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Messages - jboosted92

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Ok, sort of long post with mixed in questions. Would appreciate responses to them!

Before my session today (3 hours Chest high, relatively clean) . i wrote down and (Crammed) these items into my brain

1. Chin Down, when paddling into wave
2. Legs up ( try kicking if necessary. Ensure feet are together consistently *Feet Together, i believe i may have been slacking in this and had my feet wider and my knees)
3. Catch the wave a bit later....less paddles...Always have eye on the wave.
4. Wave Selection. Be picky, only take off on waves where im near the power pocket or on larger ones, close enough
5. Extra Paddle even once caught.
6. Angle when necessary, especially if wave looked like a peeler ( angled wave out of pocket, as oppose to typical closeout)
7. look down the line

Sooo my results of this...

1. Definitely rewarded. Caught more waves than my last session.
2. Conditions were good. Pre-Low tide, some waves got sloppy with minimal peak, so i tried not to waste my energy.
3. Looking down the line. I think i finally have this drilled home. The only time i caught my self looking down, was if during my pop up i was caught on the lip, trying to "press it down"... otherwise my head was always looking down the line or back to see if someone inside
4. Kicking = kicking ensured my feet where together ( kind of hard to kick with knees apart), i feel this helped transfer weight forward as well..



1. Chin down. THis may sound like a dumb question, but i felt sometimes when i was chin down and powering into the wave, there was a ton of water moving around I was then blinded by the water..... this common? maybe i was too far up on board regardless? Other guys in the break today, "appeared" to not have this issue"
2. Being a beach break as everyone noted....not all waves the second you can catch a wave at Spot X, with 5-6 paddles, the Next at Spot Y, with 2 paddles.... other than experience and wave watching, any tips on this?
3. Paddling : I dont think im the best in the world, but im Strong as F, i paddle hard as SH1t....but im wondering if im not as" effcient" as others
4. Time in water: When im not surfing, im training... I feel like Jello arms on "fair/good" days come at about Hour 3-4, depending on day. I would like to be able to be in the water 5-6... is 3-4 hours normal? good for now? improvable?

appreciate it... i love to surf...if im not in the water, im training, (gym, pool ,balance).... always trying to advance. living 150 miles from shore, has its difficuilties, but i make it work

How old are you? When did you start surfing? Unfortunately, there tends to be an age limit to learning some of the finer points of surfing, like surfing barreling shorebreak waves. If you started learning as an adult, your energy might be better committed to finding less critical waves. This may sound harsh, or like i'm just trying to be an asshole, but I am being sincere. Taking off under the curtain in NJ/Delmarva type surf is a serious skill that most all the guys that can do it developed as youngsters. There are just too many variables for learning on the east coast where you don't get enough chance to practice. Yes, you might be able to angle in. . .until you can't, because the conditions call for a straight take off to lightning quick bottom turn and snap into the pocket.

If you can spend some months at a consistent, steep, break somewhere else in the world, then I think it's probably possible to learn even as an adult.

I follow you, and i dont take it that way....  im in my 30s, and one determined M-F'r.... i figure i will get in the water ( Delmarva + surf trips) about 140 days a year..... first trip is Costa Rica in June for 3.5 weeks... hope that helps!! :)

thanks for tips...

as for angle.... talking 10-15% ? Paddle into the angle, right off the peak?

Hola peoples...

So I surf Delmarva area, but this forum has a more robust following, so figured i could get some help :), and given the similarities in beach breaks, figured some advice/support

So i started surfing on a 9' foot board and have transititioned my way now to a Triple Stringer 7'6" Mini mal board. As expected with the 9 foot board, i was able to catch the wave a bit earlier, but with the 7'6", i have to get into the pocket a bit later.  So far about 10 sessions in , here is my question/predicament...

I noticed on average wave days, i improved my pop up techinque by using a style similar to this (
SURFPRO TECHNIQUES: PERFECT YOUR POP UP ) , where i extend the arms, "very small pause" then bring my feet underneath me, ( as oppose to popping "up" )

Issue is, when the waves get doesnt even have to be a big day 3-4 feet, on this d**n s***ty sandbar... the waves can peak and pitch. I dont believe i have the luxury of popping up like the above, because the wave doesnt have time for this

Althletically speaking, i have the flexibiilty strength and speed to pop up fast. I have increased my paddle power. I see guys on shortboards catch this steep ones and get into the wave fast and maybe get a bottom turn before it closes out... im good at paddling into waves, but wondering about my "technique" .... chest position, chin down..etc..

So far, if i also noticed, if i do those "Extra couple paddles" i end up to far down the face, and when i pop up, the wave lost its power, but if i pop up to soon.....then im riding hte top of the wave trying to use my front foot to bounce it down over the wave or go for a dump :)...

im not one to ever blame it on "Board" or "tough waves" , especially if i see guys riding 5 11's making the drop....

any tips?

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