Author Topic: First wave = Best wave?  (Read 563 times)

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Offline Uncle Buck

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First wave = Best wave?
« on: August 03, 2010, 01:25:30 PM »
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  • I was wondering if anyone else does this. I had not surfed for about a month because of a bruised/cracked rib. Friday after work my buddy talked me in to going out. Not much of anything but my first wave, I caught and road all the way in. (BTW, this is about as good as I get). Then for the next 1/2 hour I might have caught 2 or 3 more. After about an hour I sort of got back into the groove.
     
    This happened to me in Costa Rica. First wave in the Pacific I caught. Then I struggled for 1/2 to 1 hour. Then got back in the groove. And again this morning, same thing. This is definately a pattern for me.
     
    Does this happen to anyone else? What am I doing wrong?
     
    Anyone else get in this morning? It was choppy/windy but I caught a few nice ones a few blocks west of Mr. Cliff.
     
    -UB
    « Last Edit: August 03, 2010, 04:19:03 PM by Uncle Buck »
    "You can't stop the waves but you can learn to surf" - Zinn, Jon Kabat

    "My life is like a stroll on the beach...as near to the edge as I can go." - Thoreau

    Offline SeaCliff

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    Re: First wave = Best wave?
    « Reply #1 on: August 03, 2010, 01:39:08 PM »
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  • I've had plenty of sessions that my best waves came early, but I generally chalked that up to either conditioning or just overall being overtired even before I paddled out. I've also had sessions where what happens early seemed to dictate what was to follow, But your pattern of Good wave then dry spell then finding the groove does sound a little unusual.
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    Offline Uncle Buck

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    Re: First wave = Best wave?
    « Reply #2 on: August 03, 2010, 04:32:01 PM »
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  • And when I say first wave, I mean first wave. Paddle out, turn around and paddle and catch it. It happens very quickly. Not sitting out on my board for a couple of sets to roll through. I very rarely blow my first wave. I feel good and paddle back out. Not tired or anything. Then I proceed to blow three or four waves in a row. Too far forward on the board, too far back. Too far out, too far in, to far east, too far west. Then I guess I figure it out again and am good for the rest of the session.
     
    I know I get a little nervous when other people are around. Even with the guys that I surf with often. But this happens if I am by myself the whole session or with others.
     
    I get a little frustrated with myself, but just when I am about to call it quits, I catch a good one and can't wait to get back out.
     
    I dont know.
     
    -UB
     
     
     
     
    "You can't stop the waves but you can learn to surf" - Zinn, Jon Kabat

    "My life is like a stroll on the beach...as near to the edge as I can go." - Thoreau

    braden

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    Re: First wave = Best wave?
    « Reply #3 on: August 03, 2010, 05:00:04 PM »
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  • do less..... :)


    Pop up and do less




    just kidding- I find I have the same trouble sometimes-but I think most of it is just in my head

    Offline Igotsoul4u

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    Re: First wave = Best wave?
    « Reply #4 on: August 03, 2010, 10:24:33 PM »
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  • one of my favorite Paul Rudd characters. 

    Offline Looseness

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    Re: First wave = Best wave?
    « Reply #5 on: August 03, 2010, 10:53:06 PM »
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  • And when I say first wave, I mean first wave. Paddle out, turn around and paddle and catch it. It happens very quickly. Not sitting out on my board for a couple of sets to roll through. I very rarely blow my first wave. I feel good and paddle back out. Not tired or anything. Then I proceed to blow three or four waves in a row. Too far forward on the board, too far back. Too far out, too far in, to far east, too far west. Then I guess I figure it out again and am good for the rest of the session.
     
    I know I get a little nervous when other people are around. Even with the guys that I surf with often. But this happens if I am by myself the whole session or with others.
     
    I get a little frustrated with myself, but just when I am about to call it quits, I catch a good one and can't wait to get back out.
     
    I dont know.
     
    -UB

    The first wave, you didn't have time to think, you just went. Then you started thinking and everything went to crap. You give up, then nail it again because you stopped thinking. Sound about right?
    It's no better to be safe than sorry....

    Offline GreenRoom

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    Re: First wave = Best wave?
    « Reply #6 on: August 03, 2010, 11:03:24 PM »
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  • That happens to me often (well, as often as I get out, anyway, which isn't often enough to get over it, I guess).  In fact last time out, first wave was great, then I was complete kook for about an hour.  And I was thinking why does that happen so often?  At least I'm not the only one.

    Offline N.F. Ee

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    Re: First wave = Best wave?
    « Reply #7 on: August 04, 2010, 05:27:19 AM »
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  • This would happen to me more when I was newer and did everything by accident. And yeah, not overanalyzing had a lot to do with nailing that first wave immediately.

    Actually, since for me, surfing is a progression, it's never totally mastered, and I'll be a kook at some stage of the process no matter what. So while I'm pretty good at reading waves and timing takeoffs, and ok at bottom turns, I'm godawful in getting in the pocket and generating speed. So that first lucky wave for me would be where I do everything right and zip down the line like a champ. Then that will be followed by poopouts after one pump, or not even one pump.

    Offline Crackie Onassis

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    Re: First wave = Best wave?
    « Reply #8 on: August 04, 2010, 07:53:38 AM »
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  • And remember, if you're not first. . . you're last.
    So heavy you can't even pick it up.

    Offline N.F. Ee

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    Re: First wave = Best wave?
    « Reply #9 on: August 04, 2010, 09:52:28 AM »
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  • And remember, if you're not first. . . you're last.
    Once you've got that down, it's time to ride with cougars...

    Offline sweeps

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    Re: First wave = Best wave?
    « Reply #10 on: August 04, 2010, 09:56:06 AM »
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  • And remember, if you're not first. . . you're last.
    Once you've got that down, it's time to ride with cougars...
    well, i got mauled by a cougar, learned nothin about driving, and wrecked my crystal gayle shirt.
    DOWN KAREN!
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    Offline Uncle Buck

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    Re: First wave = Best wave?
    « Reply #11 on: August 04, 2010, 10:29:07 AM »
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  • The first wave, you didn't have time to think, you just went. Then you started thinking and everything went to crap. You give up, then nail it again because you stopped thinking. Sound about right?

    I think you just nailed it!
     
    Thanks.
     
    UB
     
    PS. Forgetting Sarah Marshall is pretty awesome!
    "You can't stop the waves but you can learn to surf" - Zinn, Jon Kabat

    "My life is like a stroll on the beach...as near to the edge as I can go." - Thoreau

    braden

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    Re: First wave = Best wave?
    « Reply #12 on: August 04, 2010, 11:52:14 AM »
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  • yeah- I think Looseness got it just right- that sounds like the beginning of a lot of my sessions too

    Offline SeaCliff

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    Re: First wave = Best wave?
    « Reply #13 on: August 04, 2010, 11:56:52 AM »
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  • yeah- I think Looseness got it just right- that sounds like the beginning of a lot of my sessions too

    Yep. Line me up with the rest of the guilty - I think too much! New mantra: More surf, less thinking! (Yeah, that should last me about a minute and a half LOL)
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    Offline rockyveiga

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    Re: First wave = Best wave?
    « Reply #14 on: August 09, 2010, 09:45:51 PM »
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  • Buck, i can't even begin to tell you how many times this happens to me. i start over thinking it and everything turns to brown trout. my take off is wrong, my stance is off. specially now that i am trying a new board... the moment i dont think about it i find myself getting up in no time and having a blast. but also, remember (and i don't do this enough) but the more time in the water, the more that goes away.



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