[onefinookas]

I have not ridden a log since Jan 1 and prior to that it had been since Thanksgiving.  Saturday's second session presented itself as a perfect Log wave, it made the crowd bearable, you could set up the wave earlier, and with the offshores the noserides lasted all day.  Little did I know there was a photog on the beach capturing my brief 40 minute LB LB session.  Walked into work with a dick tan and an ear to ear permagrin.  It was also nice to take the hood off for a brief moment, I forgot what the ocean and surfing sounded like.
All pics courtesy of this guy, http://www.flickr.com/photos/mason13a/    thanks dude.

[Looseness]

Wow, nice waves, nice shots, classic style.

[onefinookas]

I got that board from a buddy of mine in 11th grade, he got it from his girlfriends dad after mentioning he wanted to take up surfing.  He complained the board didnt work and he was over it but that his girls dad didnt want to take the board back either.  Torn between trashing a board that clearly didnt work or hawking it off on one if his friends it founds its way to under the porch of our house one drunken night.  When my brother and I finally found out he had stashed the board under the house we pulled it out to see why it was such a beast of a board, we were already solely riding old longboards at this point.  Lo and behold, the girls dad had bondo'd a ping pong paddle into the fin box to work as a fin, of course it was a POS with that fin/paddle.  Classic, it has been one of my favorite longboards for years, bruised, battered, and leaking but still a great board.

[snaggletooth]

and you were going to take the fish....! aren't you glad i made you take the log? we both had better sessions.
 
that board is amazing. it's so beat up, but better because of it.

[Looseness]

I got that board from a buddy of mine in 11th grade, he got it from his girlfriends dad after mentioning he wanted to take up surfing.  He complained the board didnt work and he was over it but that his girls dad didnt want to take the board back either.  Torn between trashing a board that clearly didnt work or hawking it off on one if his friends it founds its way to under the porch of our house one drunken night.  When my brother and I finally found out he had stashed the board under the house we pulled it out to see why it was such a beast of a board, we were already solely riding old longboards at this point.  Lo and behold, the girls dad had bondo'd a ping pong paddle into the fin box to work as a fin, of course it was a POS with that fin/paddle.  Classic, it has been one of my favorite longboards for years, bruised, battered, and leaking but still a great board.

classic. i was wondering what board that was.

[NJ Longboarder]

looks like a longboarder sitting outside taking the set waves.  i kid, i kid.

[pefa]

styleeey shots bruddah foo fighter

[surfplusart]

gorgeous, absolutely gorgeous!

[SeaCliff]

Nice.

[pefa]

if not foo fighters, maybe clapton circa '77
 i wish i could post pics of those two to see da resemblance, but too untechy
 

[ankleslapper]

wow, it didn't look anything like that where we were on Sat. (gorgeous day, nice shots!)
we enjoyed stoke of a different sort.  UNCLE's living up to his name -- we were off welcoming a new niece.  By Sunday there was nothing left so we got our garden ready to go.  a surf would have been nice, but still..stoke all around...!

[three_fins_out]

I got that board from a buddy of mine in 11th grade, he got it from his girlfriends dad after mentioning he wanted to take up surfing. Classic, it has been one of my favorite longboards for years, bruised, battered, and leaking but still a great board.

nice shots and sweet board. still have the board that started it all, the 7'0 Suffolk single fin egg that me and my cuz split for $85 at the hawaiin shop in northport circa mid 80s. i have lost lots of good boards since that time but hopefully the suffolk will be on the rack in my retirement home. feel lucky, how many people still have their early boards?

[ez_ed]

I got that board from a buddy of mine in 11th grade, he got it from his girlfriends dad after mentioning he wanted to take up surfing. Classic, it has been one of my favorite longboards for years, bruised, battered, and leaking but still a great board.

nice shots and sweet board. still have the board that started it all, the 7'0 Suffolk single fin egg that me and my cuz split for $85 at the hawaiin shop in northport circa mid 80s. i have lost lots of good boards since that time but hopefully the suffolk will be on the rack in my retirement home. feel lucky, how many people still have their early boards?

My first board was an 8' Chuck Andrus longboard gun(funny. I now teach with his daughter). It was a one board quiver for 2 years and I used to surf Kewalos/Big Rights on it every day and get pumped up for runs up the Alii's on "big" days(they seemed big back then at least). Gave it to a kid from Inwood and the kid turned out to never even ride it--he was too in love with his bong to muster the requisite energy. I tend to give away old boards to kids in an attempt to hopefully pass on something positive.


PS-1fin, I've been on the lonboard/SUP/gun tip for the past 2 months. I went opposite of you and rode every shortboard in my quiver last week and re-connected with my inner ripper. AWESOME style in those shots. 1fin is a standout in ANY lineup. Props.
Would love to share a log session one day at Chuns/Puaena Cove and try to pick up some style pointers.