The Reading Room
A Collection of Charts, Graphs, Original and Reprinted Works on Surf and Surfing in New York and New Jersey
| Memories of Surfing, 2005 |
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by looseness, as Originally Published on NYNJSurf.com, December 28, 2005 I think May 5th morning session was probably one of my best, the Ophelia swell was really good for me too {photo}, but I snapped that green/white board in the photo later in the day….ran back and grabbed another board and a Tiger Milk bar for LN who had been out for 7 hours at that point. Stuck the bar in the leg of my wetsuit and paddled out to him, he was so happy…..
Hit PR last March and scored pretty well for 3 days of my stay and ok for the rest of the week, cool thing was flying in with a brand new 2 board Fly quiver that worked great. Did Panama for two weeks in August and scored pretty much the whole time, though the Brazilians were there in force and well, don’t get me started. It was still quite a trip and I’ll update this with a photo from there later. I came back from that to find I was accepted into the Fleabung which made life even better. Started spending quite a few Weeknights out there making dawn patrols tht much easier.There was that crazy, way overhead Tuesday in November that took 3 attempts for me to get out at the break I call home, and took me over forty five cold, lonely, minutes of paddling a borrowed minigun against the drift to scratch past the hard offshores into the first wave. It was worth it. It settled down a bit after that and more of the crew came out and got some waves. LN surfed til’ he was blue, {no hoods and howling winds}, saw Jake get a few bombs, Berry too. We {a good size crew of mostly Fleas} had a fine dinner and drinks to celebrate at the Irish Circle, good times.Finally started scoring in Jersey recently, after a few sort of skunked but fun anyway trips. Managed to use my last personal day hittting overhead and hollow Jersey with Action Jackson, I took a fat 6′4″ squashtail since the report wasn’t expecting the size that showed up so I was sliding all over the place but I managed to catch and make some good waves {one fine barrell}.All in all, a damn good year of surfing and hanging with some really great people.
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