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Messages - Bru

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Hi Debbie I would go with a 4/3mm full suit . If you get the backzip models they are easy to take on and off.


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I got it and it looks very good, thanks for the suggestion!

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Nice. Tyler's like Midas,  everything he touches turns to stoke.  Big man with an even bigger heart. Home sick as a dog today, this really picked me up.


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Stories of Stoke: The Aloha Room / Thankful and thoughtful
« on: October 06, 2015, 12:26:16 PM »
Missed most of the Joaquin swell due to work and illness.  Finally got to hit it right today, and man was it awesome.  A well overhead two wave set came and was feathering for 30 yards on some outer sandbar I'd never seen touch a wave before, like a mini outer reef Pipe.  And there was no fool there to mess it up.  It's incredible that you can walk down the beach and do this.  You ride dragons, and then you come in for breakfast.

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I gotta say, that was a bold tube by DeSouza.  It would have been more impressive with a classy JJF no-claim exit, but that was pretty heavy.

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The Samsung shoot took place in Rockaway, actually.  (I produced the NY shoot and did the location scouting and casting.) I warned them it would be a lake when they wanted to film here and it was. Not so much as a ripple.  It was shot by Greg Fraser ("Zero Dark Thirty") (though I wish it had been me.)

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It wasn't bad at all...just chafed a little skin off. If I'd let it go a bit longer they told me I could have lost a leg or worse. Will have to amend my standard rule of thumb which was "Ignore it, it always works out."

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Stack is up now.  Not the biggest wave but he just pulled a crazy in and out and in the barrel that I can't believe he made.  I don't know if people picture him on the top shelf or not but damned if he doesn't pull off crazy stuff sometimes that few will attempt.  The man charges.

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Some good ol' Jersey recreational activities on display.


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Has to be said, at least for points west, that the can of RAID sprayed by the ACOE on 90 St scattered the roaches, many of whom were previously quite content to spend days measuring d*cks by the rocks...


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To take on your issue about not leaning into the turn. Maybe there's another side of this to look at.

How do you turn a bicycle sharply to the right?  It might sound odd unless you've already thought about it, but the way you start a turn to the right is actually by turning slightly to the left.  That commits you to lean to the right, and when you turn the handlebars to catch your fall, there's your right turn.  It's such a counterintuitive and subtle thing, we may not even realize it, and yet we all do it.

Enter Buttons (RIP).  Watch what the nose of the board does just before he bottom turns (at :49, :52, etc).  Same thing or no?

If this part is obvious or I've totally misunderstood, then I've wasted both of our time.  Ah well, in that case at least you get a nice Buttons clip out of the deal.

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Well you can blame/thank me for some of this...I produced the NY scenes in the spot. All shot by Greig Fraser (Zero Dark Thirty). Took pains to cast a halfway decent local surfer and OF COURSE it was flat as a pancake when we did the Rockaway shots...


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