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Messages - malibu casey

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A year and a half into a free ride to law school, I said Fuck this brown trout, I'm moving to Hawaii.  I only stayed there a few years but here I am 20 years later, still on a "leave of absence" from school and trying to figure out what I want to do when I grow up.  I bailed on my career, but I've never bailed on family or friends. 

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On Tuesday morning after the storm when we were walking around, absorbing what we just went through, and checking in on friends, I saw a totally clean minivan with a longboard strapped on the roof driving down Holland.  If we didn't have the girls with us, I probably would have put his head through his windshield for being so callous.  My initial thoughts were "locals only", but then after witnessing the outpouring of support from people, complete strangers who have volunteered their time, tools, energy, food, clothing, and genuine goodwill over the past few weeks, I have to say I have a different view now.  I haven't been in the water yet and don't know when I will again, but when I do, I will probably be a little more accepting.

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Surfing with my girls is the best thing in the world.  And I've accepted the fact that not only are they getting better than me, they don't seem to have any limits!  I love it and am inspired by them all the time. 

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