Author Topic: Big "er" Wave STOKE  (Read 407 times)

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Offline frroK

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Big "er" Wave STOKE
« on: December 20, 2009, 08:02:42 PM »
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  • Challenged myself today in some sizable waves...It felt really good to get out in big waves that I am normally not used to. I have not paddled out in anything other than slightly over head in a looooong time. Partly because of injuries I haven't had the guts to paddle out but today I did and im stoked! I got about 4 or 5 waves. Hard to paddle out but I was patient and was able to snag a BomB(for me) on my first wave.  can't wait for PR!  ;D ;D

    Online SeaCliff

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    Re: Big "er" Wave STOKE
    « Reply #1 on: December 20, 2009, 08:09:13 PM »
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  • Excellent, frokkster!

    Hope you score all that and more in PR!
    Meet me in the Land of Hope and Dreams.

    Online ankleslapper

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    Re: Big "er" Wave STOKE
    « Reply #2 on: December 20, 2009, 10:15:09 PM »
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  • heard you had an awesome morning frrok -- wish I had seen a few.  what were you riding?  sounds like you just had a day out there...
    the A is a small price to pay

    Offline ez_ed

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    Re: Big "er" Wave STOKE
    « Reply #3 on: December 20, 2009, 11:36:27 PM »
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  • Nice!
    "Live like you're dying."

    Offline nycwipeout

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    Re: Big "er" Wave STOKE
    « Reply #4 on: December 20, 2009, 11:37:44 PM »
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  • stoked for you mate!


    so stoked to surf with the "team" as we were about the only people out there


    rock on rockaway locals!!!!!!!


    read it and weep if you weren't on it
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    you might change your face, but it won't change the face that made you

    Offline onefinookas

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    Re: Big "er" Wave STOKE
    « Reply #5 on: December 21, 2009, 10:07:04 AM »
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  • goodonya frock, its always nice to step it up and push your comfort level.  Go shred the PR gnar!!!!
    "Long Beach Rule you cant stand up on a bodyboard." Guillespe.  "I have the rules, it doesn't say that anywhere" me.  "Its our rule, its always been our rule, I make the rules" guillespe.  "Thats not really fair you just made that rule up" me.  "go to the surf beach" Guillespe.  "Wont I get kicked out for ridind a bodyboard" me. "Yes" Guillespe. Damned if I do, Damned if I dont.  We love LB

    Offline frroK

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    Re: Big "er" Wave STOKE
    « Reply #6 on: December 21, 2009, 10:47:37 AM »
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  • I was on a 5'11 SDII !!  HA!  thanks guys...It feels good. Im still on a high.
     
    I honestly think staying relaxed as possible and having patience is the key... If your not used to surfing waves like that you really need to be cuz you can get into a bad situation quick.  There are some of us who are just comfortable in stuff like that... and they usually get more waves. I tried to just pick the ones that I knew wouldn't crush me...that was my goal really...LOL.

    Offline Crackie Onassis

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    Re: Big "er" Wave STOKE
    « Reply #7 on: December 21, 2009, 01:39:36 PM »
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  • That was a fun surf. A tough out but worthwhile. Energy level was low after shoveling snow. . .

    Missed Frrok by about 10 minutes but saw NYCWO get a big ol hack on a well-overhead wave. Nice to see some vertical surfing. I hope Psycho got that one .. . .
    So heavy you can't even pick it up.

    Offline nycwipeout

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    Re: Big "er" Wave STOKE
    « Reply #8 on: December 21, 2009, 04:17:22 PM »
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  • and i didn't heed my own advice of not going on the first wave of a set, hit a speed bump when about to pig-dog and got launched....next solid OH set wave had crackie on a throater while I was still getting dragged by my board


    I robbed Rob - sorry mate!


    If it's any consolation Crackie, I took the next 4 consecutive bombs squarely on the head - boy that had me drained - and I'm sure it was a great spectacle for the crowd  :P  always happy to put on a kOoK show for y'all
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    you might change your face, but it won't change the face that made you

    Offline frroK

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    Re: Big "er" Wave STOKE
    « Reply #9 on: December 21, 2009, 05:08:02 PM »
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  • damn...I wish I would have stayed tyo see your wave alex... But I was freexing up on the boardwalk...  I was conteplating paddling back out after my last wave...but hten I quickly realized that my Nose was numb...LOL!   I was pretty satisfied on the 5 or so waves I got...

    Online Looseness

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    Re: Big "er" Wave STOKE
    « Reply #10 on: December 22, 2009, 11:18:13 AM »
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  • I was on a 5'11 SDII !!  HA!  thanks guys...It feels good. Im still on a high.
     
    I honestly think staying relaxed as possible and having patience is the key... If your not used to surfing waves like that you really need to be cuz you can get into a bad situation quick.  There are some of us who are just comfortable in stuff like that... and they usually get more waves. I tried to just pick the ones that I knew wouldn't crush me...that was my goal really...LOL.

    Besides being patient, I think you snagged the ones in the shadow of the jetty that had less bump on them which was a SMART move. I was not being picky/patient enough and hunting bombs that had BUMPS and were often too walled up to make. I calmed down and was more selective the second session and had a blast. Oh and that first wave you took was a ledgey beast! SICK.
    It's no better to be safe than sorry....

    Offline frroK

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    Re: Big "er" Wave STOKE
    « Reply #11 on: December 23, 2009, 12:39:40 PM »
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  • that thing was a monster!!! hahaha...it let me in pretty easily but I caould tell when I was on the wave that I could have used bigger fins...by board didnt feel solid in the wave...lenght was fine...But  wished I had bigger fins to control my speed. I have the perfect fins for next time....I'll be ready!  ;)

    Offline snaggletooth

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    Re: Big "er" Wave STOKE
    « Reply #12 on: December 23, 2009, 01:20:22 PM »
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  • awesome frr(A)k! what fins are you thinking? what did you have in?

    Offline frroK

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    Re: Big "er" Wave STOKE
    « Reply #13 on: December 23, 2009, 02:37:47 PM »
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  • awesome frr(A)k! what fins are you thinking? what did you have in?
    F3 Futures...  prob could have used F4's for the TPs...

     

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