LOVE TO TALK SURF? So do we!! CLICK HERE!
| First Wave |
|
An original work by SeaCliff - as first published December 27, 2008 on NYNJSurf.com First Wave Summer sun Old beat up board, dirty with old wax Looks so easy from the beach Hard to paddle, harder to sit Surfers all around stand so easy, glide so free Paddle, paddle harder, try and stand How could something so frustrating, so hard, feel so good? Hours later, still at it, won’t give up, can’t give up! Then it happened, that amazing feeling, standing, riding Needing to do it again!! So incredible, so addictive It all began with that First Wave
Christmas day, 12 years old First new board glistening in the early morning light Last summer at the shore, so much fun on that old beater Friends all around laughing and smiling and joking Swapping waves and crashing and learning Sunburns and rashes, not stopping to eat Next summer, still so far away, but so much promise It will be so much better, so good Cant wait for school to end Cant wait for that first trip, that first chance, that First Wave
Hurricane pulses on the horizon They’ll be here by tomorrow’s dawn Heart is pounding in anticipation Night falls, but sleep comes with a struggle Thru the evening, in the middle of the night Thoughts of swells past come back to life Each one burned in memory, but how will this one compare? The new day breaks and the swell has arrived Big and clean and beautiful to behold Can’t wait to suit up, can’t wait to get ready, and feel the power of that First Wave
Heat draws are in, schedule is posted Surrounded by friends, all momentary foes Forecast calls for onshores but for now its light side Delivering textured smooth waves as the first round heats run Jokes and smiles break the tension, but everyone is looking to advance No one wants an early exit, especially not the sponsors Watching the peak, planning some strategy and thinking Thinking about positioning, about the competition, and scores Colors pulled on and hearts beating harder now, paddling out Each surfer knowing it all starts with that First Wave
Life is busy, kids in school, work is relentless Hurry here and hurry there, but memories run deep At the beach, down the shore, watching kids on boards Trying to ignore the echoes, but they grow louder instead of fading “There’s guys my age, I could still do this” I must be crazy Credit card swipe – and my fate is sealed, no turning back New board, new leash, fresh wax, older me Nervous energy fills the brain, just a few more miles to the beach Board tucked under the arm, trying to be casual But the new board and nervous look give it all away In the water, paddling out and it all comes rushing back A new echo floods my head “How could I have ever stayed away??” It’s stronger than ever, deep in my soul – I’m paddling now Never going to stop again Going to ride every one like it’s my First Wave
55 years since that day as a young man So many swells, so many waves have come and gone Yet the memory of that day, the friends, of the board still deeply alive All part of that enduring, everlasting connection Born from rides on early morning glass on summer days And hurricane swells and winter nor’easters Cut deep in the soul forever It was early in August when fate lent a hand A chance visit, a week’s stay that changed everything Every day thereafter the love affair continued Yet one thing remained constant through seasons, through the years, Through arrivals and passings and landmark events The smell of the ocean, the salt in the air, the anticipation kept calling The swell is up today, and once again it’s time to pull on the suit Take the board off the rack It’s time once again to be born again and ride that First Wave
Copyright 2008, all rights reserved. May be republished by permission. Comments (0)
 Write comment
|
Subscribe to this comment's feed
| Next > |
|---|
