An original work by SeaCliff - as first published in 2008 on NYNJSurf.com
Twilight glistens early
Clouds and colors all redrawn
Swell window opens for a moment
Come morning she’ll be gone
9ft at 12 approaching
175 - Her angle’s near due South
My chest? It’s loud and thumping
Deep breaths escape my mouth
Suiting up and getting ready
Wind's just gone NW
“Game on!”, my friends are saying
“Game on.” No time to rest
Cold hard bite of winter
Cuts knife-like through my brain
Hard south swell is drilling
Dive deep. And bear the pain.
Silence rules the lineup
With a dark and serious tone
Heart is pumping, adrenaline rushing
Surrounded. But still alone.
Set looms on the horizon
Grey on grey, waves on sky
Black dots of my companions
They turn, I watch them fly
They’re gone - lost for seconds
Deep inside the veil
Reappearing moments later
I’m jealous of their trail
The count can’t tell the story
2 hours, 6 waves, no more
My mind beholds the glory
Of waves and winds offshore
Ice cold changeouts in distant parking lots
Talk with friends…more on the way?
Tired and stoked. Smiles and stories
Best swell ever? Best ride of the day?
We wait in anticipation
For these days so dark, so cold
To surf the winter Nor’easters
There’s surf, all else will hold.
Copyright 2008, all rights reserved. May be republished by permission.
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