New Jersey Surf and New York Surf Information - Surfing NY NJ! - NYNJSurf.com

Quote courtesy of surfnstalk, as posted on NYNJSurf.com.

“But a diversion the most common is upon the water, where there is a very great sea, and surf breaking on the shore. The men sometimes 20 or 30 go without the swell of the surf, & lay themselves flat upon an oval piece of plank about their size and breadth, they keep their legs close on top of it, & their arms are us’d to guide the plank, they wait the time of the greatest swell that sets on shore, & altogether push forward with their arms to keep on it’s top, it sends them in with a most astonishing velocity, & the great art is to guide the plank so as always to keep it in a proper direction on the top of the swell…..”