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Topics - luke25

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Channel Islands MX 6'6 x 19 x 2.5 squash tail for trade.   SOLD

It's got an ultralight glass job which means the board's ultra light for those who want to fly... but also means it's got pressure dents on the deck and a couple on the bottom. OAM tailpad. small ding on corner of tail was well repaired but left a tiny spot of discoloration. patch on the bottom slightly discolored too.

Hoping to trade for a biggish retro fish or a thick and wide modern fish

or if none of that happens, I'd sell for $275

pix @[email protected]/...57602531463525/

going with my wife for vacation, to look at the volcano, and do some hiking/camping.  hoping to score a few waves too.   any thoughts on good spots and/or good places to rent a board for a few days?  flying into Hilo, leaving from Kailua - Kona.  I've already done plenty of research, I'm just wondering if anyone has tips based on first hand experience.   Thanks.  - Luke

Buy and Sell: The Surfboard Exchange on / FS: gloves and suit
« on: November 16, 2005, 01:56:48 PM »
3mm billabong L/XL gloves brand new last fall, worn only once before I put on the 5 mm lobster claws.  Good gloves but I've got other 3 mils now that are better for my really thin fingers.

5/4 xcel titanium size M zipperless entry hooded wintersuit.  Several years old but in very good condition.  always rinsed in fresh water.  Not made of any super modern hyper stretchy material but pretty darn flexible in the arms for paddling.  Fits me perfectly and I'm 5'11'' and change, 165 pounds. Would not work for anyone much bigger.  I'm the second owner and I don't need it anymore cause I just got a new wintersuit.   This would be a good first winter suit or for somone with a limited budget.  $70

Also  size L black long sleeve OAM rash guard worn 10 times , excellent condition $10

I'm in Manhattan and surf Rock, LB, sometimes north Jersey.

email [email protected]  let's make a deal

There for my best friend's wedding so all surfing was confined to the very early hours with no chance to travel north around the corner to VC for some Northwest swell, or even to get to topanga point, which looked like it was working long waist high rights every time I drove by on the way to topanga canyon state park doing a wedding preparation mission (it was in the park, which is beautiful).

Stayed right on the beach in Santa Monica at the Bayside Motel, corner of Bay Street (one of the named breaks in town) and Ocean Ave.  It's a nice place to stay and couldn't be closer to the break.  $100/night for 3 adults in a room without a view (we could chill at a plastic table in front of the hotel to get the view. Nice rooms for a very simple looking Cali beach motel. That's where I will stay everytime I go back to LA from now on.

 Rented a beat up 8' Stewart Hydro Glide from Bangs Hair Salon on the corner of Main and Bay (a 45 second walk from the hotel and across bay street from Horizons West, a real surf shop that says they only rent soft tops.)  Bangs Hair Salon (and surf board and bike rental) is very odd.  I was in there 3 times and never saw anyhair cutting goind on, just lots (like 50!) of really beat up boards ranging from 9' to grom thrusters.  The guy who owns the place is _very_ weird.  I sense drugs or a clinical psychiatric diagnosis.   But it was open at 7;30 AM so when I woke up , looked out the window and saw waist high glassy beach breach right outside the hotel I was stoked to rent a real board and get in the water fast.

The stewart was perfect for the conditions, which everyone called flat (although on the weekend there were literally a couple hundred surfers stretched down Santa Monica Beach).  I guess flat in CA means knee to waist and really smooth.  The sets took some waiting but gave up some good waist high rights and lefts, and just being out there at dawn every day with the sunrise reflected in the glassy waves as they walled up going down a right ... well it was all just fine.  Lovely mountains past the amusement pier to the north, all glowing golden in dawn light.  Water was 60 degrees, air chilly predawn, toasty as soon as the sun came up.  I wore boots cause I have a sprained ankle that I taped up with duct tape which I didn't want to get all gritty, but almost no one else had boots and no one wore gloves.  I wanted to move there immediately.  The water smelled kind of bad where it was shallower than chest deep, and everyone was complaining about how polluted it was after a few days of rain just before I got there....  Go Surfrider!

Conclusions:  I want to move to CA.  I commuted 90 seconds to the water instead of 110 minutes in New York.  I surfed everyday.  It cost $80 to rent a board for 4 days, so I think next time I'll invest in a travel bag and bring my own, although if I'd needed it it would have been nice to use the option of trading in the 8'0 for something shorter.   I really want to surf a real california point break like topanga, Malibu, maybe rincon someday ... even with small waves Topanga looked so fun...   

Hoping to get out to LB or JZ this weekend!

what's the deal with those 6 channel shortboards?  why? how?  what for?  why not?  just curious.

Stories of Stoke: The Aloha Room / stoked!
« on: September 08, 2005, 01:08:03 PM »
this morning was nice.  best waves i've seen in months, and despite being out of practice in decent sized groundswell I caught a few nice ones on my shortboard.  learning to surf continues to be a treat.  :)

wanted: size L spring suit or long arm spring suit

actually I might also consider just a neoprene top instead


Stories of Stoke: The Aloha Room / what i did on my summer vacation
« on: August 16, 2005, 08:52:43 AM »
I'm stoked so I just thought i'd share a little stoke.  not sure why anyone else cares because it wasn't an epic surf vacation or anything ... but here it goes anyways. (stop reading here if you're looking for tales of tropical reef breaks and giant swells.)

After traveling for work every week since April and missing a lot of swells I vowed to spend as much as possibile of my two week vacation with my wife in and around water:

Aug 2 started by trying to camp in the "wilderness" area down the beach from a national parks ferry landing on FI.  super hot weather. swam 3 times by the time we got the tent up.  nice evening. then the mosquitioes hit. unbelievable. worst i've ever experienced. so many bites through the tent from where my body was touching the side in my sleep.  not much sleep that night.

Aug 3 next morning the green heads were just as bad as the mosquitoes.  couldn't get anything done that required two hand because they would just swarm you and seemed undeterred by deet ... so we bailed.  but not before a really fun low tide 1 1/2 hour solo session on super clean long waist high peelers with my 8'4".  so slotted on some that I started trying cheater fives even though that board is shaped like a gigantic shortboard with lots of rocker. almost got it!  so fun.  We had a borrowed car so Mindy suggested that we drive out to the end of the island where we'd never been.  nearly 100 degree day.  drove to the end, looked at the lighthouse.  scoped some famous breaks (not enough swell)  went swimming.  so refreshing.  decided to shell out for a great room right on the beach in town.  awesome evening relaxing on the deck looking at the ocean.

Aug 4  breakfast overlooking the beach, a little reading, a morning swim.  this is really starting to feel like vacation.  waited around for low tide, went and checked the break where they always hold contests.  looked a little crowded and not so great.  found a really nice long walling waist high left just off the beach back in town and just glided down the line to the beach for an hour on the old 8'4.  big smiles.  local groms and grommettes are ripping there! drove back to the city stoked.

Aug 5 rent car, drive to New Hampshire.  Stop to meet some friends and eat the the best pizza of my life (not kidding) at Frank Pepe's in New Haven.  Oops, i'm name dropping spots now, but you've gotta try this brick oven pizza.  long lines so go early for dinner.      northern New Hampshire smells nice.  good to see my aunt and uncle in littleton.

Aug 6 mini triathalon that my cousin and his wife put on every year in Franconia to benefit the franconia kids rec department.  super fun family day with a handful of serious athletes using it as training.  6 mile uphill bike ride, second half of which is off-road on rocky trails with lots of mud.  1/2 mile swim across echo lake with beautiful granite cliffs around it (turns out i'm such a stronger swimmer now than I was before I learned to surf!)  2 1/2 mile jog/hike up Cannon mountain, a pretty steep ski mountain right next to the lake. all so pretty and fun and clean.  nice change from the city.  spent the afternoon kayaking, dozing on a floating raft and learning to water ski on a lake next to my cousin's cabin outside town.  Fun! wondered later why my legs felt so tired...

Aug 7 basically spent the day water skiiing, including skurfing behind the boat with my 7'0" Byrne fun board that I had along for reasons that will become clear later.  So fun and so easy!  You can really rip some turns when you've got 28 mph of centrifugal force to lean into. Everyone who tried rode it first try even though none of the new hampshire folks had ever stood on a surfboard.  eventually drove to Cape Cod in the evening to stay at my parents' place. 

Aug 8 spent the day relaxing and learning how to take care of my 90 year old grandmother (who my parents take care of in their house).  she has pretty advanced parkinson's disease and just about the only thing she can do on her own is get a fork to her mouth.  can't get up or down from any seating position, can't even adjust her body at all while lying in bed, so she needs some help from somebody at minimum every 45 minutes all day and often contiuously for an hour or so.  got to swim in cape cod bay that day.  painfully cold! but lovely clear water

AUG 9 and 10  Gave my parents a couple days off so they could go somewhere together on their own.  Took care of grandma with help from home health aids who come for the overnights.  It was actually pretty relaxing and we managed to do some reading, a little kayaking, and enjoyed spending time with gram, who has good moments when she can converse pretty well, especially about the old days growing up on the farm in north Dakota in a pretty isolated German speaking comminuty  Her mind is all there, it's just her body that doesn't work.  She does pretty well with her situation but it's still sad and for myself I hope i go quickly long before i get to that point.

aug 11   went out to stay with my mother-in-law in chatham on Cape cod.  First stop: family picnic out on nauset where you get there by driving through the dunes with a 4wd and a town resident permit.  high tide but i still found a nice thigh high roller to get some little rides with the 7'0.  several seals checked me out from pretty close up (30 feet?)  so cool and so curious. water was 59 degrees! my hands hurt... i'm such a wuss.   spent the evening back at home playing hiding and chasing games with a 9 year old boy who is currently attached to the family (long story).  mans, kids are more tiring than surfing!

aug 12 kayaking and swimming in tidal marsh creeks in the morning, couple hours surfing small but clean and occasionally lined up low tide waves at a beach on the national seashore. beautiful huge dune behind.  managed to get in a few turns.  nice to be in the water, which was 65 and trunkable on this day.

aug 13 taught my mother-in-law how to sail a laser (small 1 or 2 person sailboat like a sunfish but faster).  plenty of lying around reading and cooking and eating.  more swimming in the bath-warm southern bays of chatham (it's amazing how it's 10 degrees warmer just 5 miles away from the outer cape.)  did I mention that we've been sleeping at least 8 hours and usually 10 every night?  that's a vacation.

aug 14 back to the national seashore for a morning surf in weak but clean thigh highs.  waited around for low tide and caught a few long rights including crouching and getting covered up more than i ever have (just by white water breaking, not a hollow crest) and pulling through.  that was fun. water was 60 degrees again.

aug 15 morning kayaking in the tidal creeks around osprey nests and great blue herons.  epic 2 person kick ball game with the 9 year old.  caught a bus back to the city. totally rested and refreshed and ready to get back to work.  oh yeah, and also feeling stronger and eager for the next real swell down here (I've still never caught the Cape bigger than waist high...). 
Bring on Jose!

see you in the water,

so this is where everybody is...


go away for a little while and everything changes.

Thanks for the new site to whoever is the initiator.

Also, ahhh, because I just surfed for the first time in 3 weeks.    ahhh.

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