Author Topic: Firsts  (Read 924 times)

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Online Jack Crank

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Re: Firsts
« Reply #15 on: June 04, 2010, 03:56:55 PM »
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  • This is totally the kind of post we should all be striving for.  Now that's some übercontagious stoke!  Congrats man.
    After 43 years of dreaming of, reading, watching, studying and researching anything I could find on the subject of surfing, I stood up 3 times at Rock yesterday! I can't possibly describe how I'm feeling other than I am STILL glowing over my first real milestone! What can I possibly say that has already been said since probably the first ancient Polynesian stood up? It's crazy! For 3 years, I became proactive in my quest to surf. Traveling locally, I've gone out on "recon missions" to gather as much surf information on everywhere from Rock to Montauk, Jersey from Sandy Hook to Bradley Beach(eventually, I'll make my way to Cape May) and all over Rhode Island and Block Island. Prior to that, I have been to Virginia Beach, Florida(Hobe Sound) and California(Los Angeles:Manhattan Beach and Hermosa Beach). I've rented from Boarders for 2 seasons and asked a ton of stupid questions. Steve and Chris cheered me on and Chris said something I will take to the grave:"You are now one of us. You are now a surfer." I considered that for a moment. I never really belonged anywhere and now I do. What Chris,Steve and Frank  said to me (without saying it) was I been initiated into the surf community and I feel great! After my session and I was changing into dry clothes, Chris told me that he was going to have a drink in my honor! Stoke? Oh, yeah! I wanted to be around for the celebration but I had a long drive home. I apologize for rambling on and on. This is the only place for me to vent. Where I live, I am the surf community. Thank you Rock community for helping me arrive at the first step of the greatest moment of my life and helping me to achieve the first step of fulfilling my life long mission: to walk on water.

    Online Jack Crank

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    Re: Firsts
    « Reply #16 on: June 04, 2010, 03:57:46 PM »
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  • Hahahahaha.... Oh man, now that'll be a first.

    Non Lemming stylee...

    when i first clicked on this thread and scrolled quickly, i just saw the rodent and thought someone had a richard gere first

    Offline ez_ed

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    Re: Firsts
    « Reply #17 on: June 15, 2010, 10:25:21 PM »
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  • My little man's first wave caught solo... ;D
    Followed immediately by his first surf injury upon trying to get back on the board and paddle back out. A solid cut to the forehead requiring medical attention.... :'(
    The best part of it is he wanted more and broke into tears when the docor told him he couldn't surf for 5 days. :)
    "Live like you're dying."

    Online snaggletooth

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    Re: Firsts
    « Reply #18 on: June 16, 2010, 12:07:25 PM »
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  • My little man's first wave caught solo... ;D
    Followed immediately by his first surf injury upon trying to get back on the board and paddle back out. A solid cut to the forehead requiring medical attention.... :'(
    The best part of it is he wanted more and broke into tears when the docor told him he couldn't surf for 5 days. :)

    awwww... sorry about the cut, but he sounds like my kind of guy. good story for him when he's older

    Offline ez_ed

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    Re: Firsts
    « Reply #19 on: June 17, 2010, 01:11:23 PM »
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  • My little man's first wave caught solo... ;D
    Followed immediately by his first surf injury upon trying to get back on the board and paddle back out. A solid cut to the forehead requiring medical attention.... :'(
    The best part of it is he wanted more and broke into tears when the docor told him he couldn't surf for 5 days. :)

    awwww... sorry about the cut, but he sounds like my kind of guy. good story for him when he's older
    I'm pretty partial to the little man, but he really showed me something. I knew he had the natural ability to do things like skate/surf/play sports but he always had seemed not to have a real desire to do them(he probably likes playing leggos about as much as sliding across a glassy face or riding in the half pipe) but Monday was the first time he showed me how much he loved surfing. One thing for sure is, if there's even the most minor ripple in the water this weekend, I'm taking him surfing WITH HIS SOFT TOP.
    "Live like you're dying."

    Offline LBSurfer21

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    Re: Firsts
    « Reply #20 on: August 04, 2010, 12:23:18 PM »
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  • Got my first longboard a week ago.

    Caught my first big air last week on that awesome glassy night we had on thursday on my short twinny....

    Offline EbonSurfer

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    Re: Firsts
    « Reply #21 on: August 05, 2010, 07:39:52 PM »
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  • Thank you, ed
    "Keep it off my wave. Keep it off my wave. Keep it off my wave, my wave!"  Soundgarden

    Offline EbonSurfer

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    Re: Firsts
    « Reply #22 on: August 05, 2010, 07:42:34 PM »
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  • Thanks, Jack. Just sharing what I experienced.
    "Keep it off my wave. Keep it off my wave. Keep it off my wave, my wave!"  Soundgarden

    Offline EastEndWahine

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    Re: Firsts
    « Reply #23 on: August 25, 2010, 02:30:15 PM »
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  • First cheater five!!!!!  And I didn't fall off right after.  I managed to work back to the middle of the board but the wave petered out on me.  Not the best, but I finally got 5 toes on the end.   8) 8) 8)   I'm starting to really like longboarding.
    "Once you have flown, you will walk the Earth with your eyes turned skyward; for there you have been, there you long to return."  da Vinci

    Offline rockyveiga

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    Re: Firsts
    « Reply #24 on: August 26, 2010, 10:21:52 AM »
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  • 4 months ago in costa rica, when i paddled out to a head high wave, got tossed over the falls, leash whips my shoulder and as i'm in the cycle motion leash wraps around my neck and i very patiently under water released, got back up smiling, paddled back out and rode the next one for like a minute back to the shore and back to my tent in time for breakfast.
    • I Play Fa Keeps! •

    Offline ez_ed

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    Re: Firsts
    « Reply #25 on: November 11, 2010, 06:44:46 PM »
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  • This past week my 10 year old daughter caught her first head high wave and proceeded to cruise down the line and angle all the way to the sand with a big smile on her face, my 5 year old son had a session where he caught about 15 waves on his own and caught about a 4 foot face for himself(slightly overhead for him) and nailed his first fakie rock n roll. Even an old coot like me figured out a new front side speed run for myself and was pumping like I was at a concrete J-Bay.
    Firsts are always filled with such stoke.....
    "Live like you're dying."

    Online Jack Crank

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    Re: Firsts
    « Reply #26 on: December 14, 2010, 03:08:59 PM »
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  • Yesterday I was told that I got a nice little cover up.  I didn't realize that my stalling had worked but if that dude wasn't lying, I got my first barrel yesterday.

    Offline EastEndWahine

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    Re: Firsts
    « Reply #27 on: April 28, 2011, 12:53:15 AM »
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  • Totally stoked today...Session #1 on my longboard and scored some good nose rides in fickle and peaky waves, and only lost my board once in 3 hours.  Second session on the shortboard I got my first legit frontside schwack that I was pleased with and know I nailed.  I've had a few ok ones here and there, but this was perfect (or at least felt perfect)...race around the whitewater, good bottom turn, hit off the top with a nice smacking sound, back down the face and on for another schwack, a little less perfect but still good.  Even got a compliment on the wave.  Ok...it's a minor stepping stone, but I'm most definitely stoked!!
    "Once you have flown, you will walk the Earth with your eyes turned skyward; for there you have been, there you long to return."  da Vinci

    Online SeaCliff

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    Re: Firsts
    « Reply #28 on: April 28, 2011, 01:21:13 PM »
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  • Totally stoked today...Session #1 on my longboard and scored some good nose rides in fickle and peaky waves, and only lost my board once in 3 hours.  Second session on the shortboard I got my first legit frontside schwack that I was pleased with and know I nailed.  I've had a few ok ones here and there, but this was perfect (or at least felt perfect)...race around the whitewater, good bottom turn, hit off the top with a nice smacking sound, back down the face and on for another schwack, a little less perfect but still good.  Even got a compliment on the wave.  Ok...it's a minor stepping stone, but I'm most definitely stoked!!

    awesome.  ;D ;D ;D ;D
    Meet me in the Land of Hope and Dreams.

    Online Jack Crank

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    Re: Firsts
    « Reply #29 on: July 22, 2011, 12:28:44 PM »
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  • Weekend before last I had my first surf on my first board that I shaped myself.  Blew some fins frontside too for one of my first times.  Feels so so good.