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Messages - Igotsoul4u

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Belmar was great today...unfortunately I was not.  It was way bigger then I thought it would be.  Not the easiest waves to figure out.  Most were not great, but some were insanely perfect.  I was undergunned a little bit.  Still had 3 long fast rides that made my day.  I haven't surfed decent waves in soooo long. 

I know we have some serious bodyboarders lurking around.  I have been sponging a lot as my right shoulder has made surfing not so much fun.  I was wondering what kind of things I should not be doing.  I wonder about things like kicking while on the wave (more so in small surf.)  Another example is how I wasn't putting my hands in the right spots on the board.  Drop knee is another mystery.  What are some other things that you see that make you think "that guy has no clue."   

I crashed badly in Hurricane Bill roughly 10 years ago.  I hit the bottom and didn't think much of it over then not being surprised it hurt.  The problem was that I kept surfing for a few months and things progressively got worse to the point that my shoulder was frozen.  I did not end up getting surgery and physical therapy helped immensely but it took a year to get to the therapy part.  I have scaled back my surfing by quite a bit saving my shoulder for days when it's stomach or more and not windy as all hell.  I have also been body boarding a ton which has grown on me as I have been getting better.  It definitely sucks, but crossing over that recovery threshold requires a lot of wisdom to not learn the hard way like me.  All I needed to do is stay out of the water for a few months and it would have been much less of an issue.

damn!! i actually meant to have that as an option.  Not sure why it wasn't on their.  That was my main justification for downloading....I mean how many times do i need to buy def leppard "hysteria"

i love body surfing.  my wife grabbed this shot.  I got so nicely barreled on a bunch of them.

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