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Topics - jboosted92

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Hola peoples...


So I surf Delmarva area, but this forum has a more robust following, so figured i could get some help :), and given the similarities in beach breaks, figured some advice/support


So i started surfing on a 9' foot board and have transititioned my way now to a Triple Stringer 7'6" Mini mal board. As expected with the 9 foot board, i was able to catch the wave a bit earlier, but with the 7'6", i have to get into the pocket a bit later.  So far about 10 sessions in , here is my question/predicament...


I noticed on average wave days, i improved my pop up techinque by using a style similar to this (
SURFPRO TECHNIQUES: PERFECT YOUR POP UP ) , where i extend the arms, "very small pause" then bring my feet underneath me, ( as oppose to popping "up" )


Issue is, when the waves get steep....it doesnt even have to be a big day 3-4 feet, on this d**n s***ty sandbar... the waves can peak and pitch. I dont believe i have the luxury of popping up like the above, because the wave doesnt have time for this patience...lol...


Althletically speaking, i have the flexibiilty strength and speed to pop up fast. I have increased my paddle power. I see guys on shortboards catch this steep ones and get into the wave fast and maybe get a bottom turn before it closes out... im good at paddling into waves, but wondering about my "technique" .... chest position, chin down..etc..


So far, if i also noticed, if i do those "Extra couple paddles" i end up to far down the face, and when i pop up, the wave lost its power, but if i pop up to soon.....then im riding hte top of the wave trying to use my front foot to bounce it down over the wave or go for a dump :)...


im not one to ever blame it on "Board" or "tough waves" , especially if i see guys riding 5 11's making the drop....


any tips?

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