significant other must be low maintenance for maximum shred time.

3
Look around in any line up. There is always someone who is getting waves, ripping and not getting in anyones way. Sometimes he is sitting deep at the jetty but a lot of times he is picking off the ones that go wide. Look again and he is inside getting the smaller ones. Doesn't matter where he is, he is always getting waves. His eyes are always on the horizon. He is not looking at the other surfers, he is not waving to people on the beach and he is definitely not shouting to his friends who are a football field away.

4
41, I had put the plug in the jug a few years earlier and was looking for something healthy to do. A surfer friend told me I should learn in the winter when there are less people around to piss off. I didn't want to spend money on something I might not enjoy to I went to the dive shop in the East Village and bought some cheap dive boots with zips up the side and a pair of 3mm gloves. My friend gave me one of his old wetsuits. It was the kind with the chest zip that went half way down the arms and was way to big for me. I paddles out into chest high waves in the middle of February. The suit was way to big and flushed so badly it took my breath away. My hands went instantly numb and the boots filled up with water. I flailed around in the white water for about half an hour until my body went completely numb and I could hardly walk..............I've been hooked ever since.






5
I am kicking myself preemptively already


Be grateful for the fact that you can kick yourself since your legs will not have been bitten of by sharks!!!

7
No doubt it was a tough winter. Surfed in a couple of very cold snow storms and maybe only one day when the winds were not howling.


On the other hand I took my first dedicated surf trip to California during a week long head high swell and scored the best waves of my life!

8
I would move the thickest part forward so that it is under your chest when paddling. Just sayin'.

9
Do we not live in a capitalist economy? Why do surfers get outraged by people asking high prices. If you don't want it don't buy it. No need for righteous indignation, the board will eventually find it's true price.


Save your outrage for the banks and investors that are buying up big swaths of NYC housing and pumping up housing prices.

10
Epic times...


good vibes. Stoked to surf with the crew and be allowed to sneak a few waves in.




Great to surf with Seppo. Dude knows how to get huge wave count without stepping on any toes.

11
Fun-ness. Groveled on my own shapes for most of the session but got into a few outside ones on an 8ft mega Simmons with a twinzer fin set up shaped by JD at JD San Jose surfboards. I saw the board at  the "It does not work" show and got to find out that it actually does work really well..

12
It was great talking to other backyarders about board design.  I also talked to non -backyarders about other stuff and that was fun too.

13
Glad to know people are scoring a lot recently. Wife and I just had a baby on 3/25, so I've been out of comission  :( . Seems like the swell train has ramped up, just in time for me to go on hiatus. After such a good winter i really have no business complaining but damn, i feel like i've missed a bunch of swell already.


I'd be curious to know from the fellow dads on he board how long it was before you ot back in the water. Having a kid is so awesome but I totally get why people say how drastically your life changes as a result. PLEASE, someone give me hope that I will surf again!


Maybe I am old school but I found that in the beginning there wasn't all that much for me to do. Certainly no problem for me to be away from them for a three or four hour stretch. I know I did a lot of driving and I certainly did my fair share of jiggling in the beginning.




14
I wasn't going to say anything ............. but you might want to check the rear fins on that Faktion.

15
Definitely more Jerzy runs this winter but managed to pick off a super fun wave at my local spot yesterday before the wind started to really crank.  Harsh walk back to the car through the horizontal "wintery mix".