Author Topic: Score, and the world scores with you  (Read 1174 times)

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Offline NORTH_OF_NORCAL

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Score, and the world scores with you
« on: September 15, 2005, 01:01:52 AM »
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  • Score and the world scores with you.

    He had been to the jetty a number of times. Each time he went without his board, from the first time he saw it, to when he returned to show it to friends,  it was always working -- Clean, consistent waist to head high rumbling waves that began over a half a mile out to shore. Each time he walked out towards the end of the jetty where he could see the lineup, never more than ten or twelve people at a time, even when it was really working well. Everyone looked happy – there was stoke in the water, but it was a local stoke. Everyone seemed to know each other. Having recently relocated to the area, where wetsuits were mandatory year round and sharks were more of a reality than the place he had left, he was ready to connect with other surfers, ready to have someone else to surf with regularly. The people he had met were friendly enough, but he hadn’t seen the same person in the water twice.  Furthermore, each time he headed to the Jetty with his board, it wasn’t working. As time went on, his desire to surf this spot increased, along with his anxiety level.

    The more he spoke with other surfers, the more it became clear that the jetty was the heaviest break in the area. Those waves had power. Anyone unfortunate enough to eat it would have some time to contemplate mortality as they were held down well past the point of comfort, even on a shoulder high day. Yet, the jetty also offered solace in the form of a channel that gently pulled surfers out to the outside, with no paddling at all. It was funny to see surfers relaxing on their boards, being towed out as though on a grocery store conveyor belt. Still, when he checked it, he was skunked.

     As time went on and he surfed breaks north and south of the jetty, desire mixed with fear. He wanted to surf the jetty. He knew he could, but he was nervous. After a great session together up north on Saturday, he was ready to bring her back again on Sunday. On the first wave, she was skegged in the wrist, about an inch from her artery. Relieved, he felt a little guilty, made even more so by the fact that he felt bad about missing out on his session. On Tuesday, he woke up for work at 5:30 and put his board on the car. At work his whole day was hectic, from the 7 am staff meeting to the after school class at 3:10. When it was over, he headed west. Driving on to the beach, he finally saw it working. People were out. It looked fun. Board in hand, he walked out to the jetty and hopped in. Not ready to get back in the water again, she relaxed on the jetty with a blanket. It felt fun to have her there.

    Not two minutes after  he entered the water he caught a chest high left. After all the anticipation, he was actually shocked. No  one had been near it. He rode it about 100 feet, then pulled off. Paddling back out, he was caught inside. After getting pummeled for what felt like too long, he remembered the channel, and instead of heading west, he headed south, back to it. Within minutes he was in position again. Around him shortboarders and longboarders nodded their heads. Whereas he had always considered himself a lousy surfer. He was surprised to find that he did not feel out of his element. Maybe he wasn’t the tenth worst surfer in the world… maybe it was more like, the twentieth.

    He popped up quickly. Made small talk with the others. Gradually, he realized that he could surf this break. That he was loving this break. On one wave, he turned around to check the size. It was on of the larger waves he had ever ridden, nearly overhead and moving like a locomotive. He  cut back right and found himself in the channel again, shouting out to her, all joyous and caught up in the moment. She saw it and saw that it was good.   The day was gray, like most days he had surfed  out there. It was one part ominous, two parts pure exhilaration and a boyish glee that resulted in spontaneous singing. He was acting a little goofy, as was his nature, but he didn’t care. He was surfing the nearest spot to the house they had gone to contract on, and all was good.

    After an hour and a half, he asked her if he could take two more. As often happens, the “one or two more” led to a brief flat spell that seemed longer than it was. Finally a wave that a year earlier would have seemed large, but was significantly smaller than the others he was riding, peeled in. He caught it and rode it almost all the way in, turning left, then right, cautiously  walking out towards the nose, then jumping back. In further than he had entered the water off the jetty, he rode all the way to knee deep water. He remembered his longest ride of the day, one he almost hadn’t made, but one that sprayed foam off the top as he rode it down the line until he hopped off, laughing. He had been blessed, on his first session at the “other” jetty, the first of what he hoped were many  satisfying sessions. As he waded out of the water, the dogs who howled at the fog horn, who belonged to other surfers ran  up to him, eagerly hoping that this was their owner. He felt bad about disappointing them as he walked on back to the car. As he drove off the beach, he was happily composed by the spirit of the thing, at yet another challenge he had taken on in a matter of months, and how rewarding it was, all over again.

    Jake

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    Re: Score, and the world scores with you
    « Reply #1 on: September 15, 2005, 09:31:42 AM »
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  • awww how nice of u to write a story about me...  ;D

    glad to hear ur scoring some bro

    Offline PTSD

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    Re: Score, and the world scores with you
    « Reply #2 on: September 18, 2005, 08:15:49 AM »
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  • after reading that, everything tells me you guys made the right friggin move. Good on you. I hope you're both doing great.

    Offline Årne Longbörgenssen

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    Re: Score, and the world scores with you
    « Reply #3 on: September 18, 2005, 08:36:33 AM »
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  • aunt judy would be proud
    The energy contained in one kilogram of thorium
    equals four thousand tons of coal

    Psycho

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    Re: Score, and the world scores with you
    « Reply #4 on: September 19, 2005, 10:30:32 AM »
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  • Awsome, just awsome.

    waialuasurfa

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    Re: Score, and the world scores with you
    « Reply #5 on: September 19, 2005, 10:48:22 PM »
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  • That's stoke.

    Offline krut

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    Re: Score, and the world scores with you
    « Reply #6 on: September 20, 2005, 09:10:52 AM »
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  • YEEEEEEHAAAAAAWWWW BRUDDA MAN!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

    That's an awesome story dude. thanks for telling it.