Author Topic: any books?  (Read 2653 times)

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Offline fulltilt720

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any books?
« on: July 07, 2015, 03:23:51 PM »
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  • Looking for a new surf book, anyone got anything they'd recommend? (I looked for a pre-existing thread but couldn't find a particularly good one.)


    Have already tackled:
    • Surfer's Code, Shaun Tomson
    • Caught Inside, Dan Duane
    • The Fear Project, Jaimal Yogis
    • The Rise of Superman, Steven Kotler
    • Ghost Wave (Cortez Bank), Chris Dixon
    • Return by Water: Surf Stories and Adventures, Kimball Taylor
    • The Wave: In Pursuit of the Rogues, Freaks, and Giants of the Ocean, Susan Casey
    • South of Normal, Norm Schriever
    • Surf Survival: The Surfer's Health Handbook, Andrew Nathanson
    • Welcome to Paradise, Now Go to Hell, Chas Smith
    • Saltwater Buddha: A Surfer's Quest to Find Zen on the Sea, Jaimal Yogis
    • Kook, Peter Heller
    • Crazy for the Storm, Normal Ollestad
    • All for a Few Perfect Waves: The Audacious Life and Legend of Rebel Surfer Miki Dora, David Rensen
    • In Search of Captain Zero: A Surfer's Road Trip Beyond the End of the Road, Allan Weisbecker
    • Pipe Dreams, Kelly Slater
    • West of Jesus: Surfing, Science and the Origins of Belief, Steven Kotler

    Offline seb

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    Re: any books?
    « Reply #1 on: July 07, 2015, 03:36:30 PM »
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  • Thai Stick was a fun read.
    http://thaistickbook.com/
    it's 6AM, have you seen a donkey?

    Offline Northstreet

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    Re: any books?
    « Reply #2 on: July 07, 2015, 03:53:33 PM »
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  • Tapping the Source

    Offline adamlesper

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    Re: any books?
    « Reply #3 on: July 07, 2015, 04:51:20 PM »
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  • kathrynbonella.com/books/[/size]snowing-in-bali[/color][/size]/[/color]
    [/size][/color]

    Offline damian

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    Re: any books?
    « Reply #4 on: July 07, 2015, 10:16:50 PM »
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  • I thought Kook was pretty terrible but Peter Heller's The Dog Stars, was one of my favorites from a few years ago.


    Also tapping into Kant-ian notions of the sublime: Anthony Dorerr's short stories: The Shell Collector (especially the title story).


    I'll also second Crazy for the Storm. 


    And William Finnegan's book might be out....

    Offline ArchySwashbuckle

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    Re: any books?
    « Reply #5 on: July 08, 2015, 08:53:59 AM »
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  • Mike Hynson's book is incredibly entertaining....
    Impossible to find in print, but I bought it on Nook, or kindle one of those for the ipad for 99c


    Pretty wild the life that guy lead, Robert August he was not!
    "Waves are the ultimate illusion. They come out of nowhere, instantaneously materialize and just as quickly they break and vanish. Chasing after such fleeting mirages is a complete waste of time. That is what I chose to do with my life." Dora

    Offline Dorado

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    Re: any books?
    « Reply #6 on: July 08, 2015, 08:55:54 AM »
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  • Surf is where you find it : Gerry Lopez


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    Offline Dorado

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    Re: any books?
    « Reply #7 on: July 08, 2015, 08:57:38 AM »
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  • This


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    Offline Dorado

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    any books?
    « Reply #8 on: July 08, 2015, 08:59:55 AM »
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  • This


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    Offline Dorado

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    Re: any books?
    « Reply #9 on: July 08, 2015, 09:00:49 AM »
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  • This


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    Offline Crackie Onassis

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    Re: any books?
    « Reply #10 on: July 08, 2015, 09:51:24 AM »
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  • Anything by Kem Nunn.


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    Offline RayG

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    Re: any books?
    « Reply #11 on: July 08, 2015, 12:11:28 PM »
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  • IF you can find a copy- 'Great Surfing' by John Severson. A collection of stories by and about the great surfers of the day, along with the iconic photos from the era (circa 1967). A bit of history, fun and terror. Particularly the story of the death of Dickie Cross at Wiamea in 1943... 14 years before Wiamea was "conquered".

    I have my copy... it NEVER leaves the house... EVER.

    (fixed the font size, I think...)
    « Last Edit: July 08, 2015, 01:28:18 PM by RayG »
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    Offline Kyle

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    Re: any books?
    « Reply #12 on: July 08, 2015, 12:34:32 PM »
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  • Big drop was OK. I 3rd crazy for the storm. Caught inside was a good stoke provider when I was beginning (late bloomer) and Lopez' book is the best surf book I've bought in the last 2 years.

    Going to check out the Hynson book and Kemm Nunn

    Offline snaggletooth

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    Re: any books?
    « Reply #13 on: July 09, 2015, 01:25:00 PM »
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  • Did you read Susan Casey's Devil's Teeth? i know it's not surfing exactly, but since you read her book The Wave...
    i also loved  Bluewater gold rush. again, not surfing, but both books were really interesting ocean related reads.

    Offline fulltilt720

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    Re: any books?
    « Reply #14 on: July 09, 2015, 02:05:07 PM »
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  • Did you read Susan Casey's Devil's Teeth? i know it's not surfing exactly, but since you read her book The Wave...
    i also loved  Bluewater gold rush. again, not surfing, but both books were really interesting ocean related reads.


    I did read Susan Casey's Devil's Teeth, but like you said, it's not really surfing so i didn't include it. I struggled with Devil's Teeth and still haven't finished it yet. Seemed to really drag for a bit...