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sublimelbc
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« on: May 15, 2008, 09:11:26 PM » |
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I woke up late this morning and made myself some egg whites and toast with some OJ. Checked the waves and wind models while enjoying breakfast, and decided to head over to the skatepark for some mini-ramp action. Apparently, skateparks don't open till 12, so I hop the fence and score an hour or so of empty mini-ramp. Finish off with a 360 with grab (im pumped.) Decide to bail while i still have most of my skin intact and run some errands quick. Back to the house by 3, check the cams again and load my stuff up. After checking a popular central spot, which was unrideable, I decided to risk it and go to a more, erhhh, off track spot. Nobody else is in the parking lot so I start walking. I throw a thumb to a friendly fisherman who was nice enough to give me a lift (thanks). He drops me off right where I need to get, and I run over to check it. A perfect stomach high line fades into the horizon. Stuffing into my suit, the wind is a super light onshore flow. The kind of wind that you can tell is there, but not enough to effect the water surface. Beyond one or two fisherman spread out along the beach, there is nobody in sight. I stash my stuff in a safe spot and run in the water. What's really cool about this spot it that you can stand around in between sets and still be in position (talk about making it easy for a marathon session.) First wave, jet down the line of a stomach high screamer for easily 100+ yards and throw in a fun little cutty with all that speed to burn. I run back and repeat for a few hours, throughout which not even a soul checks. By this time the wind has gone offshore at about 2 mph, making for those oil slick conditions, but just enough wind to hold the spray seemingly in place as the lips fall. The tide is starting to drop a little now, along with a fading swell and beyond some waist high closeouts there isn't much left to it. I grab one more and decide to call it a day. Walking back up the beach to my stuff. Just as I pull my neck strap off, somebody turned the switch on again as a waist high line peels beyond view. The strap goes back over my bloody and rashed neck. I don't feel like putting my gloves on, so for the first time of the season I get back into the water with free hands. I can feel my fingers vibrating as the cold water wraps around them paddling. A storm is coming off the land now creating a purplesque backdrop. The swell is still in the waist high range, peeling with minimum effort. The sun is getting lower, which in turn has created back/side lit waves making for an incredible light show. I pull into one last baby barrel, a paper thin lip folds over me as a slide into it. I look right threw it and can see the beach. It has gotten inconsistent by now, with the occasional waist high line coming through. It's too perfect of a day to leave yet, I put my board on the beach and get my first body surf session of the summer in. The purple is consuming more and more of the sky, the sun is getting lower and lower. I have a long walk ahead of my tenderized arms and legs, but it's a small price to pay for a magical (yag) avro.
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