| Pre-Dawn Stoke |
By blueberry, as originally published on NYNJSurf.com, May 19, 2006As I was putting on my wetsuit in the dark this morning, I could hear the driving rain outside. I didn't even want to look at the ocean. I needed to go. I needed to get wet at any sleepless cost.I walked out the door and noticed the flooded sidewalks. I still can't see the full ocean from the board walk because its so dark. It doesn't matter I'm gonna get wet, I'm gonna ride a few, I'm gonna paddle.As I walk out to sea I realize it's waist high at best. That's fine, I'm going to surf this and enjoy it. I need this, I want it. Something is calling me. I can see the dark blue breath of the raising sun inviting me to play.I paddle out, then back in. I seem to be in a little rip that keeps pulling me out deeper. Floating on my board and in my mind, I wait for little more light, I think about my relationship with the ocean. Sometimes she pulls, sometimes she pushes or floats or drags.The light is perfect, blue raising bright with heavy clouds conducting the visual drama. The wind is resting and everything seems so cleaned by the rain but maybe it's just me. Maybe the rain and the ocean clean my vision and help me to see.I ride a few, in the driving rain, all by myself, flooded with a smile.
Comments (1)
 Write comment
|
Subscribe to this comment's feed
| < Prev | Next > |
|---|
