|
Last Man Out
an original work by Ray G, as first published on NYNJSurf.com in 2007.
crisp afternoon sunshine
lemon yellow sparkles
in a blue sky dream day
sun setting on golden waves
last man out... |
A Brush with Death and a God
OK, here is the deal. It is actually so well etched in my mind I only needed to think about (and feel) the day and it all started filling in pretty well. So sit back brothers and sisters we are going surf tripping to SoCal…
|
|
The Hold Down
an original work by SeaCliff as first published on NYNJSurf.com in 2006.
Time.
Time to contemplate.
A few moments, a handful of seconds. Time to think. |
by jonathan, as originally published on NYNJSurf.com, September 7, 2006
Under cover of night I moved quickly out my front door and away from the street lights. I wait for the cars to clear, cross the road, up over the boardwalk and quickly down the steps into the welcoming sand. A perfect orb of silver shone down and reflected on the thigh high peelers that the oncoming low tide was revealing.
|
By blueberry, as originally published on NYNJSurf.com, May 19, 2006
As I was putting on my wetsuit in the dark this morning, I could hear the driving rain outside. I didn't even want to look at the ocean. I needed to go. I needed to get wet at any sleepless cost.
I walked out the door and noticed the flooded sidewalks. I still can't see the full ocean from the board walk because its so dark. It doesn't matter I'm gonna get wet, I'm gonna ride a few, I'm gonna paddle. |
It was around thanksgiving prolly about 7-8 yrs ago and I flew out to visit my old man in central cali. He was tied up at work this one day and i had brought a board. It was a 6'8" byrne supa narrow rounded pin, very fast, not a lotta float tho. anyways, the trip coincided with a real big NW winter type swell that was hitting real big further up the coast (ie. mavs, etal.), but i figured that down where i was it would be rideable. Packed up and headed to the regular spots, but they were totally closed out with nobody making it out. I don't know what possessed me, but i was on a mission and determined to surf this swell. I had an idea that i'd hatched many years ago, and this was the time to try it.
|
Young Sea, by Carl Sandburg, 1916
The sea is never still.
It pounds on the shore
Restless as a young heart,
Hunting.
The sea speaks
And only the stormy hearts
Know what it says:
It is the face of a rough mother speaking. |
|
by ez_ed, as originally published on NYNJSurf.com, January 29, 2006
Pulled into a near empty lot at daybreak. The earliest glimmer of sunlight reflected off the glassy darkness of the bay. A lone figure with dog surveys the scene over a mug of coffee. I peel off my sweatshirt, grab the vipers and jog across the lawn past the Eddie Aikau memorial and across the cool deep sand to warm up my body.
|
|
|
by onefinookas, as originally published on NYNJSurf.com, July 18, 2006
Surfed last night with my buddy while his kids played on the beach. I tried to get them to come tandem but they weren't feeling it, so we surf while they build sand castles made of sand. Its about pitch black when my buddies oldest starts screaming Justin I want to go surfing, I comment to my buddy, grom should have thought about that an hour ago now its pitch black. My buddy says," I can't leave hime jonesing for more surftime all night." We all know that feeling, so shoreward bound I head.
|
|
|
by Crackie Onassis, Originally published in 2005.
A few weeks ago, I noticed that a large area delamination on the deck of my CooperFish NoseDevil had developed in between the pinline & stringer. The origin of “the delam” is still a mystery, but it was bad. Justin(Onefin) said that the Coop didn’t like heat, and a few days after an early June heat wave, there was a 3 foot long bubble as loose as a drum head on the deck. It was shaped like the mirror image of the Puma sneaker logo only two feet from the trademark and expanded towards the right rail. Needless to say, I was bummed and thought about how it happened, if I could surf it, and how I would get it fixed. |
|
|
by looseness, as Originally Published on NYNJSurf.com, December 28, 2005
I think May 5th morning session was probably one of my best, the Ophelia swell was really good for me too {photo}, but I snapped that green/white board in the photo later in the day….ran back and grabbed another board and a Tiger Milk bar for LN who had been out for 7 hours at that point. Stuck the bar in the leg of my wetsuit and paddled out to him, he was so happy…..
|
|
|
