Author Topic: Building Swell Stoke!  (Read 459 times)

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Offline ez_ed

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Building Swell Stoke!
« on: December 05, 2009, 01:14:05 AM »
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  • Paddled out at choppy slightly onshore Alii's with the 7' Aipa Stingah--a shortboard on steroids--
    for some head plus rights into the toilet bowl. After a few fun ones I see Puaena Pt. and Avalanche indicator sets starting to unload. Paddling out I got clipped before finally making it outside. I assess the lineup and realize that there were only 4 surfers in the lineup. I guess the clean up set sent everyone else in.
    Wait and wait for the wide swinger and it comes. Pop up, peak right and it's shutting down. Hook a left and it's Christmas morning---just a big ass burly face. I pump a bit and aim for the closeout section and figure, eff it, and slam the section. Miraculously I stay on my board. Stoked!
    I manage to make it back out and catch some more burly ass closeout rights before heading in for some Coor's Lights. Gerry Lopez was right when he said, "all it takes is ONE wave (to make a session memorable)."

    Tomorrow should be pretty serious and STILL BUILDING. Winds permitting, the Eddie will probably go Monday. Stay tuned.
    « Last Edit: December 05, 2009, 01:30:07 AM by ez_ed »
    "Live like you're dying."

    Online SeaCliff

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    Re: Building Swell Stoke!
    « Reply #1 on: December 05, 2009, 08:23:50 AM »
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  • Excellent..!

    We have a L on top of us here now, hoping that the backside of it leaves us some clean lines to tear in to...anticipation is half the fun. Go get 'em Ed!

     ;D ;D ;D
    Meet me in the Land of Hope and Dreams.

    Offline ez_ed

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    Re: Building Swell Stoke!
    « Reply #2 on: December 05, 2009, 03:02:46 PM »
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  • Sweet Jesus, it's big!
    The ONLY remotely rideable wave is Waimea.


    Out of my league. I opted for the skate park instead. :-\
    "Live like you're dying."

    Online SeaCliff

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    Re: Building Swell Stoke!
    « Reply #3 on: December 05, 2009, 03:06:30 PM »
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  • Sweet Jesus, it's big!
    The ONLY remotely rideable wave is Waimea.


    Out of my league. I opted for the skate park instead. :-\

    Holy crap, if it's out of your league, it must be huge.

    Pics, Ed - post up some pics!

    Meet me in the Land of Hope and Dreams.

    Offline ez_ed

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    Re: Building Swell Stoke!
    « Reply #4 on: December 05, 2009, 08:40:16 PM »
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  • Dude, you know me and cameras. Haha.


    I saw about 100 photographers shooting Waimea from Kam Hway and one
    of them was the Hawaiian Watershots guy so...should be plenty of pics there and
    on surfline tomorrow.


    It gets BIGGER on Monday. 40 to 50 ft. faces!! I'm calculating that will mean Chocolates
    will be head high. Haha.


    www.surfline.com
    www.hawaiianwatershots.com


    I pushed my son into a reform of a reform of a reform and he caught some sick little zippers for himself at a "spot" that nobody can remember ever seeing break. N: "That was the best i've ever surfed, dad!" Me:"You'll surf even better tomorrow, holmes." N:"No way!!!!" Me: "Way!!!!"


    One of the best days of surfing i've ever experienced and I never even caught a wave for myself.
    "Live like you're dying."

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    Re: Building Swell Stoke!
    « Reply #5 on: December 05, 2009, 09:20:49 PM »
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  • Dude, you know me and cameras. Haha.


    I saw about 100 photographers shooting Waimea from Kam Hway and one
    of them was the Hawaiian Watershots guy so...should be plenty of pics there and
    on surfline tomorrow.


    It gets BIGGER on Monday. 40 to 50 ft. faces!! I'm calculating that will mean Chocolates
    will be head high. Haha.


    [url=http://www.surfline.com]www.surfline.com[/url]
    [url=http://www.hawaiianwatershots.com]www.hawaiianwatershots.com[/url]


    I pushed my son into a reform of a reform of a reform and he caught some sick little zippers for himself at a "spot" that nobody can remember ever seeing break. N: "That was the best i've ever surfed, dad!" Me:"You'll surf even better tomorrow, holmes." N:"No way!!!!" Me: "Way!!!!"


    One of the best days of surfing i've ever experienced and I never even caught a wave for myself.


    NICE!

    And I think we're going to have to send a digital cam out your way fro christmas LOL

    Here's a shot Ian Cairns shot from the highway today as he drove past waimea..taken a long way off, but from his estimation, 20ft sets....

    Meet me in the Land of Hope and Dreams.

    Offline ez_ed

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    Re: Building Swell Stoke!
    « Reply #6 on: December 05, 2009, 11:56:17 PM »
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  • [size=medium]Waimea Bay 12.05 - surferPix.com[/size]
    "Live like you're dying."

    ya_bloody_wanka

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    Re: Building Swell Stoke!
    « Reply #7 on: December 06, 2009, 03:28:49 AM »
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  • fark SUP

    Offline ez_ed

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    Re: Building Swell Stoke!
    « Reply #8 on: December 06, 2009, 01:21:36 PM »
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  • fark SUP
    To each his own, but i'd reserve comment until you've at least tried it out or ever surfed a wave remotely resembling the one in the shot. The guy in that shot has my full respect for his ability to respectfully charge and pick off set waves at 20 ft Waimea deeper than 90% of the guys at the Bay.
    "Live like you're dying."

    ya_bloody_wanka

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    Re: Building Swell Stoke!
    « Reply #9 on: December 06, 2009, 02:08:39 PM »
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  • ahah, well i was a little drunked up last night but thats no excuse. i actually dont like SUP much, at all, but that is pretty crazy chargin wiemia on a SUP.

    Offline ez_ed

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    Re: Building Swell Stoke!
    « Reply #10 on: December 06, 2009, 05:14:35 PM »
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  • ahah, well i was a little drunked up last night but thats no excuse. i actually dont like SUP much, at all, but that is pretty crazy chargin wiemia on a SUP.
    Good enough for me. I agree there's lots of SUP guys who are kinda whack but there's a LOT of really kooky guys and girls out there riding all variety of boards. Many of the ones who have figured out how to turn a shortboard are pretty quick to critique anything that's not a shortboard(especially the ones in California and the East Coat from what i've observed. In Hawaii, there seems to be much less SUP hate for some reason).


    Went out today at the spot in front of my house. Now usually there's 15 or so guys who fancy themselves as "shortboarders" surfing on a typical fun-sized Sunday. Today it was double overhead with plus sets and it was just me on a 10' gun and my buddy on an 11' SUP gun. He has my respect for sure no matter what board he's surfing.
    "Live like you're dying."

    Offline little_nasty

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    Re: Building Swell Stoke!
    « Reply #11 on: December 07, 2009, 01:38:59 AM »
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  • i'm curious when you eat brown trout with a SUP and the paddle.  i mean, is there some technique to taking a beating with the two?  it just seems very difficult to manage in waves of consequence.

     

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