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Special Interests - Surfing New York and New Jersey => Stories of Stoke: The Aloha Room => Topic started by: Psycho on July 25, 2005, 06:43:42 AM

Title: You can learn from a Kook.
Post by: Psycho on July 25, 2005, 06:43:42 AM
Bride-of-Psycho paddled out on my other longboard & tried to chil & get used to being back in the water from Her Loooooooong hiatus. ( for those that dont know her story) She was at a place called Tacones in PR & got drilled on a pretty heavy day, BBing with us & got her fin stuck in the reef after getting crushed on a nasty set, she got effed up rolling all over the reef once the fin finally broke & she nearly drowned. I couldnt find her & I about lost my mind that day & when she popped up in the white wash I watched her gasping for air & getting drilled by the sets rolling onto the reef directly where she was cought. She didnt go back in the water after that for almost a year & a half. Very psychological. she couldnt even look at the waves if they were bigger than a waste high day. She didnt even swim she was so tramatized & for the last month or so she has watched us surf & she started getting the bug back. She paddled out on a longboard just to float out in the water & try to get over some fear but it was a lil bigger than she wanted it to be with waste high sets bouncing her around but she did it anyway.

She was really nervouse & just chillin past the line up out of everyones way. NYHC found a lil red Balloon & paddled it out to her. That was a nice jesture & she felt like she had everyones support. Then about a month later she got back on her Boog & had a great time in some waste high shore break with a few of us & then it changed, she was all stoked & wanting to get back in again. Saturday, she paddles out on a longboard with us & it was a nice small but clean day & I pushed her into the 1rst wave comming her way. She didnt quite understand where to be on the board so she kinda pearled a lil. I showed her once where to go & she was all set, next wave I gave a her a lil shove into the wave, she paddled & I saw her arch her back, slide up & wahlah! She pops up & rides the wave on her 1rst shot of longboarding! after that she cought about 4 more  2 with out help from me pushing her in, yesterday, it was choppy, way to overcrowded for a knee to thigh high day & she wwent it anyway. Paddles the slop on her own & pops on up like she was ridin a bike. she cought a few waves & then got out.

I asked her where ya going? she says, " I gotta quite while Im ahead." she was doing so well so I say hey come on back out its fun & she says, "All I hear is you guys getting frustrated by the crowds, yelling at people & coming out of the water with stories of Kooks. I just had a really good time & rode some really fun waves, I dont wanna come out of the water ever saying Uhg, this sucks, It took me a year & a half to get back in here, i dont want anything negetive to screw that up. Im so stoked right now!"

Her wisdom floored me, I just gave her a big ole kiss & said how proud I was of her. You really can learn something from a Kook with a reeeeaaaaaalllly nice butt.
Title: Re: You can learn from a Kook.
Post by: little_nasty on July 25, 2005, 07:12:01 PM
yaaayyy!!  cool story !! thanks for that and good for her!
Title: Re: You can learn from a Kook.
Post by: Mims on July 25, 2005, 09:46:50 PM
Great story!! ;D
Title: Re: You can learn from a Kook.
Post by: skSURF on July 26, 2005, 11:13:53 AM
That was a much better story then mine. I removed it in shame. I had a few to many drinks.
Title: Re: You can learn from a Kook.
Post by: veggielasagna on July 26, 2005, 11:40:57 AM
she told me about her session the other night.......very happy for her.  soon enough she will switch from saying "I gotta quit while I'm ahead" to "just one more wave then I'll get out"
Title: Re: You can learn from a Kook.
Post by: Psycho on July 27, 2005, 06:59:05 AM
LOL!! I know, yall know me, how many times did I promise I was getting out after this next wave becuase I promised I would go home early to do some chores or something I promised jess I would do & ended up staying like 4 hours longer? Well she will sonn understand. ;D
Title: Re: You can learn from a Kook.
Post by: happy on July 27, 2005, 10:10:13 AM
go Private Parts! (sorry, i still gotta call her that)

life is really easy when your signif. other surfs too. i was out until after dark last wednesday, RD had gone in long before me (or so i thought) and i had jokingly told him to make dinner. as i caught lots of fun little peelers i kept thinking, "am i being a bitch? should i get out?" and then i realized, HELL NO! RD would do the same to me! eff him!
heh-heh

Title: Re: You can learn from a Kook.
Post by: Psycho on July 27, 2005, 10:13:56 AM
LOL!!!! thats funny. Like that couple in PR arguing becuase she had to work on a day there was waves & he had off & had his board loaded up ready to go. BB & SS do the same thing, lol!
Title: Re: You can learn from a Kook.
Post by: happy on July 27, 2005, 10:55:40 AM
i love surfing with RD, he's my favorite surf buddy, but i do better when its just the 2 of us (and maybe a few other folks). once the break gets crowded then i get all bitchy and i'm like "you took my wave!"
Title: Re: You can learn from a Kook.
Post by: Sandshark on July 27, 2005, 11:07:18 AM
No offense to BB, but my fave surf partners are Kazu and Cheyenne.  I'm gonna miss em both soooo much when they head back home.   :-[
Title: Re: You can learn from a Kook.
Post by: veggielasagna on July 27, 2005, 11:44:09 AM
cheyenne is my favorite person to surf with ( BB is #2)

really gonna miss our sat/sun dp sessions. what I wont miss is his eating all of my food at the shack  ;D
Title: Re: You can learn from a Kook.
Post by: Psycho on July 29, 2005, 12:31:27 PM
LOL! thats funny, he was a bottomless pit.

No offense to BB, but my fave surf partners are Kazu and Cheyenne.  I'm gonna miss em both soooo much when they head back home.   :-[

Wait Kazu is leavin too?
Title: Re: You can learn from a Kook.
Post by: Psycho on September 01, 2005, 10:00:49 AM
Again I cant say it enough. her ear to ear smile proved worthy of a thousand barrels this last wekend. When was the last time you smiled for the ENTIRE session? Awsome sweety!
Title: Re: You can learn from a Kook.
Post by: waialuasurfa on September 01, 2005, 11:52:11 PM
Again I cant say it enough. her ear to ear smile proved worthy of a thousand barrels this last wekend. When was the last time you smiled for the ENTIRE session? Awsome sweety!
I smiled on the inside for my past 4 sessions.
Just this a.m. I snagged a sweet overhead barrel.....
but nobody wants to hear that mess.
Title: Re: You can learn from a Kook.
Post by: little_nasty on September 02, 2005, 10:56:00 PM
heya-  i'm gonna be out at publics tomorrow early if you're around.
Title: Re: You can learn from a Kook.
Post by: waialuasurfa on September 03, 2005, 02:58:43 AM
You're here?!
That's pretty much my weekday DP spot. I'm teaching just up the street(Kaimuki HS). Be awares on the exposed reef at low tide by about 9am. Stay high on the face and kick out early if need be.
I'm hitting Panics/Incinerators tomorrow early then heading North to cruise/paddle/dive/bomb hills.
There will be a NICE South thru the weekend.
Join me if you can. Otherwise, Tues. Publics sesh(I'm assuming you're over in the Kaimuki area)?
You still got my #?
Hope to catch up with you.
Title: Re: You can learn from a Kook.
Post by: little_nasty on September 03, 2005, 04:36:30 AM
that's pretty much my home break when i'm here.. been surfing there for almost 30 years.  unfortunately, i know some of those coral heads pretty intimately.  we should compare lineups sometime, lol..

anyways, just got back from big island.  hit it yest & today - a few nice ones coming through.  i'm actually staying about a block away for now since g'mas is kinda hectic right now.  so i'll give you a call this wknd.
Title: Re: You can learn from a Kook.
Post by: waialuasurfa on September 03, 2005, 05:32:42 PM
Panics got good with the outgoing tide. A few overhead sets coming thru.
If you're up in the country, we'd love to have you over for a meal or some drinks.
Otherwise, hopefully we can hook up for a DP next week.
Title: Re: You can learn from a Kook.
Post by: Psycho on September 06, 2005, 12:08:35 PM
Oh man you 2 are the luckiest people in the world.