[Bunker Spreckels]

An outstanding autobiography by William Finnegan, a prolific journalist whose life makes me want to drop everything and explore new lands. I highly recommend this book to everyone here. It's an alluring tale involving surf, adventure and progressive ideologies of a very conservative time - many of which I can't relate to being so young and growing up in a vastly different time.

The book talks about pioneering waves, the desperate search for the greater good as well as some spots out in Montauk and Long Beach that occasionally get good.

Pick it up if you have the chance.


https://www.amazon.com/s/?ref=nb_sb_ss_c_1_6?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=barbarian+days+a+surfing+life+by+william+finnegan&sprefix=barbar%2Caps%2C134&crid=2TQTXP4WW6XX0&rh=i%3Aaps%2Ck%3Abarbarian+days+a+surfing+life+by+william+finnegan

[navara]

It's been on my shelf for 2 years now. Guess i should crack it open.

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[NNW lite]

That was a great book. I recently read and really enjoyed welcome to paradise, now go to hell by Chas Smith and Swell by Liz Clark. Hell if we can't surf might as well read about surfing.

[Mayday]

Also in the process of reading it. Really good so far.


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[SeaCliff]

It's been on my shelf for 2 years now. Guess i should crack it open.

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Mine, too! Good idea for the last flat spell before Labor Day. 

[fulltilt720]

Just finished re-reading it last week. It's the best surf book, by far, in my opinion. 

[Patches O'houlihan]

Was gifted about five copies.

Eventually just listened to it on tape.

Great book, great descriptor of surfing and surf travel. Gave me some serious nostalgia.

[UNCLE!!]

it was a badass book. Makes me feel unworthy!!

[Crackie Onassis]

My favorite part of the book was learning that his buddy wrote this:


https://www.newyorker.com/magazine/1990/02/12/ornery

[fulltilt720]

Just finished re-reading it last week. It's the best surf book, by far, in my opinion.

#2 -- in search of captain zero?

[swellrider]

Def worth the read! Can't believe how they searched for waves in the 60's/pre-internet and his writing made me feel like I was riding every wave right along with him.

[fulltilt720]

Just finished re-reading it last week. It's the best surf book, by far, in my opinion.

#2 -- in search of captain zero?

actually, duane's Caught Inside

[adamlesper]

Great read. Devoured it when it was released. I've been re-reading specific chapters on planes en route to surf trips. The chapters on Maui and Maderia are amazing.