I’m sure the impending swell will bring new tales of big surf, hold-downs, beatdowns and broken boards..will any compare to this?
Worst Wipeout
by little_nasty, as published in “Stories of Stoke” on NYNJSurf.com August 10, 2006
It was around thanksgiving prolly about 7-8 yrs ago and I flew out to visit my old man in central cali. He was tied up at work this one day and i had brought a board. Umm. it was a 6′8″ byrne supa narrow rounded pin, very fast, not a lotta float tho. anyways, the trip coincided with a real big NW winter type swell that was hitting real big further up the coast (ie. mavs, etal.), but i figured that down where i was it would be rideable. Packed up and headed to the regular spots, but they were totally closed out with nobody making it out. I don’t know what possessed me, but i was on a mission and determined to surf this swell. I had an idea that i’d hatched many years ago, and this was the time to try it. (more…)