Author Topic: Once upon a time, I was a surfer.  (Read 2641 times)

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Offline SeaCliff

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Once upon a time, I was a surfer.
« on: January 14, 2011, 08:02:21 AM »
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  • Maybe I will be one day again. But at the moment, it's looking like a long, cold, flat winter.


    ANZ350-142215-  MORICHES INLET NY TO MONTAUK POINT NY OUT 20 NM-  443 AM EST FRI JAN 14 2011    TODAY  NW WINDS 10 TO 15 KT. SEAS 2 TO 3 FT.    TONIGHT  NW WINDS 10 TO 15 KT...DIMINISHING TO 5 TO 10 KT AFTER  MIDNIGHT. SEAS 2 TO 3 FT.    SAT  W WINDS 5 TO 10 KT...BECOMING SW 10 TO 15 KT WITH GUSTS UP TO  25 KT IN THE AFTERNOON. SEAS 2 TO 4 FT.    SAT NIGHT  SW WINDS 20 TO 25 KT. SEAS 4 TO 7 FT. A CHANCE OF LIGHT  SNOW.    SUN  W WINDS 15 TO 20 KT WITH GUSTS UP TO 25 KT. SEAS 4 TO 6 FT.    SUN NIGHT  NW WINDS AROUND 15 KT WITH GUSTS UP TO 20 KT. SEAS 3 TO  5 FT.    MON  NW WINDS 10 TO 15 KT...BECOMING SW AROUND 5 KT IN THE  AFTERNOON...THEN BECOMING SE 10 TO 15 KT AFTER MIDNIGHT. SEAS 2  TO 4 FT. A CHANCE OF SNOW AFTER MIDNIGHT.    TUE  SE WINDS 15 TO 20 KT...BECOMING S 20 TO 25 KT IN THE  EVENING...THEN BECOMING W 15 TO 20 KT AFTER MIDNIGHT. SEAS 4 TO  7 FT. SNOW AND RAIN LIKELY IN THE MORNING...THEN RAIN LIKELY IN  THE AFTERNOON. A CHANCE OF RAIN THROUGH THE NIGHT. VSBY 1 TO 3 NM  IN THE MORNING. 

    Webmaster, NYNJSurf.com - Follow NYNJSurf on Instagram - click here ---> @NYNJSurf - Site Comments, questions or requests? Email me! [email protected]

    Offline CESAR

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    Re: Once upon a time, I was a surfer.
    « Reply #1 on: January 14, 2011, 10:08:22 AM »
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  • I keep replaying ideas on improving the quiver......but what's the point without any surf?  Just ordered some old skool flicks to keep the stoke alive...........along with excessive Wii action on the downtime lol.  Thank god for the Jets......until Monday that is.

    Online the Kook

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    Re: Once upon a time, I was a surfer.
    « Reply #2 on: January 14, 2011, 10:10:26 AM »
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  • I keep replaying ideas on improving the quiver......but what's the point without any surf?  Just ordered some old skool flicks to keep the stoke alive...........along with excessive Wii action on the downtime lol.  Thank god for the Jets......until Monday that is.

    Actually until Sunday evening.   ::)
    "The problem with socialism is that you eventually run out of other people's money" -Margaret Thatcher

    No, I am not a smart ass.......I am a skilled, trained professional in pointing out the obvious and I speak fluent sarcasm.


    Offline RayG

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    Re: Once upon a time, I was a surfer.
    « Reply #3 on: January 14, 2011, 10:29:40 AM »
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  • Any outlooks that I read, see or hear about mean nothing to me. Not that   I don't understand them because I've been doing my own research since I   was 16 or 17. To me, it's the 'not knowing' that intrigued me since I   could drive myself to the beach. I'd read all the forecasts, call the   surf shop hotlines and such, but I would STILL get in the car and go to   the beach. "What if they're wrong?", I'd think and go anyway. Most times   it turns out they were right. But, on a lot more occasions than you   would think, sometimes they were wrong. It would predict small 2ft and   not so good. I'd arrive for the DP and it would be 3-4 ft and have that   morning glass or offshores for a couple of hours before the wind got it   or the swell faded fast. Perhaps I would go to a particular spot that   was for some reason just not picking up whatever swell was out there.   I'd head to another that, through my years of research, may seem to pick   up a bit more, or have a different sandbar setup. There was usually a   minimum of 3 spots that I would check just to be sure.
    It's also something a bit more esoteric than just 'surfing'. Going to the beach was "family" time since before I was 5. From taking the little ferry to RM before the bridge was built, then later on going to the Drive-In for Sunday mass in our bathing suits then making a break for the beach as soon as it was over. Staying all day until we were crispy and just plain worn out. I had an older sister that was the she-devil to me, except when we were at the beach. I can't remember ever fighting with her at the beach. My mom loved the beach, especially any ocean beach because of the waves. She always said the sky was different at an ocean beach and I believe it. We used to spend 6 weeks in the Poconos during the summer, but Mom would be sure that we drove home once in awhile to be able to go to the beach at least for a day. She never lost that love for the ocean, and requested that her ashes be scattered over the ocean- not on the sand, or on the shoreline, but IN the ocean. After she passed in '97, we spent a year or so trying to arrange when the family could all be together in FL (Parents lived in New Port Richey at the time) and take her to the Atlantic. We wound up driving to Indiatlantic Beach to have our last farewell. We arrived in the afternoon and it was windy and blown out and not very nice at all. We had decided to do it at sunrise because she just could not get enough of the way the sun played with the lighting on the clouds and would always get up to watch it when they were staying anywhere near the ocean. Like she said- the sky is different at the ocean. The next morning we awoke to nearly a flat ocean. I was a bit disappointed because I had taken the BBoard and had hoped to take Mom for a final ride. She loved getting on the board on our trips to Myrtle Beach and seemed to have more fun that I did. We walked down to the shore, said our few words to each other and Mom and I took the package and paddled out just hoping that a small one would come in for at least a short ride. I sat outside and had a few words and a tear or two. As the sun peeked over a cloud on the horizon something seemed different- I felt the ocean rise a bit and drop. And as corny as it sounds, a butterfly went by. A few minutes later I saw some lines approaching the little sandbar I was just inside of. they broke but just barely and I didn't get into the right spot anyway. I figured I would wait a bit just in case. I didn't wait long another set approached and I was in exactly the right spot. A nearly flawless 3-4 foot face that I made sure I didn't miss. I got Mom her final ride and it was tube. As I paddled back out, I could hear my sister and Aunt on the beach crying and laughing at the same time. Dad was clapping and actually hooted. I got back outside and scattered the ashes in the midst of all these perfect little waves. I then took off on the next one and it was another perfect little tube. On the beach, we had a big hug and a cry. But I had to get back out there. This was a gift and I wasn't going to pass it up. They only lasted another 1/2 hour tops but were some of the best I've ever had at any size. The tears in my eyes weren't from the salt water either. So I take my trips to the beach no matter what the forecast says- I might have a gift from my Mom waiting for me. And if it's flat, so what? I know she's out there reminding me that "The Sky is different at The Ocean".
    Sent from Coleco Vision NEC Zilog Z80A CPU

    Offline SeaCliff

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    Re: Once upon a time, I was a surfer.
    « Reply #4 on: January 14, 2011, 10:38:49 AM »
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  • I keep replaying ideas on improving the quiver......but what's the point without any surf?  Just ordered some old skool flicks to keep the stoke alive...........along with excessive Wii action on the downtime lol.  Thank god for the Jets......until Monday that is.

    Actually until Sunday evening.   ::)

    I wonder if there's surf on Revis Island...
    Webmaster, NYNJSurf.com - Follow NYNJSurf on Instagram - click here ---> @NYNJSurf - Site Comments, questions or requests? Email me! [email protected]

    Offline obfuscations

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    Re: Once upon a time, I was a surfer.
    « Reply #5 on: January 14, 2011, 10:41:48 AM »
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  •  the last time i surfed was november something, i wore a 4/3 and no hood, and it was an awesome day.  since then i've probably spent more total time checking forecasts and one thread or another on this site than i actually spent surfing during 2010. 

    Offline CESAR

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    Re: Once upon a time, I was a surfer.
    « Reply #6 on: January 14, 2011, 11:00:26 AM »
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  • I keep replaying ideas on improving the quiver......but what's the point without any surf?  Just ordered some old skool flicks to keep the stoke alive...........along with excessive Wii action on the downtime lol.  Thank god for the Jets......until Monday that is.

    Actually until Sunday evening.   ::)

    I wonder if there's surf on Revis Island...

    Once upon a time.....in a galaxy far far away......
     
    http://i.imgur.com/bzVtm.jpg

    Offline epic_kev

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    Re: Once upon a time, I was a surfer.
    « Reply #7 on: January 14, 2011, 11:31:22 AM »
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  • Are you guys not going to surf the said 5ft. for tuesday??   Im hoping it holds up

    Offline obfuscations

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    Re: Once upon a time, I was a surfer.
    « Reply #8 on: January 14, 2011, 01:03:12 PM »
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  • Are you guys not going to surf the said 5ft. for tuesday??   Im hoping it holds up

    TUES: SE WINDS 15 TO 20 KT...BECOMING S 20 TO 25
     
    think i'll pass on that, but enjoy

    Offline Bacon

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    Once upon a time, I was a surfer.
    « Reply #9 on: January 14, 2011, 01:42:53 PM »
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  • Oh, come on, Obs...

    We might get lucky and get blessed with 50 knot offshores again after the hard onshore build.
    I need the sea because it teaches me.

    Offline damian

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    Re: Once upon a time, I was a surfer.
    « Reply #10 on: January 14, 2011, 01:59:44 PM »
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  • There's always something showing at the tail end of the 5 day forecast.  I'm sure it increases web traffic. 

    Offline Smiley's people

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    Re: Once upon a time, I was a surfer.
    « Reply #11 on: January 14, 2011, 03:11:15 PM »
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  •  I am suspicious that the advertisers on
    all of theforecasting sites require that they
    show a swell event 5 days out at all times.
    The sites can degrade the swell event
    to nil to match actual conditions the day
    Of the supposed swell, then wham the
    charts and graphs show head high waves
    In 5 days. I haven't surfed in so long I
    think I'm turning into a conspiracy nut.
    ‘closed mouth don’t catch any foot.’

    Offline SeaCliff

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    Re: Once upon a time, I was a surfer.
    « Reply #12 on: January 14, 2011, 07:05:45 PM »
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  • I am suspicious that the advertisers on
    all of theforecasting sites require that they
    show a swell event 5 days out at all times.
    The sites can degrade the swell event
    to nil to match actual conditions the day
    Of the supposed swell, then wham the
    charts and graphs show head high waves
    In 5 days. I haven't surfed in so long I
    think I'm turning into a conspiracy nut.

    I know this great spot near the airport.....it's always firing, you'll need a gun....right over there, on the other side of that grassy knoll....it'll be you, and maybe one or two other guys.....my buddy Zabruder is always there with his camera filming - look for him - don't let anyone catch you there, but if anyone does and you're questioned, make sure you tell them you were there alone...don't let on that we're all in it or they'll start a commission and investigate it and we'll have to pay them all off to come up with ridiculous conclusions to throw everyone off....

     ::)
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    Offline Kyle

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    Re: Once upon a time, I was a surfer.
    « Reply #13 on: January 14, 2011, 08:09:54 PM »
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  • Thanks for sharing, RayG.

    Offline SeaCliff

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    Re: Once upon a time, I was a surfer.
    « Reply #14 on: January 14, 2011, 08:19:57 PM »
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  • Any outlooks that I read, see or hear about mean nothing to me. Not that   I don't understand them because I've been doing my own research since I   was 16 or 17. To me, it's the 'not knowing' that intrigued me since I   could drive myself to the beach. I'd read all the forecasts, call the   surf shop hotlines and such, but I would STILL get in the car and go to   the beach. "What if they're wrong?", I'd think and go anyway. Most times   it turns out they were right. But, on a lot more occasions than you   would think, sometimes they were wrong. It would predict small 2ft and   not so good. I'd arrive for the DP and it would be 3-4 ft and have that   morning glass or offshores for a couple of hours before the wind got it   or the swell faded fast. Perhaps I would go to a particular spot that   was for some reason just not picking up whatever swell was out there.   I'd head to another that, through my years of research, may seem to pick   up a bit more, or have a different sandbar setup. There was usually a   minimum of 3 spots that I would check just to be sure.
    It's also something a bit more esoteric than just 'surfing'. Going to the beach was "family" time since before I was 5. From taking the little ferry to RM before the bridge was built, then later on going to the Drive-In for Sunday mass in our bathing suits then making a break for the beach as soon as it was over. Staying all day until we were crispy and just plain worn out. I had an older sister that was the she-devil to me, except when we were at the beach. I can't remember ever fighting with her at the beach. My mom loved the beach, especially any ocean beach because of the waves. She always said the sky was different at an ocean beach and I believe it. We used to spend 6 weeks in the Poconos during the summer, but Mom would be sure that we drove home once in awhile to be able to go to the beach at least for a day. She never lost that love for the ocean, and requested that her ashes be scattered over the ocean- not on the sand, or on the shoreline, but IN the ocean. After she passed in '97, we spent a year or so trying to arrange when the family could all be together in FL (Parents lived in New Port Richey at the time) and take her to the Atlantic. We wound up driving to Indiatlantic Beach to have our last farewell. We arrived in the afternoon and it was windy and blown out and not very nice at all. We had decided to do it at sunrise because she just could not get enough of the way the sun played with the lighting on the clouds and would always get up to watch it when they were staying anywhere near the ocean. Like she said- the sky is different at the ocean. The next morning we awoke to nearly a flat ocean. I was a bit disappointed because I had taken the BBoard and had hoped to take Mom for a final ride. She loved getting on the board on our trips to Myrtle Beach and seemed to have more fun that I did. We walked down to the shore, said our few words to each other and Mom and I took the package and paddled out just hoping that a small one would come in for at least a short ride. I sat outside and had a few words and a tear or two. As the sun peeked over a cloud on the horizon something seemed different- I felt the ocean rise a bit and drop. And as corny as it sounds, a butterfly went by. A few minutes later I saw some lines approaching the little sandbar I was just inside of. they broke but just barely and I didn't get into the right spot anyway. I figured I would wait a bit just in case. I didn't wait long another set approached and I was in exactly the right spot. A nearly flawless 3-4 foot face that I made sure I didn't miss. I got Mom her final ride and it was tube. As I paddled back out, I could hear my sister and Aunt on the beach crying and laughing at the same time. Dad was clapping and actually hooted. I got back outside and scattered the ashes in the midst of all these perfect little waves. I then took off on the next one and it was another perfect little tube. On the beach, we had a big hug and a cry. But I had to get back out there. This was a gift and I wasn't going to pass it up. They only lasted another 1/2 hour tops but were some of the best I've ever had at any size. The tears in my eyes weren't from the salt water either. So I take my trips to the beach no matter what the forecast says- I might have a gift from my Mom waiting for me. And if it's flat, so what? I know she's out there reminding me that "The Sky is different at The Ocean".


    Kyle's right - thanks for this, Ray....
    Webmaster, NYNJSurf.com - Follow NYNJSurf on Instagram - click here ---> @NYNJSurf - Site Comments, questions or requests? Email me! [email protected]