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sman
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« on: May 11, 2008, 02:36:28 PM » |
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I'm curious to how long its taken others to make the transition....been riding a log for several years and also have a 6'8 fun fish (its got so much volume that its kinda like a log). I just got a 6'6 thruster and I gotta say im kinda dumfounded. I knew there would be a learning curve but i'm useless on the thing. I'd have thought that 5 years of surfing around 100 days a year on log would have eased the transition but that couldn't be further from the truth.
Any thoughts (other then abuse) greatly appreciated
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ez_ed
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« Reply #1 on: May 11, 2008, 02:51:09 PM » |
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Personally, I only ride my shortboards when it's about head high and good conditions.
I ride a 7'2" stinger from overhead to near 2 OH and a fish/log/glider in smaller surf. If it's like waist high and not pushing enough, it'll be a challenge for you. The tough thing is....you wanna ride what you're comfortable with when the waves get good but you kind of have to force yourself to try the 6'6". Why not bring 2 boards to the beach and make a point to catch at least 10 waves on the short before switching over.
What are the dimensions of your 6'6"? And how big are you? That might make a difference.
Also, thrusters are very accurate boards but sometimes they require more "work" to generate speed.
Does your board have slots for a quad? Have you ridden it as a twin? All possibilities which might help
make it more user-friendly for you.
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sman
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« Reply #2 on: May 11, 2008, 02:59:05 PM » |
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Thats exactly it, I got the shorter board for bigger days,but on bigger days a) its tough to learn something new & b) I like being comfortable on the board im on. I'm 5 10 180 - the board is a thruster, never ridden as a twin and no extra slots to have a quad set up. Its 6'4 11.50 tip, 18.88 mid, 14 tail and 2.50 thick.
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The Lone Surfer
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« Reply #3 on: May 11, 2008, 05:17:17 PM » |
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there is no way around the immense amount of practice time you will have to put in. Riding a shortboard is almost a completely different thing than riding a log. Unless you're super young and naturally gifted, it will take years to get shortboarding dialed. and if you're temped to ride the log 75% of the time before you learn to shortboard then you many never learn. I "rode" a potatochip shortboard for a couple years, got frustrated, switched to a big funshape. when i went back to a short board a few years later It took me years to really get it. And I'm not even talking about ripping, just getting the speed generation thing.
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jAmmYcAsT
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« Reply #4 on: May 11, 2008, 05:31:35 PM » |
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switching from a mini-mal to a shortboard was a tremendous amount of work for me. it honestly took me years to feel competent. i think i managed to just keep at it b/c i wanted it so desperately. also, i was a pretty incompetent surfer when i switched, so that might have been part of the issue anyway. 1 thing i notice about the dims on your 6'4" is that it is fairly narrow. i bet it feels very very squirrely to you (esp. on the popup). also, if it is a shortboard that is intended for larger surf then all that rocker makes it feel even smaller than it is (esp. compared to the fish) ez ed's suggestion is good. anyway, trying to get 10 waves on the shortboard might really be your whole session!  The tough thing is....you wanna ride what you're comfortable with when the waves get good but you kind of have to force yourself to try the 6'6". Why not bring 2 boards to the beach and make a point to catch at least 10 waves on the short before switching over.
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NLITB
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seb70
FOF
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Posts: 859
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« Reply #5 on: May 11, 2008, 05:43:24 PM » |
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agreed, too narrow in the nose and overal width for now...something in the 14 nose and 20 overall width would be a good startpoint for your size...it will still require you to work it to get going though...
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it's 6am, have you seen a donkey?
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Smith St. Surfer
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« Reply #6 on: May 11, 2008, 06:24:58 PM » |
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Have you looked into buying a 'fun board' so you have an in between step?
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Barack Would Go
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sman
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« Reply #7 on: May 11, 2008, 07:34:27 PM » |
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i've got a 6'8 and the funboards I've tried I've been able to ride no problem. Its definitely that squirily thing as i'm popping that totally throws me off. I guess I just have to take my licks
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jAmmYcAsT
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« Reply #8 on: May 11, 2008, 07:52:31 PM » |
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that or sell the thruster you have and get one a little wider, say 19.25-19.5. a 1/4 inch made a big difference for me.
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NLITB
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The Lone Surfer
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« Reply #9 on: May 11, 2008, 08:29:44 PM » |
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1 thing i notice about the dims on your 6'4" is that it is fairly narrow. i bet it feels very very squirrely to you (esp. on the popup). also, if it is a shortboard that is intended for larger surf then all that rocker makes it feel even smaller than it is (esp. compared to the fish)
that is a very good point. |
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jAmmYcAsT
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« Reply #10 on: May 11, 2008, 08:43:03 PM » |
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i've got a 6'8 and the funboards I've tried I've been able to ride no problem. Its definitely that squirily thing as i'm popping that totally throws me off. I guess I just have to take my licks
this may sound dumb, but i found/find several things helpful with getting over this. 1-i pretended i was on a board that i knew, just tried to remove the psych-out factor and focus on what i already knew how to do 2-stare down the line as i pop-up, this keeps the body in line and minimizes side to side movement. if you can, hands flat on the deck for the pop-up, don't grab the rails. 3-no slow longboard style pop-up either, be quick about it, efficient in movement! good luck sman! if you put in the practice it will happen! |
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NLITB
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EastEndWahine
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« Reply #11 on: May 11, 2008, 10:15:43 PM » |
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Yeah I definitely think getting a wider board will help out quite a bit.
I'm trying to do the same thing you are! Both my shorter boards are like 19.5 - 20 inches wide. The biggest problems I have are the same as yours....getting used to a late takeoff, paddling a lot harder. My wave count per session goes down quite a bit and it does get frustrating. Once I'm up riding though it's tons of fun! I also get tempted to ride my usual funboard when it gets good. I'm really going to try to break that habit now though, once I get into less rubber.
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sman
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« Reply #12 on: May 12, 2008, 05:17:06 AM » |
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Since the board was given to me by a friend that just moved to the mid west (poor bastard) I guess it can't hurt to buy a new one. I like those mental tips...my head game always gets in the way of my physical one. Is there any benefit to going out on small days and just grovelling on whatever shortboard I decide to get? Its not so much the technique that Im having a hard time with (at least I think), its getting use to have that much under me when things are moving fast. I ask because Im thinking it would be futile to even get this going in anything less then chest high waves at my size
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jAmmYcAsT
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« Reply #13 on: May 12, 2008, 08:11:43 AM » |
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groveling is key! if you can get waves and generate speed in small, crap surf, then you are good to go on bigger days. and you can just go for waves over and over and over and the sense of consequence is much lower than if the waves are big!
something like dorado's lost SDII could be good (see sale room, it might be too short for you tho)...SDIIs are amazing in tiny waves and also work when it gets bigger. something with low entry rocker, maybe a little fuller in the nose, pretty flat through the middle, and a little kick in the tail.
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NLITB
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jAmmYcAsT
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« Reply #14 on: May 12, 2008, 08:18:15 AM » |
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NLITB
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