by jonathan, as originally published on NYNJSurf.com, September 7, 2006
Under cover of night I moved quickly out my front door and away from the street lights. I wait for the cars to clear, cross the road, up over the boardwalk and quickly down the steps into the welcoming sand. A perfect orb of silver shone down and reflected on the thigh high peelers that the oncoming low tide was revealing.
I moved with haste and great urgency. Unknown delights awaited and I was determined to discover them. A young couple sat on the jetty, but was not alarmed by my sudden appearance or my quick movements. I had 9'6" worth of explanation under my arm.
Like a seal I slipped into the water. I tried to stay low and minimize my splashing to keep from drawing too much attention. A quick paddle out and I sat up to survey my first true night surf experience... I laughed out loud at the beauty of it all. Perfect little peelers all to myself and no one to thank for it but the moon and the dark and mysterious water all around me.
For two hours I paddled into perfection. Glassy faces that were easy to spot by the nearly blinding moonlight reflection. Every so often a plane would fly over on it's approach to JFK. Between the full moon and the landing lights, I felt like I was on stage with spotlights all around, and every shimmering ripple on the water was someone holding up a lighter for the ballad that was playing.
At one point a halogen light shone upon me and I was startled... "Uh oh... that's it. They found me..." (Don't panic... wait a minute, it's the fisherman on the jetty just curious who the lunatic in the water at midnight is.) It was smooth sailing for the rest of the night.
Paddle... drop... bottom turn... cross step, cross step... step back... turn out... It was a rhythm unbroken by paddle battles, being dropped in on, or having to avoid the insiders. As much as surfing is a lifestyle with a real sense of community, for me, the most transcendent moments seem to happen when it's just the elements and little old me. Two sandpipers in close formation conduct a flyby... recon...
I had one of the most amazing sessions tonight... without problems or incidents. So I decided to get out while the getting was still good. There will be other full moons and I don't want to get greedy and ruin it down the line by blowing my cover. So just as stealthily, I return... over the boardwalk, across the street and back inside my front door where a warm bed awaits.
Tonight I am truly thankful as I lay my head to my pillow satisfied... with saltwater in my nose.
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