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Messages - Homeslice

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Anyone know when the beach patrol calls it quits on the weekends at r**k?  Would like to bring out my dog on to the beach but not sure if this is allowed during the summer. 


Out there - hope all of you scored.  Drooling over here behind the desk.  :-[

Fun morning - wasn't too cold with a 4/3.  Hopefully something will be left for tom morn. 

I'm heading out tomorrow morning to NS3, hopefully something will be there and not so crappy. 

I'll be the one in a wetsuit.  ::)

the water will have a funky ripple in it when it passes over the spikes.

Talking about funky ripple - it seems like there's some funky backwash in the area to the right of the first set of death spikes after they cut some of it down.  Now it just closes out and makes for one bouncy ride.  If the main peak was too crowded, I would paddle down to the spikes but it seems like that area got screwed up.

I used to bitch about those death sticks but I've gotten used to them now so I say leave them as it is.  Gives the place character.

I've got O'neil superfreak 5MM - will be good for nov/dec/jan and further on.  I prefer round toe (keep all my piggies together) - hate split toe as it feels like they don't really get that warm. 

Do you really want to watch some person on a longboard poomanstancing his way down the line on a Winter wave just cuz you can relate?

Hahaha - Fair point my friend, fair point.  I still get a few chuckle out of seeing beginners doing the "poomanstance" or the stinkbug, it reminds me of when I started awhile back. I'll def check out the titles you mentioned.  Thanks.

I'm sure the movie is good/well made but I'd rather see film about east coast where I can relate more to.  Show me clips of epic swells that pop-up every once in-a-blue moon or guys soldiering through on harsh winter months or that one guy/gal who doesn't give a rats ass about style or points but just wants to be out there for the love of water and surfing. 

If that blurring of the vision doesn't go away in a couple of days - you might want to get it checked out just in case.   :-\

I for am one
Maybe those Depends© under garments will actually come in handy if I lose all control of my bodily functions in the roiling seas. I knew they were a good investment.

I WHOLEHEARTEDLY AGREE W PSYCHO. If challenging conditions are new to you, don't be a hero. I used to feel compelled to paddle out in anything when I was a kid because I felt like a big wuss in front of others if I didn't. I looked far sillier getting shut down in shorepoud for an hour. Nothing wrong with not paddling out if you feel uncomfortable. There are surfers on this board who prett damn good, but sit it out when it gets nutty. Not wussy. Just smart.

Know the ledge.

I for am one of those that will be sitting out on this one (due to family obligations - pathetic excuse).

Please, please, please take extreme caution - getting caught up on a strong rip and getting pounded non-stop is damn right scary and fatal.  What people, new and experienced forget is that the water is much colder and you will get exhausted much faster, especially with the strong rip. 

You need to have one of those 'come to Jesus' moments and be real about what your getting yourself in to.  If you have doubts, don't go in. 

There's gonna be heavy rip and honking winds blowing at 30MPH - do not head out  if you are not heavily experienced surfing in these conditions.  You might think it'll be cool to tell your friends that you surfed but it won't be that cool when they're attending your funeral because you got ahead of yourself.   :-X

Cleanlines in Oregon carries a great suit by Hotline built for ladies who surf in the cold.

I've ordered suits from there before - great service, great people.  They actually wrote me a handwritten thank you note and threw in some candy in the box that my suit came in. 

I like to think that I'm a decent surfer but that's far from the truth, especially after watching other folks out in the water.  Few weeks back, I headed down to dirty jersey (land of the rights) and was totally humbled at my inability to surf rights and made me realize that if I'm going to improve slightest bit and take advantage of the conditions we get up here, I need to learn how to go left AND right.

It's bad enough that rides here are typically short and most likely, there's few people already on it/dropping in so you can't do much, the inconsistency of the swells we get just makes it damn near impossible to improve.  When we do get those few swells out of the year and I'm on it - I don't even think about trying to improve my bottom turns or floaters, etc (not that I can do them) - all I'm focused on is trying to make my ride as long as possible and absorb every nano-seconds of the 'feeling' because it might be another week, two weeks, months before I get another decent ride. 

I wish I could improve on lot of the skills that other folks on this msg board have but I just can't afford the risk of blowing a ride on trying to do something better. I'm desperate like a crack whore to get that 'feeling' and my fix for the week, month.  Especially given the work schedule, family obligations, etc - rides are few and far in between, plus you gotta respect the other surfers out there and try to share the waves though sometimes it's tough to do when others aren't doing the same. 

But once I get that one good ride, man, there's just no other feeling like it and my mind set completely changes and all seems well till the next day....

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