Another great day on the water!
by MikeM, as originally published in “Stories of Stoke” on NYNJSurf.com, September 30, 2006
The catch started off slow in the early morning. Muscling through when the wind blows the boat against the tide can be real frustrating, especially when its howling steady 25 knots and the waves start to stand up. Taking em over the stern for hours and somehow the boat stays afloat… I guess i’m thankful that the catch was slow in the am as it would have brought us down to visit the flying dutchmen. My deckhand is puking over the side and tripping over his own feet, as we motor up for a new drift. A rogue set starts to show and I hear him say OMG as a wall of green water comes over the bow… everything on the deck is washed astern and the water flows smoothly out over the transom. I steer the boat and let her fall off to starboard and settle in for another drift. I love my job! Here comes winter!
For a relaxing breath of air after work, I went to the beach and found a perfect wedge that dropped me into a beautiful right hand bowl! The sun was low in the western sky, the water a beautiful green. Just me myself and I and my truck on the beach. A wave was refracting off the jeddie connecting with the incoming swell and making these beautiful consistent setups. Steep drop right on the peak of the wedge, both feet on the tail of my 9′6, hard bottom turn into the bowl, up the face and down in the pit, work my way through the soft section and into the next wedgy a-frame peak that was as good as the first one, another power turn in the trough and another beautiful blue green bowl! I love my life! Here comes winter!