Just watched Riding Giants again on Fuel....

[SeaCliff]

I think I could watch it a million times, and never grow tired. So magnificent.

 

These things you keep
Youd better throw them away
You wanna turn your back
On your soulless days
Once you were tethered
And now you are free
Once you were tethered
Well now you are free
That was the river
This is the sea!

Now if youre feelin weary
If youve been alone too long
Maybe youve been suffering from
A few too many
Plans that have gone wrong
And youre trying to remember
How fine your life used to be
Running around banging your drum
Like its 1973
Well that was the river
This is the sea!
Wooo!

Now you say youve got trouble
You say youve got pain
You sayve got nothing left to believe in
Nothing to hold on to
Nothing to trust
Nothing but chains
Youre scouring your conscience
Raking through your memories
Scouring your conscience
Raking through your memories
But that was the river
This is the sea yeah!

Now I can see you wavering
As you try to decide
Youve got a war in your head
And its tearing you up inside
Youre trying to make sense
Of something that you just cant see
Trying to make sense now
And you know you once held the key
But that was the river
And this is the sea!
Yeah yeah yeah yeah yeah yeah yeah!

Now I hear theres a train
Its coming on down the line
Its yours if you hurry
Youve got still enough time
And you dont need no ticket
And you dont pay no fee
No you dont need no ticket
You dont pay no fee
Because that was the river
And this is the sea!

Behold the sea!

 

[SeaCliff]

"The last time I was at Waimea, I swear I looked out and she winked at me...I remember you, Greg Noll...I'm still your gal."

 

[SeaCliff]

God bless youtube:

<a href="http://www.youtube.com/v/7gn-drk_zN0" target="_blank">http://www.youtube.com/v/7gn-drk_zN0</a>

If listening to da bull can't make you feel it, then nothing ever, ever could. Now if y'all will excuse me, I'm gonna go surf.

 

[EastEndWahine]

"adrenaline dripping out of your ears"   

[ez_ed]

He was in Surfer Mag a couple years ago describing how he felt when he flew over to Hawaii and had "that feeling". HIS feeling was different than 99% of surfers coming over. He wanted to "attack". He REALLY WANTED to ride the biggest waves he could find.

Now I know there's a few out there who literally do it for love, but I'd say there are very few like Noll, who truly WANT the biggest waves. Don't get me wrong, lots of guys surf big waves but few  do it for that simple motivation. Lots of guys are looking for fame, $, status, etc. These guys back in the day just charged out of love. Props to Noll, Pat Curren, Buzzy Trent, Ricky Grigg, my lineup mate Kimo Hollinger, and all those pioneers. These guys did it without modern equipment, sponsorship $, modern equipment, jetskis or even LEASHES!!

[SeaCliff]

"adrenaline dripping out of your ears"  

A great quote amongst many in that movie.. 

He was in Surfer Mag a couple years ago describing how he felt when he flew over to Hawaii and had "that feeling". HIS feeling was different than 99% of surfers coming over. He wanted to "attack". He REALLY WANTED to ride the biggest waves he could find.

Now I know there's a few out there who literally do it for love, but I'd say there are very few like Noll, who truly WANT the biggest waves. Don't get me wrong, lots of guys surf big waves but few  do it for that simple motivation. Lots of guys are looking for fame, $, status, etc. These guys back in the day just charged out of love. Props to Noll, Pat Curren, Buzzy Trent, Ricky Grigg, my lineup mate Kimo Hollinger, and all those pioneers. These guys did it without modern equipment, sponsorship $, modern equipment, jetskis or even LEASHES!!

You nailed it, Ed. They were pioneers, and it was all just the pure love of the sport. Found a couple of waves around here today that were a bit overhead and for a moment I tried to imagine what it must have been like for them to paddle into waves that were 4, 5 and 6 times that size in an era when only a handful were doing it or even attempting it. Great, great stuff.

 

[Joe Bama!]

"adrenaline dripping out of your ears"  

A great quote amongst many in that movie.. 

He was in Surfer Mag a couple years ago describing how he felt when he flew over to Hawaii and had "that feeling". HIS feeling was different than 99% of surfers coming over. He wanted to "attack". He REALLY WANTED to ride the biggest waves he could find.

Now I know there's a few out there who literally do it for love, but I'd say there are very few like Noll, who truly WANT the biggest waves. Don't get me wrong, lots of guys surf big waves but few  do it for that simple motivation. Lots of guys are looking for fame, $, status, etc. These guys back in the day just charged out of love. Props to Noll, Pat Curren, Buzzy Trent, Ricky Grigg, my lineup mate Kimo Hollinger, and all those pioneers. These guys did it without modern equipment, sponsorship $, modern equipment, jetskis or even LEASHES!!

You nailed it, Ed. They were pioneers, and it was all just the pure love of the sport. Found a couple of waves around here today that were a bit overhead and for a moment I tried to imagine what it must have been like for them to paddle into waves that were 4, 5 and 6 times that size in an era when only a handful were doing it or even attempting it. Great, great stuff.

 

That reminds me of the time in the mid 90's, when I first crossed the bridge from Brooklyn to The R*ck on the Q35 bus with my 7'6 Plastic Fantastic in hand. I wanted to attack the 1-2 ft. mush with avengeance.
Now I just surf for the sponsorship and $$$. 

[SeaCliff]

"adrenaline dripping out of your ears"  

A great quote amongst many in that movie.. 

He was in Surfer Mag a couple years ago describing how he felt when he flew over to Hawaii and had "that feeling". HIS feeling was different than 99% of surfers coming over. He wanted to "attack". He REALLY WANTED to ride the biggest waves he could find.

Now I know there's a few out there who literally do it for love, but I'd say there are very few like Noll, who truly WANT the biggest waves. Don't get me wrong, lots of guys surf big waves but few  do it for that simple motivation. Lots of guys are looking for fame, $, status, etc. These guys back in the day just charged out of love. Props to Noll, Pat Curren, Buzzy Trent, Ricky Grigg, my lineup mate Kimo Hollinger, and all those pioneers. These guys did it without modern equipment, sponsorship $, modern equipment, jetskis or even LEASHES!!

You nailed it, Ed. They were pioneers, and it was all just the pure love of the sport. Found a couple of waves around here today that were a bit overhead and for a moment I tried to imagine what it must have been like for them to paddle into waves that were 4, 5 and 6 times that size in an era when only a handful were doing it or even attempting it. Great, great stuff.

 

That reminds me of the time in the mid 90's, when I first crossed the bridge from Brooklyn to The R*ck on the Q35 bus with my 7'6 Plastic Fantastic in hand. I wanted to attack the 1-2 ft. mush with avengeance.
Now I just surf for the sponsorship and $$$. 

Oh, cmon, Yo Bama - it was always about the money. 

[Joe Bama!]

"adrenaline dripping out of your ears"  

A great quote amongst many in that movie.. 

He was in Surfer Mag a couple years ago describing how he felt when he flew over to Hawaii and had "that feeling". HIS feeling was different than 99% of surfers coming over. He wanted to "attack". He REALLY WANTED to ride the biggest waves he could find.

Now I know there's a few out there who literally do it for love, but I'd say there are very few like Noll, who truly WANT the biggest waves. Don't get me wrong, lots of guys surf big waves but few  do it for that simple motivation. Lots of guys are looking for fame, $, status, etc. These guys back in the day just charged out of love. Props to Noll, Pat Curren, Buzzy Trent, Ricky Grigg, my lineup mate Kimo Hollinger, and all those pioneers. These guys did it without modern equipment, sponsorship $, modern equipment, jetskis or even LEASHES!!

You nailed it, Ed. They were pioneers, and it was all just the pure love of the sport. Found a couple of waves around here today that were a bit overhead and for a moment I tried to imagine what it must have been like for them to paddle into waves that were 4, 5 and 6 times that size in an era when only a handful were doing it or even attempting it. Great, great stuff.

 

That reminds me of the time in the mid 90's, when I first crossed the bridge from Brooklyn to The R*ck on the Q35 bus with my 7'6 Plastic Fantastic in hand. I wanted to attack the 1-2 ft. mush with avengeance.
Now I just surf for the sponsorship and $$$. 

Oh, cmon, Yo Bama - it was always about the money. 

you're right, It was always about the benjamins and all the girls!

[EastEndWahine]

It's hard for me to imagine the mentality of wanting to attack the biggest waves possible, especially in Hawaii..  I mean, I readily admit to being scared when it starts getting head + around here.  Guess I surf for different reasons/emotions but it all comes back to the same love for the ocean.

Sorta like what ez_ed was saying, I still find it completely jaw-dropping that he paddled out on that huge freakin day...alone...on that heavy plank without any sort of leash...no jetskis waiting to pluck you out of trouble...no helicopters to airlift you out

[SeaCliff]

It's hard for me to imagine the mentality of wanting to attack the biggest waves possible, especially in Hawaii..  I mean, I readily admit to being scared when it starts getting head + around here.  Guess I surf for different reasons/emotions but it all comes back to the same love for the ocean.

Sorta like what ez_ed was saying, I still find it completely jaw-dropping that he paddled out on that huge freakin day...alone...on that heavy plank without any sort of leash...no jetskis waiting to pluck you out of trouble...no helicopters to airlift you out

Always wished I could ask him how badly he got worked on that wave, and what it was like trying to get back in...I'm sure that's a great story all by itself....

[Crackie Onassis]

What about Giants?

[SeaCliff]

"Behold, The Sea."

 

[Crackie Onassis]

"Behold, The Sea."

 

Behold the Stra-han

[Igotsoul4u]

i was so pissed I missed riding giants in the theater.  That must have been amazing.  Still love that movie also.