Author Topic: Another Good Question, surf fear.  (Read 6965 times)

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Offline Sandshark

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Re: Another Good Question, surf fear.
« Reply #15 on: March 29, 2007, 02:37:36 PM »
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  • 6-8 ft day, 2 summers ago, I was fooling around in the lineup lying on my back on my board and a outside set wave of about 10 ft in size came thru, I didn't have time to turn around and paddle and as I was getting sucked over I knew my board, an oversized 6'8" thruster  was likely going to hit me, thankfully it missed me by about an inch, but that feeling was like when I've lost control in a car accident wiating for the impact. Scary

    why were you chillin' on your back on such a big day?

    Dave_in_NJ

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    Re: Another Good Question, surf fear.
    « Reply #16 on: March 29, 2007, 02:49:50 PM »
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  • it was closer to 6 ft than 8 ft and it was very clean, hardly any wind, and very long period waves

    Offline Northstreet

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    Re: Another Good Question, surf fear.
    « Reply #17 on: March 29, 2007, 02:53:27 PM »
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  • at LB on the 3/11 swell, I was just getting over a bad chest cold, and I was out-of-shape as well.  When a big BIG! set came, I just didn't have enough juice left to scratch far enought outside, and I just barely duck-dove.  I didn't get far enough under and got sucked backwards over the falls and then caught the next 4 waves in the impact zone.  I swallowed some water and called it a day......

    Offline Jimbobway

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    Re: Another Good Question, surf fear.
    « Reply #18 on: March 29, 2007, 03:05:39 PM »
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  • Getting caught inside on a bigger sized day at Sunset, maybe 6-8 foot Hawaiian. A set came through and I was just caught. Maybe 4 wave set rolled through, and although I didn't really get held under, or pinned, I had to ditch, and after diving and getting maybe 6 feet under the wash and having the whole world go dark I realized just what I may have been in for. The wash would roll over me, and I would start to swim for the surface, but the wave would not let me go and it would not only be pulling me down, but pulling me back towards shore. There is nothing more humbling then seeing the surface two feet above you, but not being able to reach it.

    Psycho

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    Re: Another Good Question, surf fear.
    « Reply #19 on: March 29, 2007, 03:06:30 PM »
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  • at LB on the 3/11 swell, I was just getting over a bad chest cold, and I was out-of-shape as well.  When a big BIG! set came, I just didn't have enough juice left to scratch far enought outside, and I just barely duck-dove.  I didn't get far enough under and got sucked backwards over the falls and then caught the next 4 waves in the impact zone.  I swallowed some water and called it a day......

    Was that from the Photograph? If so I feel ya that was a sick Keg comin at ya!

    Offline WalkingIsStillHonest

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    Re: Another Good Question, surf fear.
    « Reply #20 on: March 29, 2007, 03:15:44 PM »
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  • DOH ++ PR this winter.  Talk about power compared to ny.  Got lucky on the paddle out, and then once a set came through i found myself in full on bouy mode on the outsdie.

    how'd ya get in?

    I waited till a big set came through, paddled inside a bit.  Waited for a short time then took of on a smaller wave, DOH,  and speed chased it down the line.  Not exactly a beating story, but the fear was certainly there.

    Offline Looseness

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    Re: Another Good Question, surf fear.
    « Reply #21 on: March 29, 2007, 03:18:35 PM »
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  • See Guerilla Guru's Blizzard 06 footage, nuff said.
    A few weeks earlier, I got beat down by successive 7ft bombs in the box.

    If I learned anything from those experiences, I learned that I can take it.

    While I am certain that you have the proper and necessary respect for the Ocean, you learned what you can take and that's a good thing. This helps you deal with heavy situations without panic. I think this is a lesson that some people don't put the proper focus on after surviving a beating. Some seem to only focus on the defeat, fear, danger, loss of control.... rather than the fact that they came out of it intact and survived a boundary pushing situation.    
    It's no better to be safe than sorry....

    Offline Northstreet

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    Re: Another Good Question, surf fear.
    « Reply #22 on: March 29, 2007, 03:21:43 PM »
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  • at LB on the 3/11 swell, I was just getting over a bad chest cold, and I was out-of-shape as well.  When a big BIG! set came, I just didn't have enough juice left to scratch far enought outside, and I just barely duck-dove.  I didn't get far enough under and got sucked backwards over the falls and then caught the next 4 waves in the impact zone.  I swallowed some water and called it a day......

    Was that from the Photograph? If so I feel ya that was a sick Keg comin at ya!

    I really think that was me in the photo about to get chomped.....not good enought resolution to tell, but it was the right place/time and it happened like that in my memory.......nonetheless, if I saw it happening to someone else, I'd get a good laught

    Psycho

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    Re: Another Good Question, surf fear.
    « Reply #23 on: March 29, 2007, 03:24:08 PM »
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  • I actually found that if I think Im gonna get pounded, when i used to say in my head, "Aw shiz!" I replaced it with yelling at the top of my lungs Wooo Hooo or Yeah!!!! really mean it & half the time it aint so bad. I look at how awsome the wave is & just cheer it on rather then think about what its gonna do to me. On the other hand, I do know my limits. i remember being so carefree untill I almost drowned, then It was a serious slap in the face. mother nature said, "you think you got me covered?" & knocked my dick in the dirt. I have so much respect for the fact that im so small & worthless when it comes to the power of the universe.

    Thats why its ahrd to take everything so seriously, I just wanna be happy.

    Offline Looseness

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    Re: Another Good Question, surf fear.
    « Reply #24 on: March 29, 2007, 03:28:35 PM »
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  • What about that day when you tried to paddle out on the wrong side of the jetty. Nearly gave ME a heart attack watching as you disappeared at the end of the jetty as a wave was about to explode on your head. I think the current dragged you out of the impact zone a fraction before you would have been annihilated. Who was it that said it was okay to go from that side?

    I will take the dubious credit for that BAD piece of advice.....a little earlier it had been a real cakewalk, jump in the rip, dry hair paddle out, maybe one or two quick duckdives....well I didn't think about the board SS was carrying that was impossible for her to duckdive if the situation arose, the fact that the tide was changing making it suck out and break more right at the end, and any number of other good reasons I shouldn't have suggested that. I felt pretty bad about that, would feel even worse if she hadn't come through it.    
    It's no better to be safe than sorry....

    Offline the Kook

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    Re: Another Good Question, surf fear.
    « Reply #25 on: March 29, 2007, 03:30:33 PM »
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  • About 6-7 years ago at an extremely western spot, hurricane swell (can't recall which one) on my 9'4" longboard.  It took me forever to make it out and when I got there I realized that I had no business being there.  Waited for a long time until a "small" enough wave came in.  I took off and made it about 7/8 of the way down the face when it pitched over me and knocked me in front of the wave.  Then next thing I remember is being ragdolled like never before or since and then dragged toward the beach.  No idea which way was up until I felt my leg being pulled by my leash which was stretched to within an inch of its life.  Kept stoking trying to get to the surface and was just being dragged.  Finally popped my head up, in the soup, long enough to gulp a breath and see that the rest of the set was about to land on me.  Returned to the dragging thing and it didn't end until I was pushed up on the beach.  I just lay there trying to catch my breath.  A friend came running over cause he thought I was in serious trouble.  He had watched the whole thing and was looking for me after I went down and said he was amazed that I got a breath when I popped up, because he said my head just popped up long enough to be seen and then got dragged right back down.  The day I learned that a man has got to know his limitations.
    "The problem with socialism is that you eventually run out of other people's money" -Margaret Thatcher

    No, I am not a smart ass.......I am a skilled, trained professional in pointing out the obvious and I speak fluent sarcasm.


    Psycho

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    Re: Another Good Question, surf fear.
    « Reply #26 on: March 29, 2007, 04:14:44 PM »
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  • I remember you telling that story one night, def spooky when crap like that happens. Thats how I got in trouble, took off on a well over head Bomb on a particulary heavy day, it was one of those days that just rag dolled ya even if you got a small wave. It was ice cold & the rip was super bad, one of the worst ones I was ever in. I dropped in & had a blast, I was flyin down the line, sprayed someone in the face, Lotsa cutbacks & it seemed the wave just wanted to keep going. i started down the face with a big cut throwin spray up over the lip when I got a HUGE cramp in my leg. I instantly pulled out the back only to see the biggest rogue set coming my way. I was super inside in pain & had about a second to grab my knee, get a breath & try to go deep.

    It got black under there & the power just rolled me under the water. I hit my head on the bottome & just stayed in a ball. It got light under there & I wanted to go up but before I could figure out what way up was it got dark again & the rolling started again. I didnt get enough air the 1rst time & i knew I wasnt holding my breathe well & my leg was still cramped up. I tried to relax when I saw the light again & really swam up. just when my hands came out I thought I'll get a breathe now but it got dark again & rolled underneathe again. finally I was up higher this time & could see the white bubbles on the surface. I popped my head out to quickly get a breathe  but when my face came out I saw nothing but the lip & it hit me daed square in the face. I inhaled a whole shiz load of water into my lungs & started gagging as I rolled upside down & hit my face on the bottom. the was a super painfull stabbing feeling in my neck too & it flet like my tongue was gonna pop. I reached up & the leash had wrapped around my neck & the board was tomb stoned & getti9ng pounded by waves. I got washed again coughing & panic choking on the water in my lungs.

    Then everything went white, my body went totally numb & relaxed. I felt like I was floating on the moon & thought to myself oh brown trout, im gonna die right here. Oh brown trout wait! what about Jess! then I blacked out. then I remember being on the beach when my eyes opened & all I could see was Mario Longboardies eyes lookin at me saying, "You OK, I saw ya get worked & your board stickin up but I couldnt get to you fast enough. Your OK now right?" Then he started walking away. I dont know if a spoke to him but I remember thinkin in my head , NO Dont Go, Im not OK. Help, my lung hurts I I styill acnt feel my legs but he just carried his board down the beach untill he was blurry.

    To this day, if its big & heavy with massive rips at high tide, it takes alot for me to paddle out. its not hat worth it to me. I love surfing but Love my life & the bride more, I know my limits. I seriously somehow made it that day, i dont ever wanna test it again.

    « Last Edit: March 29, 2007, 04:18:21 PM by Psycho »

    Offline ward_hill

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    Re: Another Good Question, surf fear.
    « Reply #27 on: March 29, 2007, 04:30:55 PM »
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  • About 6-7 years ago at an extremely western spot, hurricane swell (can't recall which one) on my 9'4" longboard.  It took me forever to make it out and when I got there I realized that I had no business being there.  Waited for a long time until a "small" enough wave came in.  I took off and made it about 7/8 of the way down the face when it pitched over me and knocked me in front of the wave.  Then next thing I remember is being ragdolled like never before or since and then dragged toward the beach.  No idea which way was up until I felt my leg being pulled by my leash which was stretched to within an inch of its life.  Kept stoking trying to get to the surface and was just being dragged.  Finally popped my head up, in the soup, long enough to gulp a breath and see that the rest of the set was about to land on me.  Returned to the dragging thing and it didn't end until I was pushed up on the beach.  I just lay there trying to catch my breath.  A friend came running over cause he thought I was in serious trouble.  He had watched the whole thing and was looking for me after I went down and said he was amazed that I got a breath when I popped up, because he said my head just popped up long enough to be seen and then got dragged right back down.  The day I learned that a man has got to know his limitations.

    september 99?  around the 12th?  hurricane dennis? ...

    I drove out to a high-numbered street in b**** h*****.  Coming over the V-Z, there was a large wave breaking right off Caesars Bay!

    There were solid 10 footers coming in, with light offshores.  I got rejected once, then made it out on my booger.  Once there, I regretted it. Looking down, it felt like being on the roof of a house!  There was no one else out, at all!  I just wanted to get back in.  I aborted several attempted takeoffs, and then realized that I'd gotten myself a bit too far inside when a huge set appeared outside.  I kicked and paddled like hell to get back out, making it just to the bottom of a monster that came down on my head.  After a scary-long holddown, I got to the surface and grabbed my board just in time to get launched on a huge foamball.  After another ridiculous holddown, I resurfaced within about 20 yards of the beach.  I made it out of the shorepound and collapsed on the beach, ready to barf.  During the second one, I was actually thinking that I might not make it.  While recovering on the beach, I watched some kids on shortboards getting annihilated a couple blocks east. 

    I've learned to accept my limits!!


    Offline skSURF

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    Re: Another Good Question, surf fear.
    « Reply #28 on: March 29, 2007, 04:39:16 PM »
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  • I remember you telling that story one night, def spooky when crap like that happens. Thats how I got in trouble, took off on a well over head Bomb on a particulary heavy day, it was one of those days that just rag dolled ya even if you got a small wave. It was ice cold & the rip was super bad, one of the worst ones I was ever in. I dropped in & had a blast, I was flyin down the line, sprayed someone in the face, Lotsa cutbacks & it seemed the wave just wanted to keep going. i started down the face with a big cut throwin spray up over the lip when I got a HUGE cramp in my leg. I instantly pulled out the back only to see the biggest rogue set coming my way. I was super inside in pain & had about a second to grab my knee, get a breath & try to go deep.

    It got black under there & the power just rolled me under the water. I hit my head on the bottome & just stayed in a ball. It got light under there & I wanted to go up but before I could figure out what way up was it got dark again & the rolling started again. I didnt get enough air the 1rst time & i knew I wasnt holding my breathe well & my leg was still cramped up. I tried to relax when I saw the light again & really swam up. just when my hands came out I thought I'll get a breathe now but it got dark again & rolled underneathe again. finally I was up higher this time & could see the white bubbles on the surface. I popped my head out to quickly get a breathe  but when my face came out I saw nothing but the lip & it hit me daed square in the face. I inhaled a whole shiz load of water into my lungs & started gagging as I rolled upside down & hit my face on the bottom. the was a super painfull stabbing feeling in my neck too & it flet like my tongue was gonna pop. I reached up & the leash had wrapped around my neck & the board was tomb stoned & getti9ng pounded by waves. I got washed again coughing & panic choking on the water in my lungs.

    Then everything went white, my body went totally numb & relaxed. I felt like I was floating on the moon & thought to myself oh brown trout, im gonna die right here. Oh brown trout wait! what about Jess! then I blacked out. then I remember being on the beach when my eyes opened & all I could see was Mario Longboardies eyes lookin at me saying, "You OK, I saw ya get worked & your board stickin up but I couldnt get to you fast enough. Your OK now right?" Then he started walking away. I dont know if a spoke to him but I remember thinkin in my head , NO Dont Go, Im not OK. Help, my lung hurts I I styill acnt feel my legs but he just carried his board down the beach untill he was blurry.

    To this day, if its big & heavy with massive rips at high tide, it takes alot for me to paddle out. its not hat worth it to me. I love surfing but Love my life & the bride more, I know my limits. I seriously somehow made it that day, i dont ever wanna test it again.


    That has to be the best post I have ever read from you.
    Trust in the board.

    Offline frroK

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    Re: Another Good Question, surf fear.
    « Reply #29 on: March 29, 2007, 04:46:28 PM »
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  • i cant count how many times I have scared shitless...the blizzard was one of those times although i didnt eat it bad. I ahve actually take some hellish beatdowns in hurricane surf, so bad that i didnt want to surf ever again.