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Messages - adamlesper

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This year also had Gert and that other non named swell the week after Dirt Mc'Gert.


After trying unsuccessfully to sell a few boards to open up some rack space I have decided its probably best to give at least 1 board away to a young surfer who maybe can't afford one.   

The problem is I don't know any young stoked kids.  If anyone knows of any deserving grommets (friend, niece, nephew) let me know and I can arrange to get the board to them.  I live in Port Wash.

It's a 6'4 custom short board shaped by a rincon local who makes quality craft.  The board is still in good shape.

in your opinion which locale has the better surf, better breaks and better surfers all-around?

Trolling Level = Expert

Looks like Wed and Thurs should be running.  RD 2, HT 10 has M.Ho, Bruce and Reyes..

I'm not worried about overcrowding because in 6months most surfing will be in wave pools.  We'll have the ocean waves to ourselves.

That run of 15 consecutive days of surf was fun last fall.  Surfing in NY on a super warm Christmas day (70 degrees) was also kinda cool. 

Going where the waves are is the way to go but I find it difficult to get more than 18-22 travel surf days in a year.  If I could increase that to 30 I'd be much happier.

Looks like surfline plans to publish trace details of peoples sessions at certain spots on the report for that spot.  With the persons name/trace profile. The fact that I think this is crazy makes me feel old. 

Thats 150+ days in the water without even taking trips..  I call that a good year.

Bought it for my 18mo old for xmas.  My 5 year old reads it to her.  Epic..

Never seen guys rip sunset like this.  They are whipping around semi-guns like they are shortboards. 

Finnegan did a podcast on "the New Yorker Radio Hour" with the magazine's editor, David Remnick.  He takes him  for his firs ever surf.  A rockaway morning session.  Finnegan's comments about what is going on in the water are priceless.

As good as those wavegarden (snowdonia, etc) pools are getting they will never be able to recreate the experience of the last few days.


Might be tough going around rounding up anyone who looks like a hipster, lotta locals could get caught in that net..

maybe implement hipster tax? like per fedora or something.