UNCLE!!
FOF
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local riff raff
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« Reply #30 on: June 27, 2008, 12:28:28 PM » |
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I rarely use a leash. Hate the damn things. Also, rarely lose my board. Finish with a turn, sixty of a kickout.
I like you're new name... It suits ya!!  |
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« Last Edit: June 27, 2008, 09:26:17 PM by SeaCliff, Reason: Repaired error in quote system. »
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 OK, ok.... So maybe multiple fins are a good thing. |
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Mark E
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« Reply #31 on: June 27, 2008, 12:37:00 PM » |
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I def surf leashless more in the winter because there are less people out. I would say winter is the only time I worry about the swim in because I am in a 6mm suit and taking a lot of cold waves on the head can be nasty. Also I don't seem to be able to body surf in the winter suit.
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"Take care of your knees, you'll miss them when they are gone"
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Crackie Onassis
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« Reply #32 on: June 27, 2008, 02:42:22 PM » |
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When I ride a longboard, most of my waves are finished with me sinking the nose as I walk off the end of the plank.
Practitioners must learn to hold onto their boards.
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Palin is as Palin does.
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Bubba
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« Reply #33 on: June 27, 2008, 02:56:20 PM » |
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When I ride a longboard, most of my waves are finished with me sinking the nose as I walk off the end of the plank.
Me too. Happens all the time. I am the king of the graceless dismount. |
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ankleslapper
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« Reply #34 on: June 27, 2008, 03:22:58 PM » |
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On a closeout I usually end up straightening out/riding to shore. UNCLE's heard me say that I have a hard time kicking out backside when it's about to dump. Some guys heave a log over the back like it's a toothpick. My rare favorite is being up toward the nose, grabbing the outside rail, turning head into the wave and it just washing over (small closeouts). Sometimes I go for "wrestle the alligator" and get washed all the way in doing something like a dead cockroach. Good thread, it's something I've been trying to focus on recently.
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Mark E
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« Reply #35 on: June 27, 2008, 07:30:38 PM » |
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On a closeout I usually end up straightening out/riding to shore. UNCLE's heard me say that I have a hard time kicking out backside when it's about to dump. Some guys heave a log over the back like it's a toothpick. My rare favorite is being up toward the nose, grabbing the outside rail, turning head into the wave and it just washing over (small closeouts). Sometimes I go for "wrestle the alligator" and get washed all the way in doing something like a dead cockroach. Good thread, it's something I've been trying to focus on recently.
Wrestled a lot of alligators this afternoon. It's actually a pleasure when the alligator is only 8 feet long. The nine sixes can really wear you out. |
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"Take care of your knees, you'll miss them when they are gone"
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EastEndWahine
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« Reply #36 on: June 27, 2008, 09:09:22 PM » |
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It's probably kooky but when the wave's about to close out sometimes I'll just make a hard turn towards the wave and let the momentum launch me into the air. Sometimes I can get pretty high  It's fun, but that's not really controlling my board. I've gotten pretty good at just kicking out of a wave and landing in the water with the board under my arm. I want to work on the kickout where you kinda grab the rails and land back on your board ready to paddle back out. I don't really surf leashless but I make it a goal to at least try to control my board as much as I can, as if I weren't wearing a leash. I'm still in that phase of trying to learn more maneuvers on my shortboard so I'm being pretty lax. |
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UNCLE!!
FOF
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« Reply #37 on: June 27, 2008, 11:01:49 PM » |
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It's probably kooky but when the wave's about to close out sometimes I'll just make a hard turn towards the wave and let the momentum launch me into the air. Sometimes I can get pretty high It's fun, but that's not really controlling my board. I've gotten pretty good at just kicking out of a wave and landing in the water with the board under my arm. I want to work on the kickout where you kinda grab the rails and land back on your board ready to paddle back out. I don't really surf leashless but I make it a goal to at least try to control my board as much as I can, as if I weren't wearing a leash. I'm still in that phase of trying to learn more maneuvers on my shortboard so I'm being pretty lax. Good On'ya! Leashless shortboarding is way harder... |
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OK, ok.... So maybe multiple fins are a good thing. |
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Looseness
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« Reply #38 on: June 27, 2008, 11:53:43 PM » |
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board ditching is a whole other thread!
I definitely need to make an effort at finishing waves better, when i kick out over the wave half the time i still jump off next to the board, but for some reason it's never a problem when it's the last one to drop back to prone and belly ride it in...don't know what my problem is...fark i want to go out now and fix this!
I don't think jumping off next to the board is bad if you kicked out, at least you're under control. I love the flying kickouts on bigger days but I landed on top of this guy one time.... |
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“You’re ruining it for everyone, going across the wave like that!”
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north st.
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« Reply #39 on: June 27, 2008, 11:57:26 PM » |
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I've been riding my longboard leashless lately and really love it.....it really makes you think about the ending. I switched up today and got my grovel shortboard out today with a leash and it really felt freakin weird to be strapped to the board....
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The Lone Surfer
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« Reply #40 on: June 28, 2008, 12:06:58 AM » |
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I don't think jumping off next to the board is bad if you kicked out, at least you're under control. I love the flying kickouts on bigger days but I landed on top of this guy one time.... That must have been awkward. "oh, pardon me, sir." |
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UNCLE!!
FOF
Local Hero
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« Reply #41 on: June 28, 2008, 02:16:56 PM » |
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OK, ok.... So maybe multiple fins are a good thing. |
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seb70
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??????????????
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« Reply #42 on: June 28, 2008, 04:15:43 PM » |
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oh brown trout  |
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it's 6am, have you seen a donkey?
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elkisthebachelor
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« Reply #43 on: June 30, 2008, 04:42:48 PM » |
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I've had ridiculously good luck riding shortboards without a leash lately - - assuming I don't blow the drop. If that happens, I'm swimming. Other than that, it really makes me think about what's going on with the wave ahead of me and allows me to act accordingly. I don't surf all that great, but I manage to end waves with my board in hand 90%, whether I've stalled out on the tail, or done the bear hug leap and bellied it in.
I just feel more focused without a leash.
That said, it's not the smartest thing in the world to go leashless on a super crowded day. I would hate to be the unlucky sap that puts a kid's eye out or something.
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Free Manson. Take acid.  |
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SeaCliff
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« Reply #44 on: June 30, 2008, 09:31:11 PM » |
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That said, it's not the smartest thing in the world to go leashless on a super crowded day. I would hate to be the unlucky sap that puts a kid's eye out or something.
True, and I talk to grom about this all the time - reminding him that he needs to kick out early when their are people on the beach, esp when the guards are trying their best to cut us a little extra time before they send us to the pen. That said, so many of my waves were shutting down hard and fast today that it wasn't so much a matter of me finishing the wave, it was much more about the wave finishing me. |
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"I could not help concluding that this man felt the most supreme pleasure while he was driven on so fast and so smoothly by the sea…" 40.58°, -73.70°
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