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Messages - Mark E

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1
I have no flexibility in my wrists. I find it hard to get enough lift from the rails so I use my fists on the deck. Fine in the winter with gloves but sometimes get bruised knuckles in the summer. Seems crazy but my body seems to have adapted to the fist pop up and my shortboarding has improved.

2
Ice cream headaches in South Jersey this weekend. Baking hot with only surfers with wetsuits in the ocean.

3
I'm guessing '67 or '68, right before the shortboard revolution.


She's water tight but the original fin had been ground into a weird shape so I glassed on a contemporary fin.


Located in Brooklyn.















4
I don't think you can expect to surf a mid length the way you surf a shortboard. better to embrace the midlengthyness and move your feet around.








5
Might also be wave knowledge. On any given day a beach break will present you with a myriad of different waves. Some will be steep and pitchy and some will be rolling through barely  breaking until they are all the way at the shore line. Some will peel down the beach while others will close out. You have to learn to recognize the ones that are steep enough to let you in but also have a corner on them that will give you  enough time to angle down the line and pop to your feet.


If you look at the vid the wave is pitching but the surfer has found steep but not pitching section of the wave to pop up on. Then he drives down the line getting past the pitching section of the wave as it breaks.

6
But the Dirty looks great today!


Heard it had some size at dawn but by the time we got our lazy asses down there it was waist to shoulder. Still fun as the tide dropped.


Great time of year. Still not cold but the line ups have thinned a little.

7
Great waves! Great Footage!!

8
Nice, did you glass it with poly or epoxy?

9
Yes, second. Now let's vote.

10
A few years ago I made a 9' 2" traditional pig shaped longboard that was 3 1/4" thick with belly from nose to tail. Board was fun to ride but a lot to handle in overhead waves.
I then made a board with the same outline but only 2 3/4" thick but with a flat bottom through out. Both boards were glassed heavily with volan.
The second board didn't paddle as fast as the first board but was a very different ride. Much more responsive when up on a wave face, and didn't have to
get my foot back with a lot of weight to make a check turn or cut back. The best way to describe the second board is "more sporty".


I guess my point is that thickness and bottom shape have a lot to do with the way a board feels.

11
Guys offering to replace the board. Wouldn't do any harm to take him up on the offer and post a review.

12
Significant other must be low maintenance for maximum shred time.

13
My RipCurl flash bomb booties are delaminating on the soles after about 5 sessions. Would not recommend.

14
Dude!!!! How am I supposed to see you if you are inside the wave?????

15
Saturday I surfed head high waves at a popular spot with only 5 or six guys out. Maybe the surfing fad is over.

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