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The AfterDark Grom Sessions |
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by onefinookas, as originally published on NYNJSurf.com, July 18, 2006
Surfed last night with my buddy while his kids played on the beach. I tried to get them to come tandem but they weren't feeling it, so we surf while they build sand castles made of sand. Its about pitch black when my buddies oldest starts screaming Justin I want to go surfing, I comment to my buddy, grom should have thought about that an hour ago now its pitch black. My buddy says," I can't leave hime jonesing for more surftime all night." We all know that feeling, so shoreward bound I head.
Grom on front me in back through the soup out the back and in position, impossible to see the waves until they were on top of us. First wave and second wave were failed attempts but on the third wave we get it make the drop and I stand up and yank him up. He looks at me as if to say are you sure this is the right way to do this and I tell him go to the Nose. He inches his way up to the front and about 6 inches from the tip he nails a royal hawaiin, screaming Dad look at me, we hit the shallows I jump off the back and he rides the wave right up to the beach. Dad did you see my wave, did you see my nose ride, did you, did you? Now its dark and he wants to go back out I nix the idea and he says you gonna come back tomorrow night so we can go back out, you betcha I will.
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