[Looseness]

man, what i wouldn't give for hurricane bill again. it's the fact that we were pretty much trunking it that sealed it for me. when it's big and COLD, it's just less fun and it's harder to be out so long. and, when it's that big, i only catch about 1 or 2 an hour, sadly.

I'm happy as long as I'm in a 4ml and boots. The added poundage and inflexibility of the serious rubber {i can't do less than 6ml in real winter} definitely cramp my style....

[SeaCliff]

man, what i wouldn't give for hurricane bill again. it's the fact that we were pretty much trunking it that sealed it for me. when it's big and COLD, it's just less fun and it's harder to be out so long. and, when it's that big, i only catch about 1 or 2 an hour, sadly.

I'd love a Hurricane Bill again, too...but this time with some sleep. I basically drove all night after a family wedding several hours upstate just to get back....but it was oh-so-worth it. Would've been even better with a full night's sleep. Then again, pre-stoke jitters probably would have kept me up all night anyway. 

[pefa]

 
takin a look at this shot & thinkin of what da conditions were like (d.o. on her and a pullin in....), makes me wonder,
is there a female division for the dean? there should be......
damn big eggs
chhhheeeeeeeeeehhhhhoooooooooooooooooooooo

[onefinookas]

she opted not to where her jersey that day otherwise she would have been a shoe in.  This was taken shortly after she got her first board from Tom P and she had probably been surfing all of two years, my girl has balls and plenty of them.

[snaggletooth]

thanks, pefa, but that's not a very big wave - i'd say head high ++ a little? i have some bigger pics. some from valentine's day in CA - i rode my 5'7 cause it didn't look that big. it ended up being a bit bigger than most of the east coast pics i have.
 
we do have a female division and some chargers: theusername and cari, i believe, plus others i'm forgetting.

[ya_bloody_wanka]

havent been scared in ny in a loooong time since probaly taht blizzard swell i think in 06? when i tried taking a late take off on a random bomb and ate brown trout and got held under for 2 waves, friend thoguht i drowned

that was an awesome day.  It was the first time I wasn't terrified since my rocktober fall.

it was an awesome day i had one of hte best sessions i had up until that day. super fun day

[three_fins_out]

Hard to believe it's been since years since the famous March 11th swell - damn, time flies.

I know what it looked like first hand, and first hand I've never seen anything like it around here in my lifetime, but I dont recall what the buoy numbers were for the day. Anyone know how it "officially" stacked up?

nice post SC was just having visions of 3/11 the other day...definitely was one of the biggest and cleanest days i remember from surfing on the east coast (or anywhere really for that matter)

for some reason the trick or treat its ten feet from 92 stands out, but maybe thats cuz i was a little squirt! drift was intense

think cold water + big waves is way more challenging than hurricane swells. now where i surf is cold year round...yippee! 


 

[little_nasty]

a lot of people trying to pick off the shoulders which i can tell you was a mistake.

how come? Were there rocks around? Or were they at risk of getting cleaned up

Probably simply fear/survival instinct at work. I know that's what usually kicks in for me.

I think what LN was referring too was that although the shoulder's were a tad smaller, I suspect it was harder to 'shoulder hop' then it would have been to actually taken off closer to the peak? Sometimes when it's big(and especially big and peaky) it might actually be safer to take off in the take off zone than the shoulder. They say this is exactly the case at Tea'hpuoo...Not that I would know

Yeah...all kidding aside, I'm sure he'll come on and clarify, but my feeling was that he was referring to the fact that once the wave was already breaking and freight-training down the line, it would just eat you for lunch and keep going of you tried to jump on board.

just to follow-up, yea - mostly as the guys are saying.  i mean it was pretty big and at times a bit windy, the waves training down the line, and one of those days where it felt like the wall got bigger/faster until it either pooped you out or, more often, walled up and dared you chicken out or to shoot and risk taking a serious thumping.  and yes, end of the end of the line was heaving shore pound onto noggin' size rocks.
 
nevertheless, paddling into the "shoulder" with that much water moving up the face and the wind likely meant a late drop, especially if you were riding something too wide or too short.  And a late drop + accelerating and growing wall = fair share of poundings.
 
the good news was that you could pick just about any wave you wanted.

[NYCWATERSHOTS]

I think this was Nov 2006...it was big but not March 11 big...

[jellyfish]

Anyone recall Felix in 95.  My memory might be wrong, but I remember that swell being huge (I was in Montauk for Felix and LB for 3/11, so I might be comparing apples and oranges).

[nycwipeout]

not many people out on 3/11 but it was strangely easier to surf than days that have been smaller, a lot more organized once the period came up more, but initially when those new swells start there's absolutely no lulls at all


Felix was insane too but I didn't have my board with me, must say I wasn't bummed

[little_nasty]

Anyone recall Felix in 95.  My memory might be wrong, but I remember that swell being huge (I was in Montauk for Felix and LB for 3/11, so I might be comparing apples and oranges).

oh yeah - Felix was great!  I surfed just E of LB proper and scored some awesome ones.  Especially this one which just sticks out in my mind.  I was kinda overgunned on my 6'2" swallow (magic board though, rip), but it was nice and clean, a handful of guys out where i was, despite an easy paddle .  Really only me and this one other guy trading set waves at the peak (a guy who apparently has a somewhat aggro rep i found out later).
 
I remember one killer set breaking way outside and had to scratch hard to get over it, probably wouldn't have gone, but that guy was screaming at me to go! go! go!  So i spun and barely scratched under the lip.  could only manage a super high line.  don't know how i didn't get pitched (notable on a late-drop right).  then i just remember the backlit green wall and a floater-like sensation.  that guy was a stoked as i was.  so much fun.

[Kyle]

Happy Belated Birthday, Dorado!

[hexnotes]

Have to post this pic in this thread, just cuz I've been staring at it for a few months now.  Mostly I use it as motivation for my workouts.  I think this is from the morning of Bill, looks like a clean up set and yeah..definately ain't no beachbreak.

[little_nasty]

Have to post this pic in this thread, just cuz I've been staring at it for a few months now.  Mostly I use it as motivation for my workouts.  I think this is from the morning of Bill, looks like a clean up set and yeah..definately ain't no beachbreak.

awesome pic!!
 
i don't see much thrashing for a cleanup set.  geez, why isn't anyone going?